openglock34

ok on to plan B then. which powder would you reccomend that i get. i know that vihta vouri makes good powder i also hear it is one of the more expensive. knowing what kind of loads i am looking for what would you suggest and where can i buy some at at decent deal?

thanks alot, that is exactly what i was looking for. for what its worth i was told from a friend that the powder i am using is not titegroup it is just in a titegroup container (it came from him) so i will have to find out from him exactly what it is before i say things im not sure of. from what i hear from you all its good its not tite group as you say titegroup is a faster burning powder that i do not want.

thank you for the useful info. i think that i will back off ten to be safe. the only reason i am starting with 7.5 is because someone at the range i shoot at shoots an open glock with 8+ grains but he is using 124 grain bullets and not 115. so leading to my next question. what is the difference say with 7.5 grains in a 115 gr bullet as opposed to the same load in a 124 gr bullet. is there more pressure in either of the rounds. does the 115 gr have more velocity because it is a lighter bullet? is it more dangerous to put the same load that you would use for a 124gr bullet in a round using a 115gr? sorry if i may sound a little slow here but i am just starting reloading for my open gn and want to get started the right way. maybe dangerous isnt the best word, does it have the potential to be more dangerous i guess. i hope you guys know what i mean because i have the tendency to know what i want to say but not be able to say what im thinking.

i am using a glock 34 open gun, kkm barrel with 3 hybrid ports and a 3 port titanium comp. i just recently got a dillon 550 and started reloading. i was given some 115 gr bullets and am using tite group powder. as starting data i was thinking of going with 7.5 gr and the 115 gr bullet and an oal of 1.17 does anyone know if this will blow up my gun because of excessive pressure, or if i need to go with the 124 grain only. i will usually be using 124 grain but the 115 grains i recieved for free. what do you think?

unless you are military, i personally think it is kind of ugly, and myself being in the military i have enough things that are "olive drab green" and do not need my glock to be green as well.

trust me i would prefer to go with the caspian. but they only make it for the 17 in 9mm which i do like, but alot of good that does me if they supposedly wont have one until spring..maybe. so thats why i decided just to go wtih my stock 34 slide and do what i can do to it

ive used it, it works great it is a small cylinder shaped aluminum piece in black or silver that slides into your rear sight slot (to either left or right side) it sticks straight out the side. the only thing i would have liked to see on it though is maybe a 45 degree angle upwards like other slide rackers so it is less obtrusive, it can get hung up on this at times

i figure some of you may be able to assist in this matter. since i found that a 6 port lwd barrel does not shoot nearly flat enough to be truely competative with the fully comped sti's with hybrid ports. i am going to send my 34 to brian hawley experimentalmachining.com and he is going to build me the kkm match barrel with a titanium comp as well as hybrid ports. while it is there i am going to have him lighten the slide and then get it chromed for beautification purposes. i have heard that a factory lightened slide on the glock can break. where and how does it break and does anyone have any suggestions on how i should ask to have it lightened (besides the huge hole in the factory 34 slide top) also is anyone particuarly an expert in how i should have my comp designed and how many hybrid ports i should use. i want it to be one of the flattest shooting glocks to date, and i want to have it all done at once instead of sending it back and forth ten times. so hopefully with your oppinions i will be able to give brian a good idea of what i want. im sure he will have many ideas already because i have heard really good about his work. all i knwo is that i want a nice light fast slide and i do not want the comp too long because the 34 is already long enough as it is so i dont need an additional 3 inches added to the end. 1 idea i may go with for a comp is theo carters glock 17 (can be seen in galery) with the 3 ports going from larger to smaller holes. either way....ive rambled on more then enough and the average person would have lost interest after line 6 but any ideas at all for things i can have done to my 34 while its at brians shop would be appreciated. shawn

this is all great info. i thought about having the tenifer bead blasted off but the gun is going to brian hawley first week of january and he is going to have the slide just hard chromed. so my glock wont be the ugly duckling in the 1911 fashion show called ipsc.

if you are shooting major loads the slide will not go back into battery i have a glock 34 and when i shoot major loads i need to use a 15lb spring because the 13 will not push the slide back into battery. even with factory loads i wouldnt reccomend a 13 lb spring unless you have a ported or compensated barrel, i would stick with 15lb or so.

hello fellow glockers, ive once again returned for guidance. i have my open glock 34 (no sh@! huh) and i dont necesarrily want to hard chrome the slide. i thought about getting it powdercoated silver to match all my other do dads, slide rack, carver mount, soon to arrive comp etc. has anyone ever heard of this being done. will it work ok..and what do i need to do? do i need to just remove all the internals. extractor firing pin plunger etc. any guidance is needed thanks .. shawn

heres a tip someone showed me put the spring on the guide rod..compress the spring enough so you can grip the guide rod just above the compressed spring with a pair of pliers (leatherman, channel lock, it doesnt really matter) just make sure you grip it low enough to still thread the screw on. it works great for removing the spring again as well.. someone showed me this trick and it was definately a light bulb going on.

THIS IS JUST MORE OF AN FYI POSTING..I THOUGHT IT WOULD BE INTERESTING IF SOMEONE MADE A SLIDE RACKER SPECIFICALLY FOR THE GLOCK THAT WOULD UTILIZE THE FACTORY REAR SIGHT SLOT AND BE HELD FIRMLY IN PLACE WITH A SET SCREW...WELL SOMEONE WAS LISTENING..TOM NOVAK MAKES THEM AND SELLS THEM FOR $30.00 THEY ARE IN BLACK OR ALUMINUM FINISH AND SLIDE INTO THE REAR SIGHT OPENING AND ARE HELD IN PLACE WITH A SET SCREW..WHEN MINE ARRIVES I WILL POST SOMETHING ON HOW IT LOOKS/WORKS.. HIS SIGHT IS WWW.HANDGUNNEROUTLET.COM damn this sounds like more of an infomercial...someone should be paying me for this advertisement.

mad scientist.... its like you talked my gun into working..i took the mount and moved it back so now the only thing covering the ports is the blast shield and that is over the first 2 ports, but not a major deal i dont think because it doesnt completely stop the gas from escaping, it just redirects it..also i took my 14lb wolff spring and took 1 coil off of it to start and for some reason at last nights match it just worked..i cant explain why, it just did. the only problem which didnt bother me was that only on the 4th and final stage of fire after my first mag change did the slide lock to the rear. the other times it did not. but that is the least of my worries. i also tried before the match using major power factor bullets with the 14 lb spring..and nothing..the spring was too light, it would chamber a round but not go fully into battery, and therefor would not even fire (trigger wouldnt pull) so i put the factory spring setup up back in with major power factor and it worked like a charm..hell i think i might be onto something here. this forum has given my 34 more progress in two days then i have made in a month. i appreciate all of your help.. call me greedy but i am debating a compensated kkm barrel with one of brian hawleys setups..but i wonder if that is just getting greedy because what i have now seems to work and shoot flat..with the major power factor there is a LARGE increase in muzzle rise..not sure a comp would even be better then the 6 ports im using now..oh well i think i like the project aspect of it, it gives me something to do by never settling with just one thing or project...one last note..anyone know or developed a slide racker that would maybe slide into the rear sight mount and be held in place by a simple set screw threaded right down through the top of it? if it does exist id like one.. if it doesnt i wish i had a cnc machine and a background in engineering. thanks for all your help, shawn

for now i am using factory 10 round magazines nothing special..until it functions i am not going to bring it to an offical ipsc match..at which point i will be using factory high caps with +5 extensions..but for now its just the factory..it doesnt work at all with winchester 115gn..but i think its obvious why..tonight i am going to a local match and will be using reloaded ammo that another member theo uses for his glock 17 to make major..not exactly sure the particulars on this round but i know it works in his comped 17

http://us.f2.yahoofs.com/users/4192bf69zb5...htr9kBB24OMQ.s4 im trying to insert the photo so you can just view it without going anywhere, however computers are not my specialty..ive checked this link and it should open a photo of my glock..when you say three pin im not sure what you mean..it is a brand new 34 not even 3 months old. and it has the block pin, trigger pin, and the pin that holds the ejector/trigger housing..so there are three pins if thats what you mean.

here is a picture of my glock if it helps anyone..http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/shawnyballs/detail?.dir=45e4&.dnm=2cba.jpg the picture is pretty blurry but you can get the idea..the cmore sits about 1/8" above the slide all this is great advice..i will shoot major power factor because that definately does help..does anyone have a recomendation on barrel setup? i will do a kkm..but should i go with a comp. i want the least complications possible..when the mad scientist says play with power factor at own risk..what does that mean...will the gun not function? blow up..not sure what he meant by that im definately curious..OR..should i just call this glock a lost call..make it a limited 10 and just buy a glock 17 like everyone else and start over..

yes that is the exact barrel im using..its ok, nothing special was going to be temporary until i bought a caspian slide and turned my 34 into a 34 with a 17 upper kkm barrel etc but there will be no caspian 17 slides made until spring per caspian..so ive been reinspired to make my 34 work..i will change the barrel to a kkm with comp once i am for certain i can get a setup that will work..i did slide back the cmore mount and mill new holes in it so it sits back even with the rear of my slide..now none of the ported gas hits the base of the mount. that seems to do a hair..oh well its getting closer..it works with real hot ammo thoug, i dont have the specs on it because i dont load it..another forum member theo loads them for his comped 17..but until then ill shoot his loads and wait for barrel advice..ill include pics later so everyone can see what im talking about

the spring im currently using is a wolf 14# on a stainless guide rod (wolf is junk, i know ive heard) and i used someone elses ismi 13# to see if it worked..not much better..maybe a 12#? eh who knows

thanks for the info..hopefully mr nagel will grace me with his presense because i could definately use a mad scientist..as for the slide locking back..i think i may have stated the problem wrong...the slide doesnt lock back at all..as in not enough pressure to fully send the slide to the rear and chamber a new round sometimes..it will half feed a round into the chamber (as in it will not go all the way to the rear and push the round into the chamber..it cathches the rear of it not the lip and only half feeds it in..so the bottom of the round is touching the magazine and the tip is up the feed ramp) but i think that is just not a hot enough load..who knows..thanks for all your help

all you have to do is remove the metal ejector..heat it up and pound it flat till it extends just about an 1/8" and if you want to get real crazy lower your ejection port about 1/10" (any machine shop will do it around $40.00) that will shoot the brass straight out the side of the glock every time.

i own a glock 34 with stainless guide rod, 14lb spring, carver/cmore combo, 6 port barrel (2 extend beyond slide) and with anything other then HOTTTTTT ammo it will not even eject, nor will it chamber a new round.. also if you do a carver comp mount you will HAVE to lower the ejection port or it will hit the back of the cmore and drop right back into the chamber jamming it almost every single time...the glock 34 will work but mine is a work in progress and i mean alot of WORK

this is my first time posting here. i own a glock 34 that i have been trying to build as an open gun for a while now.. what i have done so far is the ACC magwell from top glock, trigger overtravel stop from lone wolf, lone wolf 6 port stainless barrel, carver competition c-more mount, cmore sight, stainless guide rod, 14 lb spring, extended ejector, lowered ejection port, and the normal stuff that comes with the 34 (3.5 lb trigger, extended mag release,extended slide catch) im having problems with the slide locking back which is probably because im dumping too much gas and not using a hot enough round, and i was having problems with ejection which was fixed with the ejector and the lowered port.. i was going to give up and make it a glock 17 with a caspian slide, but they are not available till spring so i will try to make this glock function even though it is rare to see an open 34. i want to get rid of the barrel and do a comp and lighten the slide to help it eject a little better. but i need advice. does anyone know of or own a glock 34 open gun that functions perfect? if so how did they do it could you give me some hints? also does anyone make a slide racker for a glock to utilize the rear sight opening? thank you for whatever info you have