syme71

This is true. In speaking with the bullets vendors, manufacturers and other more experienced reloaders - they all say to load using the lead bullet recipes since the plating is softer than a jacketed bullet. The other consistent message I got was never to use magnum loads. I load mine using 180gr/3.5gr TG/1.130 OAL recipe w/15# spring on G35w/KKM. I've gone through 1500 rounds of plated without any issues.

I just started reloading as well. Would also suggest looking at plated bullets. I've tried some Rainier and Frontier plated. Both brands are significantly cheaper than the name brand stuff like Hornady and Speer. Haven't seen much of a difference in accuracy and I like that the whole bullet is encased in copper.

yes, I just bought one over the Holidays. It has the older type slide with the chevrons milled in the bottom. I've had a bunch of problems with the slide. Now that I've been using some Liquid Wrench w/PTFE, no more issues.

Raz, where is Solomon's located? I actually made the trip out to T&T (www.tntreloading.com). Very well stocked on the basic necessities. I only wish they carried VV powders. I loaded up on supplies and the trip wasn't all that bad - a little over an hour in each direction from Northern NJ. I just tried their Frontier plated and had pretty good results with 3.5gr of TG. Price isn't bad at $55/thousand in .40

Flex, One other question. Since this is the first batch I've ever reloaded in my life, I'm assuming that it's normal to have a variance +/- .003 in OAL due to the variables in bullets? Does this much difference in OAL have a great effect on fps? Also, do you run the slightly longer OAL for better bullet to rifling contact on the KKM? Thanks again.

TD, Flex, I did notice that the majority of the brass was in laying in front of me (about 90%) when I went to clean up. I didn't get the sense it was ejecting far but didn't pay attention. I hope to make it back to the range this week and I'll watch for how far the brass is ejecting. So if I understand this correctly, if brass is ejecting 3-5 feet, that means the load has enough "kick" that stovepiping is less likely to happen. I have watched others in the club that I started shooting at and have wondered how close to the limit they are running their gun with brass just barely ejecting out of the port! Thanks guys.

I just started reloading, and not having access to a chronograph, decided to use one of the lighter loads to play it safe. I'm using 3.5 grs of Titegroup, loaded to 1.126 OAL. I loaded 100 rounds today and tested at the range. All 100 functioned flawlessy and was noticeably more accurate than the factory loads I have been accustomed to. I have the stock spring on my gun. Since I'm using such a light load, will going with a lighter spring do anything? Or should I leave it alone and just shoot?

Finally got everything setup and started reloading today on my new 550. What do you do when you're done and you have powder remaining in the measure. I'm assuming that it's bad practice to leave it there so what's the easiest way to get it back into the storage container. I did it the hard way - one pull at a time.

I have the roller handle on my new 550. I tried the ball handle but didn't like the ergonmics. As much as everyone here respects Dillon, I think they charge a little too much for the handle and the various accessories. They should make it a stock item. I did buy them from Brian. Service was topnotch.

this sounds like the ticket. thanks for the info folks.

Anyone shooting a KKM barrel in a G35. What OAL are you using?

Yep, getting ready for this year's IPSC season.

Newbie question... In reading through this forum and in the reloading manuals I have, it seems the recommended process is to: 1. Tumble with walnut 2. Decap/size 3. Tumble with corn cob 4. Reload Is it better to tumble twice? I noticed when I tumbled my first batch of brass and then decapped them, there were some discoloration and some residue in the primer pocket. Reason I ask is just decapping on an RL500 is a major pain. You have to manually index past the other stations so the casing doesn't get belled or tapered.

Is it okay to store my powder and primers in an unheated garage? Temperature in the garage usually hovers around 35 F during the winter.

Ditto for me. I just mounted my new 550 w/strong mount on a bench I just built. I have it set back from the edge 2-1/2 inches without any issues. Plenty of clearance when cycling with the roller handle. Not sure if the 30" you're referred to was height or depth? I built my bench 35" high (same as standard kitchen counter). I find it a more comfortable height to work with while standing or sitting on a bar stool. 2x6s might be overkill. I just built a 35"x72" bench out of 2x4s. I bought a laminated kitchen counter top at home depot for $50. It's real solid (me and two of my other 200+ lb friends where jumping on it to settle a bet). I just doubled up on the legs and put a 3/4 board under the counter top. Lag screws and bolts throughout.

just an update. I bought the Berry's kit (tumbler, rotary sifter, corn cob amd polish). Tumbler is very quiet. Rubber feet on the bottom do a good job of absorbing vibrations. Had it running on my new workbench and nothing else was rattling. I also appreciate the clear lid and screw knob. It's not as heavy as other tumblers I've handled so I'm a little concerned on how heavy duty the motor really is. The rotary tumbler is nice because it's all enclosed, cuts down on the dust when sifting. Bad part is the plastic hinges are flimsy. I was able to clean ~800 .40 cases.

what's the danger with flourescent lights? also, do the decapped (used) primers pose any danger? if so, what methods do you use to dispose of them safely? They break easy. I have some plastic sleeves (light condoms) on the tubes over my bench. Got them at Home Depot. Gun springs can break them too. Protection can't hurt. thanks for the tip on the bulb sleeves. I think I'll try and go one step further and see if I can put a plexiglass cover. this forum is a great resource.

what's the danger with flourescent lights? also, do the decapped (used) primers pose any danger? if so, what methods do you use to dispose of them safely?

forgive my ignorance folks. I'm a new to all this. I've read as much as I can and wanted to make sure I understand what to do in any of the unforseen siutations I'm sure will come up once I get started (still waiting for a couple of parts to arrive).

I'm reading through all the reloading manuals I bought (inlcuding the one included with the Dillon I just bought). They all state never to decap a live primer for obvious reasons. My question is, if you make a mistake in seating a primer -either too high or low, how do you get it out?

I got some of this, and it is a solid deal. $12/thou delivered to my door. There was a signifigant amount of FED NT in it. No problemo for the 1050, but some of you would freak. How do you distinguish an NT casing? Is it marked with FED NT on it or any other special marking? Thanks

Midway sells a portable stand...not sure how much room you have in the RV but this might work. http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/155024 Swing by northern NJ if you can, need someone to teach me how to reload.

Thanks for th tip on T&T. They're ~70 miles away. I can definitely swing the occasional drive out to them for supplies. Anyone ever try their house brand 180 FMJ bullet? Seems reasonable at $55.50 per thousand.

rice huh? I'm of asian descent so I have always have a supply in the house. I know we purchase the premium stuff for $12 - 25lb bag. The lower grade rice is $8 - $25lb bag. What is rice comparable to? walnut or corn?

I'm getting geared up to start reloading and wanted to know where most of you get your supplies. I live in NJ and the gun shops around here don't cater to reloaders much so I have to go the mail order route for most of my supplies. Where's the best (cheapest) place to get the following: Media (walnut and corn) Bullets Primers Powder Thanks!