wheelie
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Posts posted by wheelie
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How are the heavy bullets in short colt brass?
Any problems with the taper of the case?
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I've been shooting the Hensley & Gibbs #34 round nose 230 grain in my 625.
What are you using in your 929 or 627?
Nose shape and weight, please and thanks in advance.
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Maybe this was all a ploy by ICORE to drop the price of 625's.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Conspiracy.
Where's my tinfoil hat?
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I hate to feel like the guys shooting six-shot major need to shop for six round neutral classifiers in order to remain competitive. Back when my work/life schedule allowed for more dry fire and reloading practice, I was rewarded with getting B Class. Now, I feel like there might be a little more than just hard work that can get in the way.
The new regime puts an additional burden on the six shot shooter - as if it wasn't hard enough already. But buying a new revolver and associated gear fixes that. Its only money.
The only good point is that it normalizes the revolver class with the rest of the classes so that 8 shot arrays or positions work the same for all (sorta). All who remain, that is - after the six shooters are relegated to other uses.
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Its what happens when things are not thought out completely.
And at this point what does it really matter? (to paraphrase an infamous politician)
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I'd rather have the .38 Super than the 9mm. One thousand pieces of brass would be near a lifetime supply for the gun, no gunsmithing cost at all. Just go shoot it.
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Way back, I used SR4756 for absolute full power loads. I think that powder is being discontinued this year, so maybe you don't want to go there. But there are others that you be able to use for similar to factory ammo. I'd look at an older reloading manual for common powders like Unique, Blue Dot, and such. that should give you a feel for where to begin safely.
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Yep. I could probably do it, but with only a buzzbox stick welder or OA at my place, that won't fly.
I don't have anyone here local that I'd trust to weld it.
Sometimes packing it up and sending it away is easier.
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Thanks, I wrote Jim asking about this.
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I have a Kart barrel I over-cut while fitting and would like to have the legs or bottom lugs welded. Who should I send it to?
Thanks in advance.
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Whatever you pick needs to work 100% every single time, and you personally need to be able to use it effectively. Your ability to make bad things stop immediately with no collateral damage is paramount. After that there aren't really any more questions to ask.
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Super HAND. Red and very stingy.
Grips cracked but no splinters -- fortunately.
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Be careful.
Back when dinosaurs roamed the earth and I shot .38 Super, cases that looked like that were ready to fail.
It was not pretty.
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Post some pics of fired (but not sized) brass from your gun. Measurements too if you have access to proper tools. I'm going to speculate that there are several causes that combine to give you this result. First, the load might be a bit hot. Second is a slightly large chamber and/or unsupported area at the rear. Third is your choice of brass. Any one or some combination of the three might be the problem.
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snipped.....
Why is a chromo a must vs keeping an eye out for pressure signs like I do for .38 & .357?A chronograph is not a must. It only tells you velocity, not pressure. Pressure estimation via visual inspection will be as valid as when you use the same technique when you eyeball your .38 and .357 fired brass.
Here is a thread on loading the .38 S&W (which is not much different from the Short Colt).
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?154134-Is-anyone-loading-38-S-amp-W
That might give you some direction as to suitable loads not mentioned on this forum. General direction only.
Yes , but - Isnt the whole point of working up a short colt load is to make power factor for either uspsa / icore .
No, the original poster simply wants to shoot up some bullets he has on hand. He does not compete.
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snipped.....
Why is a chromo a must vs keeping an eye out for pressure signs like I do for .38 & .357?A chronograph is not a must. It only tells you velocity, not pressure. Pressure estimation via visual inspection will be as valid as when you use the same technique when you eyeball your .38 and .357 fired brass.
Here is a thread on loading the .38 S&W (which is not much different from the Short Colt).
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?154134-Is-anyone-loading-38-S-amp-W
That might give you some direction as to suitable loads not mentioned on this forum. General direction only.
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I might make it and maybe bring another couple of shooters.
When do you think it might be held?
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That is a lot of VV310 in any barrel.
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Thanks for the responses. That video was very helpful! I think I will try an 11 with a buffer. I'm shooting Major 200gr swc and 4.5 grains of V310. Thoughts?
That's full power. You could drop down a bit and still make major.
I'd go with a 17 lb. spring. Shock buff won't hurt a thing.
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How are the barrels arranged on the 929s?
Is it a tensioned liner inside an outer shroud with muzzle nut, or is it a one piece barrel screwed tight to the frame?
I like most things about these guns but the long barrel. I'll definitely want to cut mine shorter.
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If it does not shoot pretty well with good factory ammunition, I doubt you will find a handload that works better. There is something wrong with the gun and ammo won't fix it.
The ultimate answer is to send the gun to a good 1911 gunsmith and have him either weld and re-fit the existing barrel or better, have him fit a new barrel and bushing. If that is financially feasible for you, it will be worth the money and time.
Another alternative (an maybe the best) is to call Springfield and talk to them about it. There is no reason for it to shoot so poorly. If its new and does not work correctly, they should fix it for you.
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Ruger for sure (on the Security Six frame) and I think S&W (K frames) made 9mm revolvers. You might look for one of those. It could be cheaper than building one.
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Its the taper of the case wall that causes what you are seeing. If it fits in the gun it is merely cosmetic.
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Its not all that hard with good equipment.
And it was worth it the last couple of years when other folks had trouble getting bullets and I did not.
Revolver bullet shape?
in Revolver Forum
Posted
Interesting.
I was thinking of something similar.