bigdawgbeav
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Posts posted by bigdawgbeav
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Thank you @DavidSeavey for the Dan Sierpina in. Reached out to him to pick his brain and realized that I might have been over-thinking the idea of adding extra hardware. If someone wants to steal the case and break it open, some added latches aren't going to stop that. This solution really looks good based on how much you can fit in the case and that it doesn't look like you are flying with firearms. Just don't plaster it with a bunch of stickers...
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11 hours ago, DavidSeavey said:
that's essentially what i do for my 3gun travel, i got the idea from Dan Sierpina who's been traveling that way for a decades. i use the straight body skb golf shell with a 48" soft bag for the 2 long guns and 3 other pockets for pistol and essential mags, like cz czechmate mags since nobody else will have them to borrow. comes in just under 50 pounds too, with a dissident kl12 shotgun and 9.5 pound ar. i exchanged all the latches to keyed latches, and i lock the zippers inside with non tsa locks, though i've been thinking of building external riveted panels for keyed locks outside instead.
two things i've learned doing it is that the bottom flat end wants some reinforcement so i made a wooden plate that sits flat against it, and even though it's rather incognito through an airport compared to a pelican case, it can be TOO incognito like the time some a-hat grabbed it from oversize bag area and started walking away thinking it was his golf bag, thank god i was right there. it's got a few small but obvious stickers adorning it now.
Glad to hear some experience. I went with the case I have above simply because it was used and got it off Craigslist. Didn't see the need to buy a brand new case, although the new cases have the bump out on the lid. But the one above I can still fit 3 rifle cases, pistol case as well as ammo and mags. But makes it really heavy. When traveling by car, that's fine. When I'm ready to fly I'm going to have to make some adjustments.
Another reason for going with the older style is that the new cases have TSA locks. So it's bad enough that you can easily get the latch keys online (that's what I had to do), but at least the TSA can't open it without forcing it. Also why I'm looking at adding padlock hasps to the exterior with bolts instead of screws.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-6-1-2-in-Zinc-Plated-Hinge-Safety-Hasp-20267/204727561
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So next year I'm likely going to be flying to CMP for the WSSC (this past year I drove the 14 hours). Since I'm hoping to get in 3 or 4 guns I was wondering if anyone else has flown with their rifle or pistol bags in a hard-sided golf bag case? To me it makes more sense since the guns are still in the cases that I plan on taking to the range. If you have done this, did you add extra padlocks to the outside of the case since the keys for these cases can be ordered online?
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I have the XLW and love it.
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I have had no issues with using the Tandemkross trigger kit for the PC Carbine. Crisp and light.
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As a Steel Challenge shooter I'm partial to coated vs plated (even if the same price). Been stung too many times by plating or jackets coming off the plates.
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I am in the process of building a dedicated RFRI for next year. I am going with the Wiland setup: chassis, barrel and sights. I am using the large ghost ring mounted on the rail. I mounted mine forward on the rail as that it where it seemed to work the best for me. I tried all the way to the rear for a longer sight radius but found I was a little too inaccurate. I might switch the rear blade to a different option just to test.
For me and my style I had the rear sight as low as it would go but found myself shooting too high. Raised the front sight up so that the top of the slots were just visible. That seems to get me where I needed to be for Steel Challenge accuracy
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12 hours ago, mrvip27 said:
That's hot!
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14 hours ago, chase214 said:
Do you have the integrated comp, if so how well does it work
no, I'm using the superfeed XLW. The integrated comps are the 10/16 or the 13/16. I'm more than happy with the XLW.
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On 10/29/2021 at 9:44 PM, chase214 said:
What barrel is everyone using with the builder set
Taccom XLW... tell them it's for an AR-V and they will cut the feed ramp. And send them your bolt to have it milled for the superfeed hood
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Doing some testing with the new Taccom Air Buffer system in my AR-V:
https://rumble.com/vodeuf-taccom-air-buffer-bill-drill.html
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Let's see if this works:
https://rumble.com/vodepf-taccom-air-buffer-system-35-round-mag-dump.html
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If you are on FB and in the PCC Raceguns group I posted a few videos there. Can't post here as they are too big.
My overall impressions: I was faster on the Bill Drill with the Air Buffer than than the 3-Stage. Is that conclusive, no, but it felt faster and smoother with the new system. Recoil felt marginally less, but recoil is relative to the shooter and the ammo. I did test some factory ammo that runs at 132pf and it felt fine with either system. My normal load of approximately 115pf (steel challenge) felt good and seemed like there was less dot bounce. I even tested an experimental load that is probably closer to 100pf and it was like night and day.
I did not take the weight out of the bolt, don't have to, but you can. And the weight of this new system in 1.2oz lighter than the 3-Stage. If you are running an AR-V like I am, the LRBHO still works with this system. It does take a bit more muscle on the charging handle to get the bolt past the bolt stop to manually lock it open.
I have not taken it to a competition yet for a real world test, but I'm certain it will perform splendedly.
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17 hours ago, jerseyglock said:
I saw your video on FB and would like to shoot it. Which PA match are you going next?
I'm pretty much done for the season. Although there is a charity match at Guthsville I MIGHT go to. But not certain
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Taccom has released a new 3-Stage Air Buffer system: https://taccom3g.com/product/pcc-3-stage-air-cushion-recoil-system-ar-9mm/ I was fortunate to get one and will post test results later this week.
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10 hours ago, egd5 said:
I have two 40 and two 30 rd ets mags and they work fine for me. I've had the 40's for a couple of years or so and the 30's for about a year. I usually shoot at least three matches of some kind every month.
The same here, the big sticks work, but haven't played with their lower offerings.
Thanks for all the info guys, I appreciate it.
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14 minutes ago, zzt said:
The first thing I would do is check out the ETS 10 round mags. I've never used the 10s, but their other mags hold what they claim and they are reloadbale. For example, I have three ETS 40 round mags I use for falling steel matches. Loaded to 40 they are easily reloadable. In fact, I can get 41 in each of them. They also engage much more securely than Glock mags. They also sit a tad higher in my Leadstar and feed better than the Glocks.
I would not use the Glock 10 round mags. Talk to Kurt about them before you decide. He uses them for NJ and has complained about them. When I got rid of the Glock mags I wanted to buy ETS 10 rounders. They were more expensive than the 17s and they were backordered. So I went with six 17 rounders and only load to ten.
I forgot what you shoot. If it is a straight blowback the mags are going to get very dirty, very quickly. A pinned mag can become a cleaning nightmare depending on how the pinning is done. My ETS mags are clear. After three matches at Pricetown I can no longer see the top 3 or 4 rounds in the mag. It's dirty farther down, but not as bad.
I'm looking to ditch my ETS 40-rounders and just going with the 17s and load to 10 for my PC Carbine. I guess I really shouldn't worry too much about NJ/NY/MD matches... Just don't get pulled over and give them a reason to search the car.
After shooting my PC Carbine this weekend I realized just how heavy it is with a fully loaded mag. Going to change that up this winter and go with the "change mags every string" method.
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I'm going to be picking up some new mags and since I only shoot Steel Challenge I was considering just picking up some pinned 10-rounders. I know those seems weird, but it would reduce risk when traveling through or shooting in the restricted states that surround my home state of Pennsylvania.
Or should I just get regular mags and not sweat it?
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On 10/17/2021 at 3:18 PM, zzt said:
22LR bullets, whether lubed lead or copper washed, spew vaporized lead when they exit the muzzle. That lead condenses on the first cool thing it hits. That's why 22 comps gunk up so quickly. In a shrouded barrel that vapor condenses on the shroud just in front of the muzzle. It continues to build up and add weight. That's why Taccom offers a rotary scraping tool to allow you to remove it. Wiland planned to the last time I talked to them. I don't know if they ever followed through. On the Raptor barrel there is noting in front of the barrel, so there is nothing for lead to collect on (except if you add a comp).
The Taccom lead cutting tool works in the Wiland barrel.
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Anyone else already started on their calendar of matches they are looking to attend next year? I actually started on mine a couple of months ago. Still need to finish 2021 and already looking to the future. Not keeping my mind on where I am, what I am doing...
Partial wish list for 2022:
April - World Speed Shoot
May - Area 8
June - Area 5
August - Area 7
August - Conquest of the Midwest
Sept - East Coast Steel Challenge
Oct - Ohio Steel Classic
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On 10/14/2021 at 11:18 AM, Unregistered said:
Peltor TEP-100 or TEP-200. The latter has some wireless audio transmission capabilities, but not very useful for competitive shooters (requires some neck loop to be worn).
I have use these for years now. Battery lasts all day for at least 4 years before the built-in batteries deteriorate. With skull screw tips in, I find them working well enough stand-alone with an open gun outdoors.
I have several pairs of passive custom molded plugs, and found that within 2 years or so they don't fit as well as they once did. Guess I'm still growing at 30? These are even the soft silicone ones, rather than hard plastic moulded ones.
I will echo these statements. I have been using the TEP-100 for a couple of years now. They work great paired with the foam Skull Screws. Batteries last a long time and charge quickly.
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7 hours ago, mrvip27 said:
Same here. Seem to be the best overall value imho.
I agree with you. I also have one of the PSA drop in triggers and that is also nice, but running it in my 15-22 not my PCC. Also another good value.
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#7 Grank Kunkel - Palmetto State AR-V
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I have had zero issues with my CMC 3.5# flat triggers.
Flying with Guns
in Travel, Locations, Ranges, etc.
Posted
So when flying with guns do you opt for the most direct route, non-stop or do you opt for a flight that might have a stop, plance change, etc. if it gets you in a better, easier airport? I would think that direct flights have less of a chance for lost luggage.
Here is my example: I'm looking to fly to CMP in Talladega. I have heard good things about the Birmingham airport, but for me to fly there via Southwest (my preferred) it would require a layover and plane change either in Chicago or Orlando. Whereas I can get direct, non-stop flights from Philly to ATL and then drive the hour+ to Talladega.