Honeybooboo
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Posts posted by Honeybooboo
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I've run 147g American Eagle through a stock 2 and had no issues. Just ordered some Atlanta Arms 124g because I like that they make 130pf and shoot noticeably lighter then the factory stuff like american eagle, umc, etc. Always ran great in my Glock 34.
But I'm seeing that they have an OAL of 1.145 which seems pretty long for the stock 2's. Does anybody know the OAL of the 147g American Eagle? Wondering if I'm going to have any issues.
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I've tried all of them. I like the Henning the best although I wish the checkering went all the way to the top
Me too but grip tape on the smooth grips like posted above seems like a good option.
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Kinda weird because the old style sight looks like it's on the new style frame and the new style sight is on the old style frame.
I have the new style frame with the old sight in your pic.
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I still haven't found any marketed as new style so if anybody knows of any aluminum grip panels let me know.
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I've been told that most of the grips don't quite fit right in the newer style Stock 2 frames. I was told to buy grips made for the new style. Who makes these?
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Jim bodkin just finished mine. Should have it any day. He does Stoeger's guns and seems to be the top Tanfo guy.
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You can make a Ben stock 2 by sending it to Jim Bodkin.
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They are much easier to get now so there's going to be more used ones on the market. Guys that don't like them, wanted to experiment and just try one, going to limited, whatever.
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If you feel comfortable tearing the gun down to the frame and you have patience, I would say there is not reason you shouldn't be able to swap the parts and do the polishing yourself. Especially if you have shot the gun for a little while already, you should be able to look at the action, figure out how it works, and just polish all the surfaces that rub, slide, or rotate against other surfaces. You should be able to see what is rubbing because parts that started black will now have shiny spots where they make regular contact with other parts. There are plenty of detailed threads here too, just take the time to read through them and get comfortable with the mechanism.
Also BTW, the standard CZ firing pin spring works as a great plunger spring in tanfo's if you already haven't spend the money on the Henning one. The cz part is just a lot cheaper...
Good Luck!
Probably could do it taking my time but I'd rather just have a pro do it. Went out to Bodkin today so I'm excited to get it back.
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I strongly recommend sending it off to a reputable gunsmith who knows the mechanism. It's cheaper in the long run and you're less likely to ruin the frame. Jim Bodkin does outstanding work.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/quote
Good point. I've heard good thing about Jim. Contacted him and hopefully will get it out to him soon.
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Well now I don't know if I should. This shop seems pretty legit but it seems like they do a lot of 1911 trigger jobs, slide and bushing fitting, milling and machining, etc.
The hard part is knowing what to pay attention to.
What could be butchered if you are paying attention to not changing any angles?I would be selective of whom tunes an EAA or CZ type gun..... or do it your self with the help of all the great guides posted here on this site. Just because there is a sign that says "gunsmith" over their door, doesn't mean they won't butcher your piece if they haven't worked on the type before.
What's that old saying? Mistakes are what you get from not paying attention. Experience is what you get after making mistakes, wisdom is what you get from experience. Or something along those lines.
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I would be selective of whom tunes an EAA or CZ type gun..... or do it your self with the help of all the great guides posted here on this site. Just because there is a sign that says "gunsmith" over their door, doesn't mean they won't butcher your piece if they haven't worked on the type before.
What could be butchered if you are paying attention to not changing any angles?
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I have my parts and will be going to the gunsmith tomorrow. I want to have a pro polish everything. I don't want to bubba smith anything, even though it's just polishing and putting some springs in. EGD medium mainspring and firing pin spring, henning firing pin, and an 18 or 20lb plunger spring. Interested to see what this results in with all the polishing.
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It's worth it. I have a small child. Shooting is one of the things I still get to do. It's all priorities. I don't get to do all the hobbies and things I did before a child, but shooting is something that I still have plenty of time for.
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I found the stacking sensation is reduced by polishing the hammer spring, strut, spring HOLE in the frame, as well as the holes in the hammer and the pins that hold the disco and strut. Also polish the place on the trigger bow where the disco wing is held in DA.
I've flipped and flopped on which is better, Light or wolf 13#. One thing is that the stacking with the wolf was INITIALLY worse, but after a couple thousand dry fires was the same or less than the light EG spring. Then again, I polished it inside and out...
Want to hear a "funny"? I bought some "great deal" primers. But they "no go boom" with the light, 13, 14, medium, 15, 16, or stock springs. At least not reliably. I got 85-90% at 18# hammer spring/ factory FP spring and 97-98% with a ......(drum roll please).... 22# hammer spring and the factory FP spring.
. In case you're wondering, that results in a 14.5# da trigger and a 4 1/4# SA. Yeah.... not a fan of those primers! The few percent that don't fire are random SA and DA and they don't fire even with repeated SA hits. And for those that wonder, the gun has the Titan hammer, EG sear, EG firing pin, T3 disco and the firing pin safety was removed after failing to ignite with the 14# hammer spring (it's still out). It was near 100% in thousands of rounds with CCI, Winchester and S&B primers prior to lucking in to "this great deal". Yeah.... didn't save much there, did I? lol.
What do you think I'll be at with the trigger weights with the medium springs and polishing?
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Why not get the light spring too and see if it works with the primers and ammunition you use? I'm using the light spring in combination with the Xtreme Firing Pin and it set off most of the primers out there.
Don't forget to get the matching firing pin springs.
However, if you're just shooting single action, the hammer spring does not make that big a difference if you have a good polish and lube. Actually, a stronger spring can make for a crisper SA break. The hammer spring is mostly to get a smooth DA pull.
Not sure of where there's the light springs in stock.
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Thanks. So I guess that medium isn't much lighter than stock.
The medium spring makes for a clearly noticeable lighter trigger pull than stock, IMHO. But the light spring is a breeze.
I guess I'll have to try it then and see. The medium spring combined with a 20lb plunger spring, and polishing I'm hoping to get the single action down to 3-3.5lbs.
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Im using the Wolff 14#.....love it
Mj
That was my plan but heard that the EGD springs are "better." I have the EGD medium mainspring and firing pin spring, henning firing pin and guide rod. Was going to bring my stock 2 to the gunsmith this week to have it polished up and springs put in but may have to get that wolf 14lb first if the EGD medium springs won't make much of a difference.
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Thanks. So I guess that medium isn't much lighter than stock.
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Anybody know the weight of these? Heard they are better than the Wolff because they don't stack as much but I can't find any published weights anywhere
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I have a Henning on the way. Do I need a new fpb?
Most likely not. For every pin/fpb issue, there are thousands that run flawlessly. Or don't know about the enos' forum, to ask for help. Lol
I say install yours and if you run into light strikes, go from there. I'm sure I've beat the horse on this, but the tolerances are so vast gun to gun, sometimes you need to just trial and error it. I've smith'd sp01 (non shadows) that would run on a 8.5# and some that would barely light off anything with the 13#, until I opened up the channel where the firing pin rides. Usually, with the Henning G4 FP, you can polish up the fpb enough that it's reliable, or switch to using federal primers. Running a different fpb in the sii/iii is usually a hit or miss (in my experience).
I'm going to be using the EGD medium hammer and striker springs specifically over the light springs to avoid light strike issues.
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Right but I guess my question is if the racing red is preferred to say a gray transition lens and why?
For me, the Red lens makes the fiber-optic front sight really stand out. It also creates good contrast between the brown targets, and the brown dirt background.[/quote
Cool. Thanks.
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I have a Henning on the way. Do I need a new fpb?
Glock 34-35?
in Glock
Posted
Wait you shoot a 35, but want a 34 for limited and want to switch it to 40? Why not build up the 35 for limited?
I'd do an SJC frame weight
Brass magwell
TTI base pads
Flat trigger
Would be a sweet limited glock.