dtuns
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Posts posted by dtuns
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I shot a level 2 10 stage match this weekend and just decided to clean my gun and when I pulled slide off discovered trigger bar broke. Found out hard way not the same as stock trigger bar. Put back together with stock trigge bar and trigger wouldn't release sear so I had to lock slide back and remove firing pin to get apart.
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1 hour ago, Baynewrady said:
Thanks! Me too
I’m kind of annoyed no mention of it is made in the instruction manual or their videos on YouTube. I’ll have to try and find what bragging rights had to say about it. Not sure if I have things set to where I’ll have no worries now or not.
I've got 800 rounds through mine after about 200 these four screws were loose and had a jam not seating primers cause the linear bearings slide down and priming pin was on tilt. Tighten up and back in business. If Ihave any more loose screws might take everything a part and retighten everything. Seams to be lots of people having stuff come loose like when they assembled at factory was just put together hand tight.
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13 hours ago, Baynewrady said:
Has anyone else experienced issues with the small pistol priming system on the X-10? Granted I've only had the press for about a week, but I can only load maybe a few rounds before a primer gets caught/crushed in the priming assembly and I have to stop everything, remove the priming assembly, and get the caught primer out. I tried using both Ginex and Federal Gold Medal Match with this same result.
Is your shell plate indexing lining up with swage rod and primer rod where is it getting crushed?
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3 minutes ago, m700 said:
I loaded for precision with it for a long time but then I ran out of bullets and decided to try something cheeper, xtreme, and decided from there that im not looking for 1/4" groups. Im looking to blow 200 rds with 1" groups.
25 grains of H335 under a 55 gr. I started with this making 50 for testing. Second time out I made a ladder box and went right back to 25 grains.
I'm getting just under an inch with this load and the hornady bulk 55 boat tail with canalure.
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1 hour ago, IVC said:
This has been on my mind and I can't really tell.
While "static electricity" seems like the obvious or only choice, I can't see it happening. The motor doesn't create sparks when operating normally, and it's not directly exposed to the bowl anyways. The brass is a conductor, so even if there was a way to collect some static charge and keep it while being moved into the feeder, it would discharge on contact, before I sprayed the One Shot.
It was pretty hot that day and I did open the garage doors to cool it off, but we are talking about mid-80s at the time it ignited. And the floor is concrete, I was touching all sorts of metal shelf brackets and the press as I was setting up, never had anything remotely close to a spark over the years of use.
But I also can't believe it was the new brass clinking together providing the ignition. Yet it's the only difference between 38SC and .40 that never had an issue using the same "protocol." The .40 brass is a range mix cleaned in dry tumbler so it's always "dirtyish."
If anyone has any ideas, it would be great to explore and try to replicate it. Knowledge is the key here.
Motors with brushes spark around the brushes when they run.
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1 hour ago, IHAVEGAS said:
Good info. I wonder what would have caused a spark inside a 1050 case feeder ? I didn’t think you could get a spark out of brass and plastic, static electricity?
Probably the electric motor on the feeder.
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Scary. I put cases in large ziplock spray then close and mix then open bag so they can dry
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1 hour ago, Racinready300ex said:
I've only seen those kind of numbers on those Argentina primers, not on CCI or Federal. But, I haven't really been looking either.
I did pick up a few thousand of those Argentinian primers to test but haven't tried them yet. I guess I should get around to that.
Powder valley has CCI for $69.99 and federal for $82.99 right now
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1 hour ago, Joe4d said:
yeh 9mm isnt worth loading these days
I can still load minor power factor 9MM cheaper than buying minor match ammo.
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1 hour ago, tntubalcain said:
Just received my X-10 this week and am still fine tuning the set-up. What are the options for a powder check die? I prefer one that beeps and it looks like the Double Alpha version will not work on this press.
I ordered Mark7 universal powder check I hear the DAA doesn't fit on press between other dies but the Mark 7 does..
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7 hours ago, m700 said:
One shot is fine with pistol loading. I dont think it does the job on necked cases. something lanolin/alcohol based works better for that. I had a few cans of one shot but once they were used up I stick to the DIY stuff
I use one shot on 9MM and .223 brass with zero issues.
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Anyone using one of these?
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Just pulled the trigger one.
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16 minutes ago, HesedTech said:
My next move is to ask you a few things.
- What gun are you using?
- What is the distance?
- Off a bag or prop?
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Velocity of bullet?
comments:
You will not gain much more accuracy with more expensive bullets. Yes a Tanfoglio or Shadow 2 will be more accurate than a Glock 19, but not that much different.
Since you really didn’t give a lot of detail, I’d say your group issues are OE and probably not the gun. But it could be.
Answer for you questions 1-3 are in his original post.
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4 hours ago, fmiller4 said:
I couldn't tell. The cardboard the target was stapled to was swiss cheese...
Definitely north.
The squares are 1-inch apart.
Are you shooting matches with this gun or just plinking?
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4 hours ago, fmiller4 said:
This is kind of long and wordy. My reasoning is that it’ll save time to tell as much as I can.
So, just to lay out the variables…
I’m working on a 9mm load with HP-38 (I have six pounds…) and 125gr moly-coated conical nose bullets from Summit City (cheap). I did a ladder test and found that 4.6 grains seemed to give me the tightest group at 25yds. I loaded up a batch with an OAL of 1.120 and did a sight-in (Canik TP9SFX with a Vortex red dot on sandbags) but was disappointed with the result.
I’ve been reloading for over 10 years and have never really gotten “The One” for 9mm. I originally got the HP-38 for .45 and while I’d like to switch, I’m kinda broke right now… And, since I’m stuck with the same powder/bullets, I’m not really sure what help you can give. But I’d really love to hear your what you can get from looking at my targets.
I guess my question really comes to "Is there anything I can do (oal change?) and/or am I expecting too much from a sub-$500 gun?” (which to be truthful is way more accurate than my pricier Tanfoglio Elite…)
A few things
- if you look at the bullets I’m using, the top of the cone is kind of convex, which may make teeny-weeny oal adjustments off a little (?)… maybe I should set up my loads with premium bullets and then switch to the cheap stuff?
- I do ‘plonk’ tests with the barrel and try to go with the longest oal where the round doesn’t need any coaxing to fall out when I upend it. That happens right around 1.124.
- my ultimate goal is to be able to shoot a little faster (well, a lot faster but I’ll settle for a little) so pinpoint accuracy isn’t really that important. But still...
So, attached are is one of my test targets. I thought the flyer was my fault ("operator error" and I go way back…), but now I’m wondering if that was the actual ‘circle’ and I just got lucky in the corner.
The color is the sight-in attempt, and the groups seem pretty inconsistent to me.
So, the upshot is; given this data - what would your next move be?
Thanks - much appreciated!
f
How big are the groups is the squares on the target 1"?
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4 minutes ago, 45 Raven said:
May I ask from what Emily Post book you gathered that information?
Never heard of such etiquette especially sense not evreyone is on all the forums.
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What's the benefit of the OLED?
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2 hours ago, tomcal said:
I got the Red River Tactical Duty Light holster without the retention kit.
Great holster, great service.
Thanks
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17 minutes ago, tomcal said:
I run a TLR-1 on an M&P full size (4 1/4"), and while there isn't a major difference in weight, the low and forward location does make a noticeable difference in muzzle rise. Others who watched while I shot said it shot flat like a comp'd gun.
IIRC, I paid about $125 for the light, but I had to get a light bearing holster for another hundred or so.
Would I do it again? Yes I would.
What kind of holster did you get?
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On 6/5/2023 at 3:03 AM, stick said:
I've been using Everglades Ammo for years. Everglades Ammo Shipping is Free/Fast and I've never had an issue with their bullets. I've used 124gr & 147gr. Before I started shooting PCC, I would get 147gr. Now that I shoot pistol and PCC, I shoot their 124gr Concave Recess base. They also carry Montana Gold. I've tried most of the major manufacturers from Berrys, RMR, Blue Bullets, Montana Gold & Bayou just to name a few. For me, Everglades is top notch!
Any problems with coating flaking off and sticking to comp on your PCC? I had this problem with Berry's and xtreme plated.
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1 hour ago, Service Desk said:
If you give the comp ports a quick squirt of Dillon Case Lube every 50 or so shots… The comp shows less buildup and is easier to clean. Hornady OneShot will do much the same…
I will have to try this.
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I use Hornady 55 FMJBT 25 GR H335 and get just under MOA out of my 18" 1-8 barrel. H335 meters great on my Hornady LNL press.
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Competitor Magwell and Taran Tactical Mag Extensions
in S&W (M&P, etc)
Posted
Springer precision base pads fit magwell.