IHAVEGAS
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Posts posted by IHAVEGAS
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I think in USPSA (as opposed to IDPA), if you drop a gun, the RO can pick it up for you without a DQ, but if YOU touch it .... DQ.
Don't know about guns without manual safeties. For a 1911/2011 if the thumb safety is off the gun has to be in your hand, sort of like three gun I think.
My dq, table start, do I want to position the gun on the table pointing downrange with the thumb safety off or on, chose off, dq. Another new guy on my squad didn't know the rule either but he was shooting a glock, no thumb safety so no option for wrong choice and no dq.
+1 for learning the rules of the game before playing.
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Aok, hook.
Sort of like the 'lower forward edge of the wing' though if you do not know about the 'h' word
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http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=191773&page=16#entry2448321
The tuning thread is likely where I should be asking about disco fitting details, rather than on this one. So I moved. Please forgive the double post.
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Please describe the fitting process of the CGW Type 3
The area behind the wedge must be filed down:
This is sort of a double post, which is bad, but I think now I'm posting in the right thread which is good.
As had been noted elsewhere, this is a great thread and the proprietor deserves medals and dancing girls. And sear cages are from hell. And working on these guns can be fun and rewarding.
Fiddled with an SP01, pretty much followed exactly what was done on page 1. Worked great, after I finally looked close enough to better understand the sear cage going back together part, will not touch the sear cage innards again unless I feel like I have to though.
Put a CGW drop in disco in a CTS-LS SA/DA for my next trick. Gun works great in single action, double action will not catch with the gun assembled. Remove the slide & da works fine. Put the slide back on without the slide lock installed and hold it about 1/32" forward of its normal rest position and everything works fine.
I'm pretty sure my disco is now fubar as I attempted to address the problem by beveling the lower forward edge of the wing after making sure that the trigger bar spring tension was good and that the springs were riding in the grooves correctly. Now the slide will release the hammer very prematurely under all conditions and the original issue is unaffected.
I am too stubborn to quit easily so I'm thinking I'll buy another disco and go at it again. Is the area marked on the photo the right place to remove metal ?
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remove from the center leg..this allows the trigger bar forward.
if you remove from wings. the DA will release sooner in the trigger stroke
Hmmm, that seems to make perfect sense.
Will buy another disco and work up the courage to try try again, am thinking that the CZ disco is probably not dimensionally identical to the CGW disco so perhaps it is possible that the CZ will drop in (a man needs to have dreams). Would prefer not to screw up another carefully engineered piece, I don't suppose that anyone knows of a 'disco fitting for dummies thread anywhere' or maybe just a helpful picture or two?
On the bright side haven't found any primers yet that the gun will not pop with an 11.5" hammer spring, but have not tried more than a couple brands (winchester & cci).
Shooting the gun with the original disco today, freehand, just enough wind to bother you a little bit, no load development just some 147 g bayou loads laying around, I was 14 of 15 on a 9" paper plate at 50 yards. Given that I'm a mediocre shot I thought that spoke well for the gun.
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Anyone know any logical reason why a CGW type 1 disco would not work in a CTS LS-P ?
The guys at CGW are great but I think I'm wearing us out so I figured I'd seek knowledge here.
Installed disco - worked great except double action would not reset - if I remove the slide stop lever and hold slide just slightly forward of normal rest position everything works fine - playing with slide off of gun it is like the trigger bar just needs to go up a tiny smidge higher to allow da reset - verified springs which ride under trigger bar are riding the grooves correctly and are at proper tension - put original disco back in and verified that everything still works great - ground a clearance bevel on the CGW disco per CGW - reinstalled type 1 disco - no change - added a little more bevel - I'm thinking a little more was too much as now the da will not reset with the gun completely together (original issue) and also the da will now drop the hammer prematurely when I'm playing with the gun with slide held slightly forward of original battery position.
I could buy another type 1 disco and try again, or see if the CZ in short reset disco will work (not sure that it does anything for pre travel in single action though) , or learn to enjoy shooting with a longer pre travel.
Am leaning toward investigating the CZ disco but figured I would peruse the area for thoughts first.
For what it is worth. The DSPerman increased tension safety lever springs work great I think if you plan to basically not use the safety (stiff as snot, really not hard to install or a pain when you are assembling / disassembling). The reduced power trigger spring works great also (easy to install if you buy the cgw punch & replacement trigger pin & have a man sized hammer to get the old pin out).
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Stock II (44 oz.), Stock II L 4.93" barrel 9mm 9X21 (45.85 oz.), Stock II Xtreme 4.50" barrel 9mm (44.09 oz.)
I think you are right, saw all the 9mm and no 40 and just assumed.
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I got a stock 2, in 40 because availability at normal pricing not inflated.
I did see at least one 40 available when I was going through my last 'must buy another gun' mental episode. That much gun weight pushing a 40 loaded down to minor would just be cool (for some reason my favorite load to shoot is a 180 grain 40 at about 140 pf).
I wonder if it is a lead pipe cinch that they will eventually be added to the USPSA production gun list? Weird to me that the 9's are now ok but the 40 is not. Production number based?
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I'm so confused
.Questions of what is legal for what always end up making my head hurt.
Seems like I read somewhere that if you bought an accu shadow then you are good to go for USPSA production, but if you bought a shadow & then had it converted to be identical to an accu shadow you would be sent to rules jail.
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I have to say none of this makes any sense to me, and I switched from cz to tanfo. It all comes down to preference. I find part access and cost for both platforms very similar.Interesting. What would be cost and lead time for a stock 2 that was ready to go to matches? If you can't buy them ready to go, I guess cost and lead time for gun and parts would be the question.
I kind of wrote them off after my friend told me it took forever to find his and it was working out pricey and after listening to the "gear queer" u-tube review which made them sound expensive & hard to get right & hard to find.
Perhaps it is a US cost and availability thing or maybe things have opened up or perhaps there are resources my friend doesn't know about.
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The CTS LS-P isn't made by CZ UB.
If you look at the CZC listing, I says made in the USA by CZ Custom.
Agreed.
I just don't know if it was ever an oem gun and is now only made by czc or if it was always only made by czc. I really don't have a dog to fight (I've got an SP01 that I could play with in IDPA) , but if somebody knows the history and origins stuff that would be interesting.
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The LS-P is made by CZC, which is not on OEM (per IDPA).
It may have been listed in the CZ catalogs, but so has the Accu Shadow, even though they were both made by CZC.
Hmm, didn't find the whole 2013 catalog again, but I do not remember any reference to CZ custom , http://cz-usa.com/product/cz-75-shadow-cts-ls-p/. Just seemed to be another model that was made for a while and then discontinued.
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Service is non-existant, parts are very hard to come by, and there is a reason the top guys put up with all of that.
Because they do not have to?
"Sorry Mr. Stoeger but those are on a wait list so you will need to dominate the next few major matches with another brand".
A friend went from an SP01 to a stock 2, I asked him about it at the last match and he said "I wish I would have kept the CZ, I'm putting money into the stock 2 that I will never get back, just a hammer by itself cost $xyz". Just one opinion though and I expect it is a great gun, forgot what number xyz was but I think it was enough that maybe I should have used caps.
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Quack can you please elaborate on that? I thought the ACCU shadow isn't legal due to the bushing barrel setup, the CTS-LS is not setup like that. And who is the approving authority of what guns can and cannot be shot in SSP? I've never seen actual "approval" list for SSP, other then Guide lines, and who does the burden of proof falls on how many guns are made or not made in a year? Who makes the call and says your Pistol is not legal at a local or higher match?
I'm not quack, but a couple things.
Accu shadow fails the externally visible modification rule if viewed as an SP01, if 2000 units per year were made (or 20,000 total) and CZ Custom was judged to be an oem then you could make a case for ssp legality. Also not esp legal as the only way an SP01 sneaks in to esp with the full dust cover is by being legal in ssp.
CTS-LS likely also does not make the 20,000 total or 2,000 per year rule that would allow the gun into ssp. It was listed in previous year CZ catalogs (legitimate oem gun) and I do not know of any reason why it would not be 100% kosher as an esp gun.
Calls on equipment at a match are made by the s.o.('s) running the check area and I have seen the match director pulled in on a couple disputed calls (both equipment dq's were upheld). The burden of proof for production numbers is a good question, personally I would approach it like USPSA production class rulings, i.e. be prepared to provide proof of compliance if I think something might be questionable, a better approach might be to ask the question through the IDPA website.
As with all responses related to nefarious regulations and subjective interpretations, I may be full of it.
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Well, I let everything sit through the night, this morning I unloaded the mags, took all the new parts off, swapped each base to the other mag tube, put it all back together and everything is working the way it's supposed to.
I'm not going to question it.
Oh, you got the Bill Gates basepads.
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Thanks, I'm wondering if my eyes are messed up or something. My friends and the target test show it's on target but I cant seem to hit center. I'm going to do a bench test to see if this is true.
You can try closing the non dominate eye, otherwise, it is just geometry.
Many right handed people, myself included, will tend to hit to the right when required to shoot with only the left hand. It is all about trigger control and learning to really know where that sight is when you drop the hammer, our vision does not change but all of the sudden we have lost that solid grip and straight back trigger motion we have worked on and now it is apparent that we are not really watching the sight as well as we thought we were.
You will fix what is going on with your shooting (lots of good books and dvd's out there for reference on the fundamentals and maybe you have somebody close to work with you one on one) , and then find something else that you want to work on
, it is a process. I'd be curious to see what your grip looks like and how tightly you grip with your weak hand. -
FWIW. One of my mags has the same issue. If I take a small blade screwdriver and put it in the hole for the locking plunger, I can pry the steel spring retainer forward with the tip of the screwdriver and at the same time push the basepad backward.
This allows the pin to line up and secure the basepad as it is supposed to.
Should not need to do this, but it works.
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My big surprise was that the LS feels the more nimble of the two when swinging around (dry fire target transitions). With eyes closed I would have guessed that the SP01 was the longer gun.
I did not see a distance specified on your test target or on mine, any idea what the distance was ? Don't know if the test group is something to smile or to cry about
. Well both of my SP01 Shadows are heavier than my CTS-Longslide.
If you get a fitted disconnector, the trigger will be just as good as any SP01 Shadow trigger can be.
Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
Hmmm, I guess I should have looked for weight data rather than looked at the two guns and assumed how they would feel.
CGW disco on order & reduced power trigger return spring. Will test the gun out in an IDPA classifier and a steel match this weekend as is though, I'm curious to see if the long pre-travel is much of a thing during match conditions.
Free hand casual paper punching with a hodge lodge of different loads (berry's 115's, bayou 124's and 147's, Montana gold 147's, power pistol, aa5, hs6, titegroup, power factors in the 120 - 135 range, cci and winchester and remmington primers) so far I have not seen much sensitivity to point of aim (15 yards free hand it is all good, longer distances and or a rest will likely change the story) or managed to find something that would cause the gun to hiccup.
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I Was only able to put 50rnds through it so far. First impression, it's slimmer then I thought, it's about as thick as a browning highpower, weight is pretty balance even with the longer slide. SA trigger is phenomenal! 2.5lbs with very little reset needed, felt as nice as my
9mm sti. DA trigger is smooth and about 7lbs. I probably dried fired it in DA 300+ times with no finger fatigue. MORE TO FOLLOW
Butt is dragging today so I picked mine up but have only coon fingered so far. Same thoughts on trigger, only thing is mine will need a fix as it has gobs of pre travel in single action (picked up the $1400 version at Shooters Connection, good action job but not exactly the same action pieces as the 1620 version at CZ Custom I think) else it wowed them at the ffl.
I will need to shoot them to know which works best, in the house the SP01 grip feels better to me and I like the way the web of your thumb goes deeper into the beaver tail, but the LS seems to let my strong hand get up higher on the gun which may mean the one that feels the worst at first ends up feeling the best.
Definitely wish the slight beveling on the SP01 mag opening was there on the LS.
Measured difference in sight radius between the SP01 with aftermarket fixed rear rear sight that stops very near the back of the slide and LS with fully adjustable sight that stops sooner is right at 0.525, does not seem like a big deal to me personally. I suspect either you can shoot alphas with both or with neither.
Cutting the closed end off with a hack saw makes a blade tec doh holster tolerable for the LS but with some tilt slop, does not hurt how it works with the SP01. A bit of spacer could be glued in to take away the tilt slop but that would prevent use with the SP01.
My big surprise was that the LS feels the more nimble of the two when swinging around (dry fire target transitions). With eyes closed I would have guessed that the SP01 was the longer gun.
I did not see a distance specified on your test target or on mine, any idea what the distance was ? Don't know if the test group is something to smile or to cry about
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there is no 'Prooduction Optics", only 'Carry Optics' with the ridiculous weight limit so that only plastic guns can play ....
The name will always be production optics in my heart
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Time to switch to OPEN - the C-More solves all those eye problems.
I'm hoping that production optics catches on (cheap and don't like that much noise).
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Thanks for the replies, Mark, I can still shoot a post and despite retrying every six months or so for the last 15 years, I can't shoot a fibre optic well, they just confuse me, but how I wish I could!
Most of my shooting is done with a sort of intermediate focus, somewhere between the target and front sight, and that seems to work well out to about 15yards, but I've noticed a few more surprise misses than I used to experience, and I put that down mainly to vision rather than attention.
I have tried using prescription glasses, and loved how clear the front sight was, but think the compromise at the target is more than I'm willing to give up just yet.
So I ordered the bigger front sight
Thanks again
P.D.
A friend is a grand master in his 70's who still shoots well enough to win local matches. Some people are not entirely human is the only way I can explain it.
Anyway, he shoots the biggest green fiber optic front sight that he can make work (the hi-viz kind with the front of the fiber belled open) , and on the rear sight makes a goal post outline (like what you see on some Glock factory sights) with white paint (or fingernail polish). He said this helps him pick up the sights quicker.
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I wonder how many would actually prefer the fpb guns if handed the two side by side.
Unfortunately, I can on occasion (twice this year) get a shot off before I am ready for it during match conditions. Never happens in practice, it is not a good thing, I am working on it. On 1911 style guns the problem goes away as I up the trigger pull weight to at least 3 (better 3 1/2) lbs. Just getting into the wonderful world of cz's (found a good deal on a used sp01 with fpb, have a non fpb block gun on order) , but playing so far has me thinking that I might be best off with some definite amount of pre travel in s.a. and maybe also with the fpb back in place (bought my gun with cgw parts & the fpb already removed).
In comparison to my plastic guns, can't remember a reasonable bit of pre-travel ever bothering me.
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I will be picking up my CZC CZ75 CTS LS-P 9MM today (That's a mouth full). My shooting time will be cut short this weekend but I'll try to get a few rounds down range and right a review for it when I can.
I just couldn't take the pressure anymore. Mine is on it's way. Will be interesting to see your thoughts and compare notes.
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CZ Tuning 101 with Professor Atlas
in CZ
Posted
Thank you.
"New (unfired) disco for sale cheap" .