Rhodie

I run 55 PMC Bronze on anything paper. I run Hornady 75 BTHP on any steel or stages with steel at distance and paper. My 75 loads with 23.9 gr of Varget shoot ~1" at 200 with my JP. I shot a 5 3/8" 7 shot group (that's how many were left in my mag) at 500 with it prior to FB3G last year.

This.... After spending years shooting benchrest and varmints, I just can't get past the lack of a good, crisp trigger. If a Glock / M&P / XD had a trigger like a 1911 or 2011, I would probably convert and never look back. Until then, I've got to have my good trigger.

I get a 1" group with my NC barrel and 69gr Stillwood Ammo One of Jeremy's shooters built a gun at the beginning of last year that shot one hole @ 100 and very close to 1/2" @ 200 with his 69 SMK reloads. I'm not sure what his exact load was but I know it was with Varget. It shot so well @ 100 that I thought he only hit the paper once while looking through the spotting scope.

One more thing I had to do..... when I changed out to an AR Gold trigger, I had to sand a small amount if material off of the bottom of the bolt because it was over cocking the trigger. About 15 minutes with some sandpaper and some elbow grease and everything was good to go.

I've had the 16" DPMS bull barrel upper for almost a year. I've probably put somewhere around 3k - 4k rounds through it. It is plenty accurate for my practice (~1"@ 25 yds with a Prismatic) and is very reliable as long as I clean it every 500ish rounds. Any more than that and the typical lead and wax buildup will start to affect the gun while going into battery. All that I have changed on it is I took the carbine length aluminum handguard tube off and put a rifle length tube on it. It was a simple unscrew one and screw the other on change out. I just put the Prismatic on it this week (I've been swapping my primary optic from my 223 upper until now) and I have a little over a case of ammo waiting to be shot. Over the next couple of months, I'm really going to put some rounds through it. If I come across any negatives during this time, I'll let every one know.

On my first day at work I was told by a Electrical Engineering Project Lead: "Walk fast, look worried and carry a clipboard." He's now a project manager. Maybe there's something to it.....

I have one that is around a 1998-1999 model. I inherited it from my father when he passed away. All that I remember him doing to it was removing the firing pin plunger to make the trigger pull a little better. It now has a sweet 2.75# pull. It will shoot one ragged hole @ 20 yards with my Bayou Bullet 200 LSWC loads. The only jams I have ever had were due to worn out brass that did not have enough neck tension. When the bullet hit the feed ramp it set back into the case instead of continuing to feed into the chamber. After I went through and culled all of my old brass, I never had another problem.

I do not know for sure about aftermarket barrels and/or comps. But, I have experience on the reliability (or lack thereof)...... I have a P-18 (their 9MM gun) that I use for 3 Gun. Getting this thing to run has been a very long, laborious process. The first time I tried to shoot it, the disconnector would hang up on the slide and prevent the gun from going back into battery. I sent it back to Para and waited a few months. When it came back it was still too long. I finished the last little bit of fitting on my own. After that, I did: A trigger job - Pretty painless...... It's around 3# now. I used a Wilson hammer sear for a regular 1911. Upgraded the extractor - The power claw extractor is absolutely terrible. You can put a standard extractor in as long as you add the special sleeve to fill in the hole where the power claw needed the extra space. Or, Aftec makes one that drops right in. I used a Wilson 9MM specific extractor with the sleeve. Repolished the feed ramp - I could feel ridges on the factory polish job with my fingernail. Now it looks and feel like a mirror. Started tuning on the magazines - The factory mag springs have square coils. The coils start small at the follower, get bigger, get smaller in the middle and then get bigger again at the base. This design makes it very prone to coils getting locked in on themselves and making a salt shaker. I changed them to Wolff springs. I also had to spread the feed lips out slightly and polish the inside of the lips so they would work with my 10# recoil spring that I use with my 125PF, 147 grain 3 gun loads. I also added Dawson extensions and they hold 22 rounds. Now that I've done all of this, the gun is quite reliable and accurate. I still have a little bit of concern with the mags, but the gun itself is very nice and soft shooting. If I knew what I know now when I purchased the gun, I would have saved up and bought an S_I type of gun. But, I have hung with this one. With that said, as soon as I can come up with the money, I am going to replace it with something nicer. Most likely an SVI or a Benny Hill Fat Free. Until then, I do not think the gun is holding me back. We had a plate rack at ~35 yards at the match I shot this weekend. It only took me 8 shots to clean the rack. That was the least amount of anyone in our squad. I would not use this for a carry weapon. I trust it enough for a game gun, but not near enough for if the targets were trying to shoot back.

I asked the same question before I signed up. Sheldon told me March 1st.

My wife will have her material for making custom earplugs at the range Saturday. They are $60 per pair (with or without a lanyard), cash and credit cards are accepted. If anyone has any questions, feel free to PM me or contact her directly. Her contact info is: Perfect Fit Ear Solutions Jennifer Rhodes (318) 278-3567 perfectfitearsolutions@hotmail.com The prep, injection and drying time usually takes 15-20 minutes (depending on the temperature... it will take a while first thing in the morning when it's 50 degrees). If you need to go shoot or tape after the material is in your ears, you can walk around for the 20 minutes and come back. Once they are out of your ears, they will be ready for you to pick up in 60 - 90 minutes. If you decide you want a pair at the end of the day and do not want to wait for them to cure and be sealed, we will take them home and finish them and mail them to you first of the following week.

Outsydlooknin75, I think I will give your suggestion a try and give it a few love taps. I would not expect them to replace a scope that I've had for months or years. But, for a scope that is brand new, I figured it was not an absurd request. Then again, I have been wrong before and I am most likely going to be wrong again. If I do beat it into submission, I will be ecstatic!!!

A solution to my problem has been reached. No need for my rant to still be out in the open.