PatJones
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Posts posted by PatJones
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First hand, I haven't had this issue, even with 40-50 rounds of pretty quick shooting. Moreover, every case in a revolver (or auto) is forced back when the gun is fired. It would take a lot to force it back and expand it so much that it won't move in and out (have some play) that it would cause binding. In other words, if a case is forced back hard enough to bind the gun, I'd think ejection would be tough as the case would really have to be stuck in there.I have heard recently that the new S&W 929 PC has been having lockup issues. It appears that during extended use such as a competition the cases are backing out and causing the cylinder to jam. Has anyone out there experienced this problem? I have been shooting a 627 in 38 Special and also in 38 Super and never experienced any issues of any kind. Please advise.
The 547, the old k frame without moonclips, for lack of a better term had a second firing pin. This second pin was flattened on the face and hit the case rim to push the 9mm back into the chamber after firing so it wouldn't drag on the breachface.
The tapered case was enough of a problem that they went through a fair bit of trouble to install 2 frame mounted pins during the time period that the other guns had their firing pins on the hammer.
I believe the moon clips reduce the problem enough that the second firing pin is unnecessary.
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The trigger weight restriction should have been included when the division was created. It's really too late now.
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Well crap. I hope you get better.
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Bronchitis? That sucks. Will you be at the whistling pines match Monday?
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Carmoney, I'm looking at getting a CNC control unit for it as I believe that will increase my productivity.
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They hang below the belt. Unless you have a protrusion down there, the protrusion above the belt just keeps them dry in the rain. That said, a smaller roof probably makes for faster reloads.
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I've trimmed my beard since that picture was taken.
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I'm a realist. I know they're just gonna glue it anyway so I don't argue.
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You've got to try it. It makes sight installation easy, lots of control. It doesn't take much to drill through 1/16 inch of mild steel from each side.
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You beat me to it, there's a lot of good info at the ECOUSPSA site.
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Look at the sights available from Dawson Precision. Much nicer quality than factory.
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I have worked on some of the guns that come from the factory with the wolff springs installed. If memory serves, the strain screw on these models is a little bit longer than standard. New strain screws are usually a bit long, so new screws can help.
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I have a Double Alpha on my revolver belt. It's very secure when locked, it fits any barrel length and nothing goes into the end of my barrel to damage the crown. I would buy it again.
I moon rack of my own design. The north mountain holders are well made.
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I bend the whole spring into an smooth arch for a carry-type trigger tune where the trigger pull will be left at 9 lbs or more. There is a limitation to how far you can take this type of bend.
For a competition trigger pull you need to shorten the strain screw or at least LocTite it in a partially unscrewed position, this makes the spring straighter and longer. The type of abrupt bend you see on Jerry's springs simply serves to shorten the spring so that knuckling doesn't occur when the strain screw is shortened. You still need to tune it with a slight arch.
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I use the correct size drill bit in an egg-beater type drill, I like the additional control this gives me over a power drill. I drill halfway through the sight from each side. Put the revolver in a vise and be careful when you break thru from the second side. If you break the drill bit off, they're a pain to get out. A small clamp is useful to hold the sight in place while you drill.
You don't want to drill straight thru from one side, even on a milllling machine. If you're not straight to the original hole you'll end up with an enlarged hole on the back side.
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Look at the picture of the Miculek spring kit on his website. See the slight bend at the top of the mainspring? I bend it down like that about 20 to 30 degrees. Just enough to shorten the spring and prevent knuckling when the strain screw is shortened.
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Boss, my best matches always follow a poor performance. You got all of your bad luck out, that will allow you to excel at area 2.
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I don't care for the wolff springs. In my experience a recontoured factory spring is more reliable.
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Tuned revolvers are best used with federal primers, you can shoot the harder stuff in your bottom feeders.
Edited for spelling.
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Tig welder.
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Didn't this thread just get locked last week?
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Accurate powder shows a staring load of 4.4 grains of solo1000 behind a 165 gr HP for 917 fps.
Something similar behind your 155 would make ~142 PF.
I don't load for .40, I just found a burn rate chart that listed solo 1000 as the fastest of your powders. The Accurate powders description says it's good for cowboy loads.....
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How close to minor (125) are you trying to get?
S&W 929 Cylinder Lockup Issues
in Revolver Forum
Posted
Here's a picture I found on the web.