Davis

Wow EricW looks great sorry I have been away too long I will be doing the upgrade/downgrade myself soon will let you know how it goes 1/11/04 update : Just finished the modification. WOW OH WOW it is the smoothest sweetest operation. I can't wait to try loading a batch I was wondering if you could forgo the drilling out of the hole and washer use if you just use the old Failsafe rod clip that used to go on the rod, for reference ,take a look at the picture I posted earlier and you will see it connected to the failsafe rod what do you think???

Well I now have one of those springs on the powder charge bar and it works fantastic. I ordered 2 from Dillon (via brian) and found that 2 was too harsh. I now have a spare and the powder measure runs smooth. Thanks brian

with the exception of putting a redding bullet seating die on(Great idea,will do that soon) I've done the same as DJPoLo. I also lined the walls and bottom of the loaded round drop chute with some smooth skateboard tape. Super quiet now,no tink,clink,plop noise. the rounds drop and slide right into the 1050 Akro bin I hang instead of the 650 size. I still working on the used primer tube.I has become a mission now. I tried jamming a bottom cut, fitted 357 sig round in the hole attached to a plastic tube .The primers started to hang up on the case lip,not dropping down the tube but collecting in the void between the shellplate.So many built up that it stopped the shellplate from indexing. And trimming the coil really really made the difference.I'm not losing powder out of the 10mm cases anymore. Man I love this thread! Thanks to all for the great help Scott

Jeeper I wish I could take credit for all those accessories for the reloader on the wall but I cannot. This was just a picture I found on the web that I was able to post on this thread. Who ever this person is they sure do have some really nice toys.

Finally here it is

I have a good picture but do not know how to attach it there isn't a attach pic spot like there is on the other forum I used( GT)

The one Main thing I noticed was that the powder bar didn't return back completely. I wanted to make sure my powder drops were accurate since I could move the powder bar back and forth. I increased the tension on the rubber band while I await some springs and now the powder bar come back all the way and the operation is alot smoother. I'm glad I asked you guys if you noticed this problem.

I have had recurring failure to fires from the Brass colored Winchester primers. I didn't have the problem with the old Winchester Nickel colored primers. I rechecking the seating depth, and all. I even changed reloading presses. I then replaced the firing pin springs in my G20's and still had the problem. I was even having the FTF problem with my S&W 610 revolver. I thought " ok maybe just a bad batch" , but after going thru 2 new boxs of 1000 ea, and still having this intermitten problem, I gave up I went to CCI primers and haven't had a FTF with any of those. I'll stick with CCI or Federal's from now on.

Great webpage EricW. Thanks Are the springs still available from dillon? I am using a 650 , and I now see after reading your page why they put this anti return cam on. I think I will just get the right springs and see how much smoother it works before I modify it. Using the Dillon springs over the rubber band will at least give me the right spring tension.

I have also found that with that little extra tension from the rubber band, the case expansion die engages and flares the cases better.. I would call the new unit the click-clunker

I recently received my dillon 650 unit for 10mm. I noticed while I was setting up the powder measure that the unit doesn't have those metal return springs that go around the base of the powder funnel tube and the charging bar. I have alot of pics that I saved from various web pages and some have them, Others do not. I have also noted the there is 2 metal plates that connect the the failsafe rod. I figure that this is the newer upgraded powder charge unit. I figured it was ok but while reloading, I have noticed that the charging bar does not come back fully.It is also a pretty rough motion with that new metal plate that pops down to allow the charging bar to return. I have gone and added a light strenght rubber band where the old metal powder bar springs used to go. That has definitely smoothen out the motion and enabled the charging bar to return back further to it original position. Has anyone else noticed this or had the same problem?

I ended up using a Wolff setup and just moved to the ESP catagory too. I shoot a G20 and use a 22 lb spring in mine or If you reload, you can stay in SSP by just trying a lighter load for your caliber until you find a mix you like withthe stock spring