alecmc
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Posts posted by alecmc
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10 hours ago, perttime said:
If the hammer is rubbing on the frame, are the stock shims enough?
Does it stop rubbing on the frame with them ?
Yes ? Then yup! They're good
No? Then nope, buy some more.
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38 minutes ago, bcp said:
Interesting. What is the price range on an Open style revolver?
Depends really, all my guns are 627s as I was heavily invest in the 38 caliber before the 929s even existed. So alot of the modifications I've made to my stock 4"/5" 627s were to basically make what equates to a stock 929 ( titanium cylinder and longer sight radius )
As far as costs, you can probably count on spending $2000-$2800 from the ground up with a new build, depending on how much of the work you can handle yourself.
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Just a disclaimer, tossing on a fancy barrel won't fix bad techniques or poor habits. There is no substitute for practice and training.
Having good grip technique will keep the gun flat at (most) power factors, having custom equipment helps a bit to change the feel of a gun to whatever personal preference you like, heavier front end, lighter frame, heavier barrel, longer barrel, etc - they'll all have their place for specfic needs.
That being said, I get my ass kicked with factory-ish guns on the regular.
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6 hours ago, bcp said:
Any videos running these guns?
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2 hours ago, Cuz said:
What are you guys using as a red dot mounting plate on your open revolvers?
Thanks.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkAlchin mount , solid and very low profile.
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51 minutes ago, Demus319 said:
alecmc is that a carbon wrap barrel?
How do you like the mid port barrel? Is there a difference between the two barrels on feel and recoil?
Yes, Carbon wrapped barrel. The actual barrel below the wrap it is pretty thin. @MWP probably has some build pics of the barrel pre-wrap.
The mid-ports I use for ICORE with 130 PF ammo or so, It works pretty decent. I think the weight of the barrel helps keeping the recoil down too. I think if I used a "gassier" powder the ports would work even better, but I have no issue with it as is.
The carbon wrapped barrel gun is very light weight and is used specifically for steel challenge with very light 90PF loads. I wouldnt use it for minor/icore/uspsa.
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2 minutes ago, Soderquist said:
weighted mag
wrong forum.
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No.
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6 hours ago, Carmoney said:
Aim at something really small, like a light switch on the other side of the room, and dry-fire DA until the sights stay where they are supposed to be when the hammer drops. Only dry-fire with a hard grip using full muscle tension, or you will be grooving in bad habits. Doing it correctly will be difficult and fatiguing.
I'd say 90% of my dry fire consists of exactly this type of routine. IMO, you really just want to build good habits, muscle memory , and most of all really tone in the visuals you need with yours eyes on the front sight. Practice your Draws, (dummy round ) reloads, transitions from spot to spot.
Dry fire with revolver is probably the most effective out of all the divisions because it's the same process between live and dry fire with you actually cycling the gun in double action every-time you pull the trigger.
A few years ago I picked up some of those small scale cardboard targets that I taped to the walls around my reloading room, If you want to get really fancy about it you can pick up some of those. https://benstoegerproshop.com/accessories/targets/dry-fire-targets/
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Yes, using 9mm data is a great starting point for 38 short colt.
But, plenty of people have already put in the work developing 38 short colt loads, you can probably just list your powder and bullet weights and get plenty of great recommendations.
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5 hours ago, MWP said:
He got lucky on that stage. I heard that guy isn’t very good with a revolver.
Jerry would of did it faster.
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43 minutes ago, perttime said:
Apparently, it is possible to make the Super GP100 trigger pull shorter. A couple of IPSC Revolver shooters were discussing it on facebook a while ago.
edit:
found my previous comment on that:
Henrik F. Nielsen: A lot of the travel is not necessary in the end of the stroke and can be removed by careful fitting the hammer and trigger
Olle Lind: I've done that on a few S&W. Makes wonder to the speed
This is the group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/261609303984113/
Typically, from what I understand with those shorter length of pull setups means you get a heavier trigger.
The energy needs to come from somewhere, what you lose in momentum of travel needs to be made up in mainspring tension. -
While not what the OP is asking, but as far as firing pins go - I've never broken an apex pin. Ever. Thats with ALOT of rounds down range, and alot of dry firing.
I have however broken every C&S pin i've ever owned.
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13 hours ago, Carmoney said:
I recently watched a couple fairly good revolver shooters slap their cylinders in place with so much force that you could hear the cylinder stop buzzing against the rotating cylinder with every speed reload.
Slap...bzzzzzzz...bang.
Made me cringe!
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Hold up. Wait a minute.
You guys clean your revolvers?
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On 3/9/2020 at 6:14 PM, Bill Sahlberg said:
Right handers pull low & to the left shooting double action. Try shootong higher & to the right fast double action to compensate....
Do. Not. Do. This.
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Never had a problem using a brass rod, you can whack on it pretty hard.
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I'd say between 600-750
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You know what's better than 7 shots for steel challenge?
...
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...8 shots for steel challenge
I'd recommend skipping over the 7 shot variants entirely and pickup an 8 shooter.
A 627/929 can be found between the 700-900 mark easy.
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3 hours ago, rr4406pak said:
Website still seems down today...
We are aware and are working on it.
Thanks!
AM
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looks good, the " plug" looks excellent. What'd you use?
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Getting the same, I sent out a few messages - I'll post back when I have more info.
Alec
ICORE BOD
S&W 929 MYSTERY PART
in Revolver Forum
Posted
It's the hammer lock , part of the " hillary hole " , You use the little key that came with the gun in the hole in the side of the frame to raise that piece ( the flag ) so that it blocks the hammer from moving.
Most competition guys choose to remove them as they are un-nessasary to the function of the gun, some have even reported the hammer lock engaging on its own during normal firing.