alecmc
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Posts posted by alecmc
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Sort of defeats the purpose doesn't it?
Nobody to my knowledge makes them.
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"full seated" is the correct answer.
I've got a 1050, so I can set a consistent primer depth at .009 below flush. ( sweet zone is between 008 and 010 IMO )
You want to eliminate any "gap" between the flash hole on the brass and the bottom of the primer. If the firing pin needs to waste energy moving the primer fully forward before setting off its counter intuitive to what you want. Fully seat and set the hammer accordingly.
Also, using the correct firing pin is pretty important. A factory pin that measures .495 will work, or buy an aftermarket pin from somebody like apex or TK.
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damn that cylinder looks heavy.
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Bless your heart..... If you're still able to set off CCI primers your trigger is not light. Just wait till you get it down to proper weights!
Sounds like you'd benefit from a reputable gunsmith to work of your parts. It makes a world of difference.
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Uh. Gross.
Never.
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a rear sight blade is a rear sight blade, no matter the model.
Though, now might be a good opportunity to upgrade to something better like a bowen classic arms, or weigand if you are on more of a budget.
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14 hours ago, MWP said:
Don’t 327s come with titanium cylinders?
Sounds like he bought a gun somebody did the ol' switch-a-roo on.
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I use the biggest punch that will fit in the window of the hand where the spring goes to compress it.
- Short side in first, long side "up" , short leg of the spring fits in the groove inside the center of the hand
- compress the spring with a punch, once its compressed far enough push the hand in ( the hand pins should already be in and semi started during this process , so you can just send it home once compressed enough )
- buy extra, you're going to lose a few here and there. Always good to have spares.
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1 hour ago, tomjerry1 said:
I have new springs installed, set at 6.25 lb. Extended firing pin also, hopefully to the range to function test/adjust, that 14 lb trigger was pretty bad.
PS, where can I get a new rear sight blade? I see a lot of folks talk about Weigand, but didn't see on their site.
Dont bother with those replacement blades.
You cant go wrong with a full replacement assembly.
Check out Bowen Classic arms, I think they are the best ones out there.
https://parts.bowenclassicarms.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3
As an alternative - LPA also makes replacements.
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51 minutes ago, Warrior75 said:
Where do you get it or what do you use for shim material in this situation? Thanks.
You can purchase an assortment of shim stock off amazon, or just use an old set of feeler gauges. Cut them to size where needed with a pair of scissors.
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If you are truly out of adjustment, you'll need to shim the dot where needed so you can gain the needed space. Get some shim stock thats a few thou thick and go from there.
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I picked this one up years ago for removing the extractor rod. Way better than those little nubby ones you need an allen key for.
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the most insane part about that post is that people are paying $1600 for a stock model 29
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Plenty of people do this, successfully.
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Those are some of the main players in the revolver gunsmithing these days.
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Here is a quick video of Olhasso going thru some of his Super GP100 mods, including the extended cyl release.
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15 minutes ago, Lesliet said:
Great thread for newbie info! I'm in a similar boat as the OP, putting together a revo to go fast with, and it's growing on me. Thinking I may switch over and do revo as my main thing. Currently shooting a 1990's vintage 625-4, which has its limits ( parts are not very available, 6 round capacity) but it should be reasonably competitive for ICORE limited-6. I will likely try a USPSA match with it, one regains a bit from the lower capacity with major scoring, and I'm still fairly new to USPSA, so it will be a while before I'm fighting for tenths of a second at the top *grin* .
Already thinking about that next gun... either a 929 or a 627.
Anyone know of a good parts source for older S&W guns? ( firing pin on hammer nose vintage) I'd love to find a bobbed hammer for this thing, can't bring myself to mill the original. I guess most of the springs are interchangeable with the newer 625's?
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1 hour ago, Toolguy said:
The purple 222 and the blue 242 don't require any heat to remove the screws. Just a regular screwdriver works fine. I don't understand why some people are so paranoid about using the correct grade of Loctite. Just because one person doesn't need it dosen't mean someone else wouldn't benefit from it. Ultimately, everyone has to make their own decisions. Personally, I use Loctite a lot with no problems.
Yup. This.
You dont have a problem with it loosening.....until you do.
I prefer to take the proper precautions to give myself the best chance of success.
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Yes, nearly every screw on a revolver should receive a bit of blue or purple lock tite.
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The biggest wear section on my old TRR8s was on the frame firing pin channel. ( where the hammer strikes ), amoung the other normal spots.
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1 hour ago, RangerMcFadden said:
I know you and Alec have gone over ports and comps like 50 times, but could you explain it for a 51st time?
Why wouldn’t porting work on an R8 specifically?Saying it wouldn't work probably isn't the best way to say it. Saying it doesnt really do enough to make a enough of a difference to really matter is probably more appropriate.
With the type of powder we typically use there really isnt enough pressures , like in our semi auto open shooter counter parts, to have enough gas to drive it down.
I think the most effective type of porting, if any, with revolvers and the common types of powders we use are mid-ports. The powders pressure spike happens about half way down the barrel, so having the ports there make the most sense to be.
That being said. I run mid-ports on my open ( minor ) gun and will continue to do so, it helps * a little * , but dont expect a night and day change.
My open steel challenge gun I dont run any porting or comps, with my dinky 90 PF ammo it's already very manageable.
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I used a TRR8 for many years, for my steel challenge guns. IMO the only reason to go with the scandium frame is to maintain a very light weight for a game like steel challenge, I only ever shot sub minor ( 90 pf ) loads in the TRR8 guns. Moving up to minor, and major loads didnt do me any favors with the light weight frame.
( Yes, you can have the barrel ported, even though its sleeved )
I've since moved on to modified steel frame 627 frames ( Ti cylinders, and a lighter barrel ) I find that it offers a bit more in the longevity of the frames while still being light enough for steel challenge.
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The stock firing pin works best in my experience, 7.5 lb DA is what you can expect with a rimfire revolver.
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I use the fat man spacers Bob over @ north mountian makes for his rig. They attach to the tec lok belt attachements.
Anybody use an extended firing pin in an S&W 617 (.22 cal)?
in Revolver Forum
Posted
I'm confused here. The apex hammers do not have any single action mode. How can it " still " be % FTF in single action mode with the apex hammer...when the apex hammer doesn't have single action notch.