wanttolearn
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Posts posted by wanttolearn
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if i might suggest...i found it very important to ensure that the 30LPI checkering you've effected is truly full depth.
Sometimes it feels as though you've achieved full depth based on effort however you may not have.
At that point the curved single point file seems to track much easier.
Please make sure that i orient the checkering to my body such that my hand and arm can draw or push axially with minimal to no deviation.
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thank you.....will call. appreciate the information
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I understand....i thought perhaps it was a bondo type of adhesive product that one could shape and then allow to harden.
thank you for taking the time to respond.
do you think you'll have one of your hammers available for the 686 plus pro type of revolvers?
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i understand....any thoughts as to what material might be used to create the beavertail.....i have a neurologic injury and this might be a great option for me.
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I found this photo in the new Dillon catalogue...the photo/advertisement is meant for a comp tac holster.
i went to the comp tac website but can not find any info on the grip itself.i would love to get a grip like this for the SW 686 plus pro.
wondering if anyone had seen this one or knew of a similar design, i really like the beavertail and the bottom extension.
thank you
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thank you...appreciate the information
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I appreciate the response, thank you
it's great to hear that there are many suitable options
with respect to the seater modification, was this something that you could effect like a simple polishing or was it something that required factory intervention?
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Hi,
i've been reloading long range rifle ammunition for a few years now.
I would like to try my hand at reloading pistol ammunition, primarily 9mm and .45acp for the range. My intent is for tight little groups on paper....(no run and gun, no self defense or hunting). (i didn't want to post the same query on both the 9mm and the .45acp sections).
I have a Forster Co-Ax single stage press.
I'm not sure which brands/models of dies to invest in, there are so many to choose from.
I would prefer to keep prices below $150 for a single caliber set...unless you feel that that's insufficient, then i would consider higher priced sets if need be.
thank you
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Rick Hebert was really nice to deal with and the pistol runs great
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Some of my older compensators had a recess that fit over the bushing......with your design it might perhaps help take up the dead space and minimize the compensator's potential tendency to spin/rotate.
In It's current form, it appears quite long, I wonder if a shorter set up might end up giving you less hassles in the long run?
just a couple of thoughts
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the causes are myriad....while it might prove to be an improper sear-hammer interface ....assuming geometries are correct, and in view of a new hammer, sear, and spring....you might first, safely, bench trial augmenting sear spring pressure to see if that helps.
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Would anyone happen to know the glass lens dimensions of the springfield armory hex dragonfly red dot optic.....not the footprint or unit dimensions....just those of the glass itself. thank you
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Sinister, sounds awesome.....i'd sure love to see a photo of your build if possible.
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thanks...i'll google FTP just now
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anyone have any experience with the Bushnell RXS250 ? would it compare well to the aforementioned or would it hold him back?
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My Son loves the p226 and he wants to start competing in steel shoots. he's quite serious and very safe. i'd prefer to cry once rather than purchase something he'll rapidly outgrow but i wouldn't mind not throwing money at bling.
We would sure appreciate any guidance.
My Son showed me photos of a Holosun 509 series as well as the large red dot that was on Max Michel's pistol but honestly i know so little about all of this and we're open to any and all brands and models.
thank you.
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thanks for the tips....we're both working hard to improve
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very cool....kind of reminds me of the sit match master
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read good things about them.....there's a nice promotion going on right now where they give you an extra stock and fore-end ...(i saw it posted on the Europtic website)
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just saw the newer posts...thanks....will try the recommendations
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thank you...i understand
to answer your questions (my friend and myself both took classes from the same instructor so i refer to us in the plural).....after removing the pistol from the holster, having brought it up to eye level and pointing at the target....only then do we begin to prep the trigger as we are extending our arms.
after discharge/firing the cartridge and as long as we're on a target we do then steadily release tension on the trigger till feeling the reset point. perhaps our pistols have a more distinct reset point?
i very appreciate the help and information
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I had the opportunity to fondle a couple of Bruce Gray's p320s.....full on open customs with with their awesome Tungsten infused grip, Bar-Sto barrels, amazing trigger. That gun felt so nice in hand, it balances beautifully....I was very impressed and at least for myself, the grip blows away even the Wilson frame.
I also had a chance to play with a couple of production and limited type models. It was cool to review the evolution of their p320 parts. A really great experience, spoke with some of the steel / speed shooters as well who were very pleased, they were hammering with the pistol.
Mr. Gray has an incredible understanding of that platform and really delved into the workings of the pistol and optimized it well beyond i would have thought possible.
I would love to get my hands on one. Their warranty is incredible as well.
Help finding a competition target grip for an S&W L frame 686plus performance model revolver
in Revolver Forum
Posted
Hello,
I recently purchased a S&W L Frame PERFORMANCE CENTER® MODEL 686 PLUS revolver. (https://www.smith-wesson.com/product/l-frame-11760)
In my opinion it's a nice revolver with good balance. The factory trigger action is fair but will shortly merit a trigger/action job.
The challenge i'm hoping to remedy relates to the grip.
My trigger finger (index) protrudes well to the other side of the frame impinging on my support hand fingers when i place the trigger face at the last joint or even the distal pad of the trigger finger (I'm not pressing on the frame). I generally wear a size L or XL glove.
In retrospect perhaps i should have purchased a larger frame platform but i'd like to try and make this one work.
I would like to use the pistol in some local competitions shooting weak hand and strong hand and two handed grasp, we shoot some variations on steel plates, Texas star, poppers etc.
I'd very much appreciate your help, insight and recommendations.