wanttolearn
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Posts posted by wanttolearn
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it's been quite some time since i reloaded for the model 52 but i checked my notes
case length is very important, 1.145"
my magazine only fit with flush or almost flush seated projectiles (148 gn Hollow Base Lead Full Wadcutters) and a light taper crimp.
i only used Federal primers
My favorite load were VV N340 powder, 3.6gr.
Bullseye 2.9gn was also excellent.
My notes mention a recommendation from a good friend of mine who preferred 2.7 grains of N310
hope this helps
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thank you all for taking the time to respond, all this information helps very much.
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thank you. i appreciate your experience and will certainly employ your caution.
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On 10/23/2023 at 11:29 AM, 10mmdave said:
Late to the party here but just wanted to add, I shoot a lot of N Frames in the games and when I went to my K frame sized 617 it just felt puny in my hand, so I put an N Frame Hogue grip on the gun and filled the hollow area in with some JB Weld, after it dried it was simple enough to smooth it out and contour it to the grip.
Take too much off all you need to do is just add a little more JB Weld and start again !!
After this I "sealed" the JB Weld with some super glue and now I can use any N frame sized grip I want on my K frame.
(If u want better pic's let know and I'll see what I can do, just used my laptop camera for these two)
PS Looking at the gun I took those pics of it looks like I should trim the tops of the ears of the grip a little, I've been shooting this setup the last 2 years and that;'s the first time I noticed it !!
10mm Dave, i picked up one of the larger Hogue grips as you've advocated.... it has definitely helped with fit/comfort and establishing a more natural point of aim...thank you.
i hoped to get the D. Lauck grips but with a few options for my larger hand dimensions the price became ever more prohibitive....that said, i'm saving my shekels
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thank you, i'll do so
i'll also search out options for static dissipation.
i was thinking of perhaps adding another surround at a bit of a distance from the primer tube shield as well and maybe some sort of loose cover?
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thank you for responding. i purchased the reloader and a bunch of associated parts for it quite a few years back and it is all still in the boxes sealed. I probably should have sold it years ago but life got in the way and i neglected to.
i do use eye and ear protection when reloading, just a habit i learned and practiced long ago..... but i can't help but wonder if there isn't anything else i can do to optimize safety.
If the unit can't be upgraded, is there perhaps a way to fashion/attach a more comprehensively protective shielding device for the surround as well as for the top?
any constructive thoughts or suggestions would sure be appreciated
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I understand that very many users have had excellent experiences with the Dillon 650XL reloader.
That said i've heard firsthand of some frightening occurrences of primer chain explosions.
I'm not trying to create conflict or misrepresent....rather, I'm just hoping to see if perhaps an upgraded/revised priming system is available for the Dillon 650XL?
thank you
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thank you. i misunderstood.
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I too was reluctant to modify my magazines, as such i was referred to the Grayguns base pads which work very nicely and meet specifications...you might want to give them a call.
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I read so much about the Sig p320 concerns, particularly as they have just recently become available to the California market.
.... It seems most likely to me that these issues resulted from errors in reloading.
I think Mr. Gray's testing nicely and most definitively demonstrated that as the most likely cause.
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i wonder if the sight you're showing is the base portion of this sight on the SW Model 41
see post 15
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I came across a notification that the famed gunsmith Mr. John Jardine has passed. While I've never had the pleasure to handle one of his firearms, I'm told he made some pretty terrific 1911s.
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2 hours ago, MuayThaiJJ said:
Karl Nill grips, I had em on my 625 for a while
thank you
did you not favor them?
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YSR, may i ask...what type of grips are you using on that revolver? are you happy with them?
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thank you all,
yes San Diego based.... and the revolver is a 686 plus professional 7 shot 38 special/357 (my mistake, too late to edit the original post).
I'm just after surgery so unfortunately won't be shooting for quite some time i'm told but i really appreciate the offer.
i will try to see what i can accomplish by dry firing in the mean time
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i too would love to watch and learn
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thanks....hope to get to the range next week.
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Darn it, all we have is a Costco sized box of Chex (trying and too often failing at watching sugar content). I do have the hammer inertia puller...must try harder.
The rounds were made for me by a close friend who was a bullseye shooter back in the day. I'll have to check the case/brand.
I'm using a new unaltered SW 686 plus performance model.
After running through the sizing die they now fit nicely, haven't tried them yet. Appreciate the note regarding degraded accuracy but haven't had a chance to get out to the range to test one yet.
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thank you everyone....i'm going to try doing some DIY work at home...and should that effort fail i'll strongly consider the DL option.
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I was having difficulty flush seating hollow based wadcutters for a 38special revolver. The problem arose as a result of only having access to the standard seater die which distorted to face of the projectile.
I wasn't sure if RCBS sold replacement stems or if i'd have to purchase a new die so I called RCBS.
They were very nice and very helpful, no hassles and no charge. They sent me a new seating stem.
I honestly didn't expect it as my dies have been in the family for a good many years. Great experience, thought i'd share.
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interesting...i'll search badman
nice to have options
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RJH interesting...and sad to hear...but thank you for the information
The pile driver won't work on flush seated 38 special
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thank you, founds a few things i need in addition to the cob media at Grafs
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still wondering if such a tool exists
in the mean time i ran the cases through a dry spray lubricated sizing die.... and thankfully the bulge disappeared, the cases look great.... and the rounds now pass the plunk test.
Oil or grease?
in Open Pistols
Posted
I try to understand and appreciate what i would like to effect. Grease as i understand it is fundamentally oil with a thickener (and just like oil it might contain additional additives). The general rule i recall from parental instruction was if the part turns consider applying oil, if it slides consider grease. While these principles hold true to a measure...we are often faced with more complex considerations and specialized functions, forces, locations, contaminants and applications.
For intense friction and higher speed applications especially when the mating surfaces are tight like a well crafted firearm's tight slide to frame fit, oil would typically be my preferred choice. If tolerances allow or if i'm dealing with galling concerns especially with different types of metals rubbing and working against each other then i generally apply a thin coat of grease with a couple of drops of oil on top of the grease. It might be voodoo but it's held me well with dealing with aluminum frame and steel slide platforms.
In areas or on components that endure heavier loads or parts that move in vertical relations to each other i generally prefer grease. The reason for this is it tends to stay in place longer and may provide some barrier function between the metal components...much as one might see with wheel-bearings or on the bar that activates a magazine safety.
Grease can help seals out the outside world, so if i'm storing the firearm for longer period of time in my coastal setting, particularly as i don't generally have to be able to grab it and fire without first cleaning or degreasing it.... the i will apply a somewhat liberal protective layer of grease.