walnutty

Hi Guys, For some reason I've regained a renewed interest in the CZ platform. I just purchased a P-01 and it's still in the waiting period. There's just so many positive reviews regarding this gun so I decided to purchase one for myself. For my next CZ purchase I'm considering a Tactical Sport in 9mm just for general target shooting. I've read several reviews in this forum already but still have a few questions. 1. Do the new CZ TS in 9mm come with the regular mags that are used on the CZ 75? Will mec-gar mags fit? 2. Would the CZ TS be too much gun for just plain shooting fun? I'm also considering just a plain CZ 75B, but I'm still deciding if the doubled cost of the CZ TS justifies what I intend to shoot it for. I enjoy shooting a finely made firearm rather then several "low-end" basic models. However, I don't want a gun that will require special parts (like mags), etc. that will make my life complicated. Thanks in advance!

Yeah, I was using the loads that are meant for jacketed bullets. My speer manual gives a max of 4.6 grains but my Alliant brochure gives 4.9 grains. Lowering it to 4.5 grains is a possibility. I have a 13# recoil spring for my Sig and the lighter load should work here, but my SA 1911 will essentially end-up as a single shot. Still may be worth trying. I tend to like having a reload that works on several guns.

Hi Guys, I bought a couple thousand of these bullets awhile back. Loaded them to 1.120", with 4.8 grains of BE. My Sig P226 shot these quite decently over the weekend. On my SA 9mm Target, it was quite a different story--this is a tight gun with a match bushing, but the bullets won't group with this gun. When I started shooting with my SA, I started with my left-over reloads of 115 gr FMJ zero bullets w/ 4.8 gr of BE and it was shooting almost 1-hole groups at 30'. Switching to the 124 gr berry's quickly changed that. I've considered lowering the powder charge for my SA, but even with my current load it's still too weak to actuate the slide stop on the last round. The gun has a 9# recoil spring. I've used different brands of plated bullets in the past (115 gr plated Berry's) and had good luck with them, although I don't remember shooting them in my other 1911 in 9mm (have a couple of SA's in 9mm). Any input regarding this matter? I'd appreciate your experiences. Thanks in advance!

Hi Guys, I'm considering a CZ for my next pistol. Awhile back I read somewhere that CZ barrels are finished using a "carburization" process. Are CZ barrels harder than regular carbon or sts steel? The reason I ask is I like to be able to load bullets of different lengths and have a reamer for this. However, I don't want to damage my reamer if the steel that CZ uses is extra hard. Thanks in advance!

Very likely no. It would take too much work, plus the canadian P-16 mags are not of the highest quality. Per Mr. Tomasie, the P-16 hi cap mags are in the process of being redesigned (I don't when it will be complete). They don't plan on making a 10-round P-16 mag the last time I heard.

Hi Guys, I have a couple of 1911's that I would like to tweak and I'm seeking your advise. Gun #1. Barrel locks up ok for a production gun. I have a slide stop w/ a .200" pin installed but it appears that radial lug engagement is still not as high as my other 1911's. Would it be advisable to change to a longer link to improve lockup? I don't need the barrel to lock up tight, just want it to lock up higher. I'm aware that I need to make sure the back of the lower lugs should impact the VIS of the frame. Also, when the barrel unlocks, there is ample room/clearance between the top of the barrel and the inside slide radial lug surfaces. Gun #2. I love this gun. It has standard fixed sights (staked front) , but it shoots high (~1-1.5" @ 30 ft). Would it be advisable to change to a higher link if the gun specs allow it? I'm fully aware too that under ideal conditions that lower barrel lugs rest on the slide stop pin when the barrel is in full lock-up. However, only four of my several 1911's do this. The rest ride on the link. 3rd question: What is the proper way to measure link length? How does one know what length to buy? I'm assuming too that in trial fitting, I use a slightly undersized link pin to make the process easier? Thanks in advance!

Hi Guys, Thanks for all the input. I went ahead and purchased the manson reamer. After first speaking with their customer rep, I just got the throating reamer. However, I quickly realized that the chamber is tapered as well so throating the leades were insufficient to completely seat my LSWC loads. I went ahead and purchased the finish reamer also and this did the trick. I have shot 500 rounds through my Para and it was sweet. No more failures to chamber!

I have a SA longslide that SA refitted with a new match barrel and slide/frame tightened. This gun is pure awesome to shoot even with heavy loads. I feel like I'm cheating everytime I shoot this.

While there are really no truly drop-in kits, I have had so much satisfaction with the C&S Tactical 2 stainless kits, that I ended installing it in 3 of my 1911's. I still had to taper sides of the disco head to prevent it from peening open the disco slot in the disco track (just as a precaution). Also had to check fit to the thumb safety, adjusted sear tension, polished the some of the connection points (except the sear & hammer engagement surfaces). The resulting trigger pull in my P-14 is outstanding and as good as any 'smith can do. On my MC-operator it gave it a nice perfect roll. On my P-16, it was a lot better than stock but not as good as the 2 previous guns because the frame hole specs are slightly off. But it works better than out of the box and I'm about through fooling around with this P-16. Also needed a Colt hammer strut. On my P-14, the back of the trigger bow when pressed, would hit the hammer strut, and prevent the disco head from fully bottoming out. The Colt strut in thinner from front to back so it allowed the disco to come down properly. Hope this helps.

Hi Guys, I have a Para that I need to install a new ejector in. Previously, I was able to install one using Dawson's drill bit (after watching his Youtube video). Though it worked, I noticed that the process left a lot of swirl/rough marks inside this crosspin hole. It looked kinda nasty to me but I figured it was just a one-time deal. Because I did not shorten the ejector properly, i ruined it while shooting. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=167823&hl=%2Binstall+%2Bejector Now I have another new ejector to install. In my research I read several posts that advise against using a drill bit since this can enlarge the crosspin hole. Any experiences with this? Should I just forget about the drill bit and install the new ejector using the traditional method? (Have never done this before) I would appreciate your advise. Thanks in advance!

Merkava, unless you live in a 10-round (or less) state. It may be better for you to wait for Para's redesigned mags. I have a couple of new 10-rounders and they both activate the slide with one round still in the mag.

Thanks so much for the responses guys. I ended up going to Home Depot and bought a bottle of their Oatey dark cutting oil. I guess it's appropriate for steel. http://www.homedepot.com/p/16-oz-Dark-Thread-Cutting-Oil-302032/203461243 I throated a spare old colt barrel I had on hand (for practice) and it worked, so I used it on my Para also. The results were amazing. However, realized my Para chamber is on the shorter side so I will eventually need a finish reamer as well.

Hi Guys, I just received a couple throating reamers from Manson. On their website, it says to use cutting oil when using the reamers. Is this a special type of oil, or would any kind of gun oil work? What about motor oil? I have several brands of gun oil at home and hopefully wouldn't need to buy another bottle of oil. Also on these reamers, the back end is not square, but rather round with a couple of flats machined on each side. Will a regular T-handle adjustable tap wrench work, or do I need to use a special wrench? Thanks in advance.

Manson it is and it appears to be $15.00 cheaper than the Clymer from Brownells. Yes, it's for the 45 ACP. As a follow-up, would you guys think it's even necessary to buy the go-no go gauges?

Hi Guys, I realize that I may need a finish reamer for my Para P14 to help chamber my LSWC rounds better. I've heard of the brands such as Mansen or Clymer. What are the main differences between the two in terms of price, quality, and longevity? Are there other possible brands also? I think Midway carries the brand PTG. Don't know how are the quality on those. These go for around $100.00. Thanks in advance!

roklock, You will need a factory Para sear spring. They are longer, and have a different geometry on the middle leg that contacts the disco. If you use a Colt spring it may look fine until you pull the trigger back. You'll see the mid leg lose contact with the disco. I've been playing with my P-14 & P-16 for the last several months. Only the Para spring worked. Good luck!

Thanks guys for the advise. Yeah, I should have cut it shorter to begin with. Already contacted EGW. They want to look at the part. I'm not too sure I want to go through the trouble of refitting a new EGW ejectror though. Just too much work. Would an STI ejector be easier to fit? Thanks.

Another pic.

Hello Guys, I have a Para P-16 with a loose ejector so I decided to install an EGW 40 s&w ejector. I left the original length as is because it was able to clear a loaded round during function testing. Went shooting yesterday (100 rounds factory) and on the last round, the case mouth was crushed and wedged between the front of the ejection port and the ejector. Found out the ejector was bent down and left. I was able to remove the slide at home after bending the ejector again inwards to clear the slide. Is this ejector done with? Would you have another ejector recommendation that's easier to fit? This EGW required material to be removed from the sides (most difficult & time-consuming task), top, back, bottom of tip, etc. Thanks in advance!