Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

walnutty

Classified
  • Posts

    69
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by walnutty

  1. Hello Folks, I have a CZ TS in 40 that works flawlessly with my previous 180 LFP's. Recently reloaded some of these 155 gr RN SWC's. I got a lot of FTF's when loaded with the front of the bullet shoulder slightly above the case rim. (would do this several times per mag; mag holds 17 rounds) Lengthened COAL to 1.135". Much improved, but still got around 1-2 FTF's per mag. Lengthened to again to 1.140-1.142". Mid mag FTF's disappeared, but first round on full 17-round mag will always FTF when slingshotted or using slide stop. Feeding was very smooth. No first round FTF's when loading mag to 15 rounds. Mags were never loaded during storage so spring tension should be good. Is the idea here to load as long as possible? The bullet shoulder will begin to touch the barrel lead when loading to 1.145". Slightly over that the bullet shoulder will begin to stick to the lands. I guess I can try 1.145-1.147"? Is the 155 gr RNSWC just more temperamental to feeding issues? Thanks so much for your input!
  2. Thanks zzt for your input. I really appreciate it.
  3. Hello Guys, I have a bull barreled 1911 that has the reverse plug with the shoulder and the slide already cut for a barrel bushing. I would like to convert this pistol to a standard barrel/bushing set-up. I have read a few posts of people having successfully done this. My question is--can this new set-up leave the rear of the slide plug tunnel more prone to peening/cracking being that the area is thinner and does not have the reverse plug shoulder to support the hole? I have purchased an EGW reverse plug for a bushing gun. Unfortunately the OD of the plug shoulder is still slightly undersized compared to the reverse plug that came with the gun. The factory reverse plug for the bull barrel fit more snugly and offered more support to the plug tunnel. The EGW reverse plug has enough shoulder diameter to hold the spring but it is a loose fit (diameter wise) to offer any kind of support to the shoulder plug tunnel. I know many forum members here shoot their guns a lot so I am curious what your experience has been. Thank you in advance. BTW, the pistol is an SA TRP Operator.
  4. Yeah, it's better to wait. Both of my TS's shoot a little high with my loads.
  5. The standard wide paddle safety is cast. I like to purchase these a couple at a time from Midway. That case if one of them is out of spec, I can keep one and send the other back.
  6. I actually installed a WC wide paddle safety and it works quite well. I have installed this same safety on a few of my 1911's, and I found these quite easy to fit. You can also remove the sharp edges on the paddle to make it even more comfortable. WC has another one with narrow paddle. The workmanship on these is impeccable; however, they come with an oversized pin and it may not fit in your frame hole unless you turn down the pin diameter.
  7. I owned one briefly. Mine came with one grip screw cross-threaded from the factory. From my research, it appears this cross-threaded phenomenon is more common among the aluminium framed CZ's. The rubber grips usually has holes that are not properly aligned with the grip screw hole in the frame. Also the hole in the rubber grip is undersized and tends to grip the screw as it is inserted, making it difficult to feel when you are engaging the threads. Although I really like the feel of the P-01, I've decided to stay away from it again because of the above reason. Maybe the P-07 or steel CZ 75 compact would be another possibility.
  8. That peen mark on the lower right hole is common on production 1911's. It's caused by the thumb safety. A very good smith can modify a thumb safety by removing that sharp corner, however most small-time smiths probably don't even bother.
  9. I read somewhere awhile back that is is to enhance feeding of hollowpoints.
  10. Teflon tape? It's always worked for me. You still need to check the connection after your shooting sessions though.
  11. At the minimal, you need the plunger tube staking tool. They sell this at Midway (strobel) or Brownells (gunrunners). Extras: a drill bit to prevent to PT from collapsing; dremel ball cutter to put a small bevel in the hole inside the frame. There are several good resources on the web. One of them is located at Modern Service Weapons website. They have good pics also.
  12. I have been tinkering with 1911's for over 20 years. I could say now that I'm able to service my own 1911's for my intended use. However, I just started shooting cz's. Got a couple of TS' last year and they only needed chamber reaming, so that was easy. Just got an SP-01, and realized I'm quite tired of tinkering. Don't really have the energy now to even learn a new platform. Got my parts from CGW, and I'm in no hurry to do anything. Maybe in a few months. I plan on changing only the most necessary parts to get down to a sub-4# (single-action) trigger pull, then I'll consider this shootable for myself.
  13. It's under his facebook -- Gerard G. I saw his videos and they are very helpful.
  14. I too just picked up a brand-new SP-01 (had the black barrel also). The sample was perfect in every way. I've owned 6 CZ's, and still have 3 of them. Only one of them, a CZ-TS, had those same file marks on the bottom of the slide. The gun shoots wonderfully. The internal machining on the slide is also atrocious. I think CZ fits these slides into the frame. I've never heard of file/fitting marks on the frame, so I think the frames come out of the manufacturing process with very little need for further work. However, my guess is they try to find a slide that fits perfectly into a frame. If none can be found, they hand-file the bottom of the slide until it fits. Cosmetically, it looks crappy, but it's not considered a defect. The proof will be in the shooting, and I'm almost certain your gun will work fine.
  15. Tony, I've used Manson, and they're good. However, I recommend you buy the finish reamer. The throating reamer only moves the leade forward. However, this still doesn't fix any high spots or taper in the chamber which can still affect proper bullet chambering. The finish reamer cleans/trues the chamber-up, removes the taper, and moves the leade slightly forward. After doing this, you don't have to worry about OAL anymore. You can pretty much use any bullets you want. The finish reamer costs around $70.00 IIRC, and you'll need a decent tap wrench and cutting oil. If you're not comfortable with this, better just send your barrel to a competent smith. Good luck.
  16. Thanks guys for the input. I really appreciate it. Cali sucks!
  17. Hi Guys, Do any of you know of any reliability issues associated with these mags for us restricted-state folks? Thank you in advance!
  18. Ed Brown carries a FP for SA pistols. I just don't remember the product #. It's not always a drop-in part though. When the FP arrives, drop it into the FP channel in the slide and see if the tip-end comes out of the breech face. If it doesn't, the pin is still slightly oversized. You can insert the FP in your drill, wrap a fine grit sandpaper around the tip then turn. Take frequent measurements as the diameter of the tip is turned down. It will eventually fit into the breech face hole. Good luck.
  19. I owned an SA Loaded Target in 9mm and it was a very good shooter even with lead bullets. However, I installed a custom fit EGW bushing. Yes, the SA does have a generous freebore, and this is what allows you to use almost any bullet length and configuration. How is your bushing fit? If loose, I recommend going to EGW and pick out a bushing that fits closest to your barrel OD, and slide ID. Good luck.
  20. Your FTRTB issue is likely due to not having enough free-bore in your barrel. You will need to get your chamber finish reamed for that. The finish reamer will ensure your chamber is truly round, remove high spots and any taper, then move your leades slighly forward to allow you to use more variety of bullets shapes and OAL's. The measurements you gave (.400-.405") are just typical for lead bullets, even though they are advertised to be .401". Your 1st batch should give you decent accuracy unless your bore is grossly oversized. Good luck.
  21. I've read some articles in the past that 1911's with aluminum frames just don't last when used in a competition setting. It may also have to do with the way the slide impacts the frame. However, articles I've read were regarding the 45 ACP. Maybe the durability would be different when shooting with 9mm, especially with thickened dustcovers (for a rail).
  22. It's not difficult at all, however you do need to do it with finesse. Make sure to clean your reamer thoroughly before its first use to make sure it's free of chips. Buy some cutting oil. You can get the Oatey cutting oil from Home Depot for less than $10.00. You will need a decent tap wrench. Some of those cheap Chinese tap wrenches from Home Depot will not work--they will keep on slipping. Finally, I recommend you buy the finish reamer, rather than just the throater. Sometimes the chamber is out-of-round or has a taper in it. Using the finish reamer will take care of this and the freebore in one session. I've bought just the throaters before then realized I still needed the finish reamer to open up the chamber. You can actually rent the reamers FYI. There should be some info in these forums. Good luck!
  23. I bought a TS 9mm late last year. Been shooting for a couple of decades and have owned many pistols. That TS was the first pistol I shot exceedingly well during its first outing, and the ergonomics felt perfect for me. Most pistols I've owned needed some range time in order for me to feel proficient with, but not with the TS. Then I went on the hunt for a TS 40. I eventually found one and dropped the cash but I wondered if I made a mistake. I have taken it to the range 3 times since and I'd have to say it was not a decision I regret. I find this gun as enjoyable to shoot as my TS-9, with the bonus of finding the 40 S&W easier to reload than the 9mm. Always disliked the tapered case of the 9mm for reloading. I've had a couple thousand 40 S&W lead bullets, empty brass, dies, toolhead for over 4-5 years and this is the first time I ever reloaded for the 40 S&W. It is quite weird because I almost sold all of my 40 S&W equipment because they were just collecting dust. I enjoy shooting this 40 as much as my 1911's in 45 ACP. Never even imagined I would enjoy the 40.
×
×
  • Create New...