45PlottHound

Ok all I am looking for a good slug that I can use reloading both 9mm and 38 Super. Weight does not matter too much as it is a fun round, no matches just plinking. I have several 9mms and an EAA Match in 38 Super I would like to reload for. Lead or jacketed, it doesn't matter. I am currently using Winchester and Hornady 115gr round noses for my 9mm but have not started the 38S yet, the dies are on the way.

Sierra 168gr HPBT 41.6 grains of IMR4895 Winchester brass trimmed to 2.005 length Neck sized only, fire formed to my chamber Winchester Large Rifle primer Bullet set to .010" off the lands I have gone from jam fit to .025" off and .010" gave me the best results. I kept the targets ro my records and you can see the difference. The rifle is a Savage 10FP, bolt action. This load gives me a consistent chronographed 2675 ft/s (+/- 15ft/s) and shoots 5 shot groups at 200yrds that can be covered with a quarter. I also use this round out to 300yrds with similar results.

I agree totally. I have worked on 50 - 60 year old Bridgeports, one didn't even have a Y axis gib in it! If you don't have good tools to setup the machine you won't make very good parts either. If you don't know how to tram a head on a Bridgeport you won't get good parts either. Holes need to align and of the head isn't square all the holes won't line up. Over the years of being a machinist I have accumulated 2 tool chests full of tools, I'd hate to find out how much money I have spent. But it allows you to do very good work. Most people are not going to invest that much into equipment as a hobby. The average guy I know has Harbor Freight calipers not Starrett or Mitutoyo, good for reference but I wouldn't make any parts with them. A lot of people also don't realize that the average person may not have room for a full size machine. Has anyone here had to take the ram, head, and table off a Bridgeport to fit the base through a door into a basement? Those parts are not lite and tend to be awkward to move. I don't think I could knock the draw bar loose in my basement if I had to, and garages are for cars !

Vise wise you cannot go wrong with Kurt or Chick. They both make small versions of their angle lock vises. They are pricey though, but an be found used for a good price. If not then a the old reliable tool makers vise, a little more to setup and use due to the screw lock, but these are usually ground to tenths and are very stable.

Greenfield, Widia and Brubaker are good names. Buy as you need is a good way, I have not found a good set of taps in a kit. Most kits do not cover gun smithing sizes any ways. Most off the shelf kits have lousy taps that don't cut metal well and usually out of spec. I keep on hand at least 6-40 and 8-36, for most rifle applications. These taps can be bought from Mcmaster-Carr, mcmaster.com and MSC, mscdirect.com. Try not to use TiN coated taps on aluminum, even with lube the aluminum can stick to the TiN coating and cause problems. There are several types of taps as well. Spiral point aka "gun" taps that push the chip in front of the tap, for thru holes, spiral flute "machine taps" that pull the chip out of the hole, "taper" for starting the threads, "plug" for continuing the threads and "bottom" for tapping blind holes very close to the bottom. The only difference on the last 3 are the number or threads in the lead-in, how tapered the tip is. Each tap size will need a specific drill size as well. Have fun and good luck.

OK speaking as a former machinist and now a ballistics engineer, that machine can do almost all hand gun work. A Bridgeport would be nice. I have almost the exact machine and have done everything you would need from barrel fitting work to sight work on 1911s, XDms and so on. I do have 10 years as a tool and fixture guy, on a Bridgeport, I also have all the tools, dial indicators, micrometers and so on. The biggest limitation is the Z axis for depth, there is no real easy depth stop like the quill on a knee mill but you can over come it. If its what you have the room for its workable. The most important thing on a machine it keep it square, keep the tools rigid, and have a good vise!! You cant make anything correct if you cant cut this square. If you can find one they make ti in an R-8 spindle so it can use Bridgeport collets and it will also come with .050 per revolution handles. When you start machining you will find them much better than the .0625 per rev. A Bridgeport has .200 per rev, they both work well with .200 diameter edge finders. FYI I have used 1.5" carbide shell mills in stainless on one of these, not easy but it can be done. Have fun and learn all you can.