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rboyes

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Posts posted by rboyes

  1. So what I do to help manage recoil and thus get my sights back on target quicker. If you role your shoulder forward it shifts your pocket onto the outside of your chest and over your pectoral and rib cage. This provides both a large flat surface for your butt pad to push against and the stoutest part of your upper body. Now tighten up your chest muscle behind the gun to give it a nice firm surface to push against. Bend your knees and lean is a little, getting your weight over your toes and fire your gun. Track the front sight like a pistol and see what it does. Once you establish the movement pattern of the muzzle, then try adjusting the gun and your muscles to adjust the pattern. This will provide both a flatter shooting gun and will force you to see the front sight better. The better you can track the sights the faster you will see the sights on target and will thus speed up. I only pull the shotgun in tight enough to maintain the good cheek weld and for the gun to not move around in the pocket. Likewise, I only tighten my arms enough to hold the gun in place. I suppose I tighten up my arms and wrists the same as when I shoot my pistol. When running my pump I have to loosen up my left arm a bit to operate the pump. I actually, developed this technique while trying to learn to shoot my 308 rifle really fast.

    Disclaimer. I feel a little weird writing this because there are much better shotgun shooters out there than me. I'm certain there are others with better/more refined techniques. That is just what I have developed on my own.

    This. I'm 5'8 and 145lbs and shoot either an M2 or a Supernova. Its all about proper stance. With my stature I need to have a more aggressive stance whereas a larger person wouldn't have to stand as aggressively as I do. Grip is likea pistol. Firm with both hands but not a death grip. Even with the pump the gun still bounces a little of course, but the sights come back on target pretty quickly.

  2. I heard back from ATC. They said the the SR Gold trigger's hammer measures .025" taller when in the cocked position (compared to a regular AR Gold), so that plus dimensonal differences between different 308 AR's is the problem. I swapped a regular AR Gold from a .223 rifle into my JP 308 and it works correctly during dry-firing, though I will have to confirm at the range this weekend. The SR Gold also worked fine in my .223.

    If it doesn't work when I bring it out to the range, they said I can send the trigger back in for hammer replacement. Thumbs up to ATC for good customer service.

  3. I will have to check when I get home. Just going off feel, I think the hammer is dragging more than normal on the bcg well before the bcg is all the way to the rear. I will experiment with some different buffers.

    I don't think the issue is with the face of the trigger (ie the top when it is cocked) but rather the left side as viewed in the above photo. It seems as though when it hits the sear hook it limits the amount the hammer can travel.

    I've also emailed ATC to see if they had any ideas.

  4. I'm trying to install a SR Gold trigger into my JP PSC12 308. I have a new SR Gold, and one that is a few years old from a build using Mega Arms receivers. Both the new and old trigger work perfectly in the Mega Arms build, but neither work right in the JP.

    With the new SR Gold in the JP, it fires fine, but when holding the trigger back and charging the rifle, the bolt carrier rides against the hammer to the point that the bcg binds in place. See here in this video: http://youtu.be/DD0nW7zJ1I4

    I believe the binding is due to the new trigger design. Check out the below photo. The newer SR Gold is in the receiver, and has more of a heel to the hammer, while the older one is relieved.

    Regarding my older SR Gold, when dropping the hammer and then releasing the trigger I then charge the rifle, and the hammer goes to half cock. The hammer is not being pushed down far enough to get to full cock on the primary sear. It seems as though I have two triggers that are different extremes, but they both work in one rifle and neither work in another- how is that possible? Any thoughts?

    image.jpg

  5. I mount my aimpoint t1 all the way forward on the receiver. The optic has a small field of view compared to other red dots, and it is such a small size that putting it forward allows for much more vision around the body of it. Also mine has a 4 moa dot, so mounting it forward along with turning the power down aids in precision for longer distance targets.

  6. There is no one size fits all when it comes to acheiving a more solid position from barricades. Typically I find that more points of contact are better than less. Another big factor is flexibility. I'm slim and can get myself lower to the ground or tuck a knee in tighter. Depending on the barricade I will put the magwell up against the barricade and have my support hand in front clamping down (such as on a 3GN plywood barricade).

    Best bet is to try different things and see what results in the least reticle movement. Also remember that the most stable position may not be the best; the best could be a compromise of stability plus speed -standing vs kneeling vs prone against said barricade. It depends on shot difficulty plus amount of time to get into and out of that position.

  7. I use a Aimpoint micro for Heavy metal irons and went the other way- I put it far forward on the receiver. Mine has the 4 moa dot and I find that a consistent cheek weld alleviates any issue of seeing the dot. Also, I think it aids in precision along with making the dot less bright for longer range shots.

    For the OP, try it both ways and see what you like. Run some drills with it each way and see what gives you faster times/better hits.

    I doubt you will feel the weight difference - I don't. You WILL notice the smaller field of view, which makes it slower to acquire the dot at speed. If you must switch to the T1, mount it as far back on the upper receiver as possible (i.e. closest to your eye) to be as forgiving of head position as possible. This means you need to use a mount that will not interfere with your ability to operate the charging handle (i.e. with the latch/nut on the right side).

    Personally, I would look at things like the barrel, handguard etc. to minimize weight.

  8. Thank you to Charles, Steve, the RO's and the sponsors for a great match. There was a good mix of natural terrain as well as bays, and it was nice to see a fair amount of long range rifle mixed in. Stage 7 was definitely the most challenging for me, shooting the triangles at 200 yards with a 4 MOA Aimpoint was tricky, and it felt good to only leave one plate standing (and not time out). What was the size on those triangles anyways?

  9. Go with the mil-prf for the best ballistic protection. It is superior to z87. I found a video a few years ago showing the difference when shot with a bb, I don't recall the velocity but there is a large difference in protection offered. Also, while a riccohet may come straight back, you may not be the shooter, so I prefer wraparound lenses (I use m frames).

  10. I just used the Sierra 125gr match king running about 2950 from an 18" barrel at the He-man nationals and had no issue hitting out to 660 yards (first round hit). They have a flat base, but vld like ogive profile. I have a 1000 155 Amaxs sitting unused in my reloading room because the 125s velocity increase makes up for the 155 bc advantage at common 3 gun distances (I've got better accuracy with them too).

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