rboyes
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Posts posted by rboyes
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If you look close is the rim of the shell hitting the bolt release lever in the receiver. Mine does that and a slight nudge and it goes into battery. Not sure what the fix is for that.
This. My M2 had that issue for a while and my fix was removing some material from the offending spot on the bolt release and then polishing it up.
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An extended choke is not required. It just makes choke removal easier since you can use fingers instead of a wrench, and the choke constriction is labeled on it for easy verification. The general consensus is typically that a light modified choke is the one to get if you are only going to have one. Its recommended to have several to better adapt your shotgun for various courses of fire. I have a 26" M2 and 26" Supernova and have cylinder, skeet, improved cylinder, and light modified chokes.
i need a choke tube for my benelli m2 18.5 in shotgun, just got he gun and need a extended choke i think because the barell is so short.
what choke ? mod IM? full? keep in mind i have a short barell.
would love to find a stock also if anyone has a extra NON pistol grip black stock around.
My 13 yr old son and I are new to 3 gun and are going to share the shotgun.
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I have a 16" JP 308. As long as your bullet and powder combo gives good accuracy then keep using it. Using a faster powder would be more ideal for a 150gr bullet, but I value accuracy more than velocity. I use 8208 with 155 Amaxs and get around 2670 fps.
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I think the evenness of the two equipment classes would be greatly depends on the match. Yes Pat, you could win with irons, but the division would need to be geared towards the average shooter. I think the classes would be more even if the pump gun went with the optic division. The average shooter does much better with an optic, especially on longer distance targets. The average shooter also does better with a semi auto shotgun. Keep the pistol even between classes. Even with these changes I think equipment class would be skewed depending on the match. Something like RM3G, give me the rifle optic. Lots of close in hoser stuff, I'll take the semi auto 12g.
That being said I still don't like it. not sure there is a best answer. Discounted entry for He-Man shooters?
I still think that this will improve the participation in the Heavies.
How about just within HM one hit for rifle and pistol?
How about after that....we make HM one SCORED division with two classes of equipment.
HM Optics 20/308 Rifle 10/45 Pistol and 8+1 Auto Shotguns (12 bore)
HM Iron (1x) No mag capacity restriction/308 Rifle 140MM mag length max/45 Pistol 8+1(at start) Pump (12 bore)
I know I have chatted with a couple of HM shooters that are NOT entrenched in one way or another and our
opinion was neither class of equipment had an advantage so both would be viable.
I for one would run the HM (1x) Iron against the HM Optics. for the win.
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Depends on what he attends to accomplish, ie target shooting, varmint, etc. But, for minimal 308 recoil as the only requirement I recommend a light bullet pushed by fast powder. Something in the 110 or 125gr range and a powder such as Reloder 7 or equivalent. I've used that combo for creating a hoser load for close up 3 gun matches where a velocity and ballistic coefficient is of no advantage. Again, depends on what he wants to do. If its hunting then that would obviously change things.
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If you are only using it for Heman nationals and no other hoser type shooting then I'd go no shorter than 18". Especially if using true irons. I'd lean towards a 20". Extra velocity and you aren't giving up much since there is minimal amount of close up targets requiring quick transitions. Twist depends on the bullets you want to use. Contour is also personal preference. Again, a heavier gun isn't as detrimental at that match. A few reasonably priced barrels include Black Hole Weaponry and Criterion, among several others.
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It can be done with the right magazines. I was able to load them at least 2.3" in HK mags (I forget the exact oal). They functioned fine, but accuracy and velocity were poor. The experiment was worth a try but the Hornady 75gr bthp are the way to go.
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My Supernova is a 26" barrel and has a 13 round tube which is clearly well past the end of the barrel. Buy whichever length you can get sooner/cheaper.
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I have a hard time putting much stock in that Adams Arms review since the author doesn't note what ammo he tried. Was it 55gr fmj or 69gr SMK? Don't know, and it can make a huge difference.
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I didn't bother. Just use the teklok as normal. I added velcro to the back of the teklok for extra grip on the inner belt, and use the ELS forks for all my other belt mounted gear.
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I have both a 5" and 6" barreled STI's in 9mm. The 5" is an Eagle, and the 6" is an Edge with a 5" slide with a sight tracker barrel. Both have lightened slides. The 6" is quite a bit heavier, and while both feel great the 6" is nicer. I like the extra sight radius and a little extra velocity won't hurt either since they are primarily used for 3 gun. When in a match, I don't notice the additional weight of the 6" gun, nor does it seem to slow down transitions.
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That's right, you had a name my brake thread on here awhile ago, I'm gonna have to go read that again it was pretty funny. It certainly appears to be an effective unit, although I imagine the operator has his technique tuned well enough he could make any brake look good. Maybe I'll go buy a 308 just to have a home for this brake...
There is more difference between various 308 brakes than there is between 223 brakes. For example, my JP 308 came with their Cooley comp. It works well enough, but the difference is quite noticeable between it and something like a Hot Gates or Titan.
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I also use Mike's brake on my 308. I have a second 308 that uses a Titan. Both are extremely effective at mitigating recoil and keeping sights on target. The Hot Gates 762 is shorter, lighter, and slightly less blastly (though I don't notice either when I'm the shooter, only RO'ing).
Here's a few videos with my Hot Gates equipped JP PSC12 308:
www.youtube.com/embed/Crq5-_XUn1g?list=UUzPw9bqPW967u45eU_F7bZQ
www.youtube.com/embed/4HUWbnWVC84?list=UUzPw9bqPW967u45eU_F7bZQ
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My M2 only has a front fiber optic. My Super Nova has Dawson pistol sights with an adjustable rear. Both styles work well.
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Halfway down the hand guard, elbows bent, arm muscles tight, index finger pointed towards the target. The video points out an opportunity in recoil management, which most people miss.
I hold the same. I'm 5'8" 140lbs and my 308 doesn't move much. Also key is the lower body, maintaining aggressive stance weight slightly forward.
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I'm also fighting the temptation to change my TO to HI and run my Garand. Because PING!
Don't fight it, come to the dark side.
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Whenever it is held next I will try to get there to RO it again.
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I replied to the email but if I don't hear back by morning will send another. Don't want to lose my spot.
Ditto, I also sent an email to check the status.
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Have all the invoices been sent out? I signed up at 9:01, hope it wasn't too late.
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Probably better off with a slower powder for a light bullet. Its not like a pistol, we need more pressure at the gas port so a slower powder should work better.
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Use a Mil based reticle- calibrated for any load.
I use a Kahles with half mil increments, and my back up scope is a USO with a Lund reticle which is calibrated for the 69 smk traveling 2850 fps.
Both styles work well. It's more about being comfortable with your equipment.
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If you look at ballistics numbers you will find diminishing returns for an increase on barrel length. At some point (opinion based) the extra velocity is no longer worth the extra weight or maneuverability. Going from a 16" to an 18" or an 18" to a 20" won't make a huge difference in terms of windage. Depends on how far you expect to shoot of course.
For what it's worth when I bought my JP 308 for heavy metal earlier this year I went with a 16" barrel. I found, according to quickload, about 80 fps difference from 16" to 18", which was very little additional windage .
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Chamber flags are like gun laws. They make some people feel better but don't actually prevent stupidity.
Benelli M2 jams
in Shotgun - Technical
Posted
I reduced the size of the step, angled it a bit, and polished it. That stopped the shells from causing the bolt to hang up just as it started its forward movement. The step I'm referring to is above the centerline of the spring.