RePete
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Posts posted by RePete
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6 minutes ago, Jim Watson said:
I found I was doing better with a revolver with a trigger stop - pin in the trigger blade - than one without even though the one without has a lighter and maybe smoother DA stroke.
So, to save having the trigger drilled, I cut and filed a rod for the rebound spring.
It helped me.
Jim be careful that the rebound pin does bend or break.
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11 hours ago, pskys2 said:
Some old PPC guys would do it at the 50 yard line. Think JM did it at 100 yard+ trick shots, looked like it from the video.
When I shot PPC 40 years ago I was taught never to stage the trigger just a steady pull and follow through.
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Good, a waste of time and effort!
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The Rollsizer.com machine doesn't condition the rim whereas the CasePro100 does.
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Dillon has always stated that lube is required.
From their web site.
For high volume users, such as commercial reloaders, law enforcement agencies, and high power or service rifle competitors, we also offer .223 and .308 die sets with a full-length carbide sizing die. Lubrication is still required, but the increased scratch resistance and die longevity of carbide are of great benefit to these groups of users.
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4 hours ago, Farmer said:
Don’t think I’ve ever seen a carbide sizer die for bottle neck cartridges. Something new??
Nothing new, Dillon Precision make them for .223 and .308 but you still MUST lube the cases.
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I remove the trigger stops from inside the rebound spring because other shooters have had the pin break.
I have installed a trigger stop in the trigger using the screw with the rubber tip, and it was a spongy feel.
I do not use them anymore.
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9 minutes ago, Llando88 said:
I don't currently see a 509T user manual available in my location (USA), only the 509T-X2. I am assuming the 509T is not a model sold here? If you can summarize the changes between a 509T-X2 and a 509T, I'll be happy to mod the 509T-X2 card.
I wonder if this is what you are looking for?HE509T-RD-user-manual.pdf
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Just use a little more lube than normal, not on the neck though.
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1 hour ago, HappyCamper said:
I have no personal experience with the small base dies so I don't know this for certain, but, if they operate like full length dies, I don't think they would be able to size the case close enough to the base to work. Now that you mention this, that gives me the idea that a roll sizer may be what is needed.
Most of my brass is scavenged so I don't know it's history, and, maybe I hit a pile of identical brass that was all full auto fired. But, so far, the only brass I have had problems with all have the same headstamp. That's why I was wondering if there is something up with that kind of brass. Kinda like that 9mm brass with the stepped case wall thickness or 45acp with small primer pockets, which both have made my reloading life more difficult than it needs to be.
Thanks for the replies.
SB dies are smaller in diameter and do size further down the brass. I have resized machine gun brass without issue other than they are a bit harder to pull the lever down, just use a bit more lube on the body - and eat more Wheaties!
As for stepped brass and SP 45ACP, no issues other than making sure that you sort out the 45.
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What Ben53 said.
The brass is more than likely machine gun fired.
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I used Hoppes #9 and just wiped them down. Easy peasy.
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I my area it's G17/34, CZ's, Canik, 1911, P320, some revolvers.
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2 hours ago, 10mmdave said:
Can you use an SDM Super Sight in it ?
According to SDM's site yes.
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17 minutes ago, Toolguy said:
Wasn't he Cow's brother?
You nob Warren, I almost snort out tea when I read that.
I had to laugh though.
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I use Ready Tactical pouches and holster and think that they are the bees knees, but alsa they don't appear to make the any more. Purchased from Chris Patty.
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JM has a clip where he uses a weiner fto simulate a finger when shooting. Not only does it cook the weiner but cuts/tears it too.
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Very nice.
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I installed them in my STI Trojan (45) and after 300rds they were toast, I took them out never to be used again.
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^^^^^^^^^^^^This^^^^^^^^^^
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All I use is Breakfree CLP for 25 + years and prior to that Hoppes #9 oil.
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On 2/1/2022 at 1:52 PM, 10mmdave said:
Nobody's mentioned the setcrew thru the bottom of the grip yet ??
There are pic's here on BE, you drill & tap a 6-32 or 8-32 hole perpendicular to the strain screw, drop in a piece of lead shot or a short piece of brass rod
into the hole b4 you add the setcrew then tighten down.
This mod allows you to adjust your main spring weight which in this "primer pandemic" is something I'm thinking of doing since for 2022 it looks like I'll be
using Fed primers for big matches and Winchester and possibly CCI's for practice/smaller matches
You mean this?
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30 minutes ago, TREE said:
After I swung the half moon in place I didn’t have any more issues with it throwing the primers. BUT for the first time today I had two primers go off as they were getting installed into the brass. That part sucks, thank goodness for PPE.
I bet that the brass was NT.
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I can rollsize 9mm, 38SP, 40S&W, and 45ACP.
For .223 and .308 I use SB dies.
Trigger Stop
in Revolver Forum
Posted
A bit of dirt cause cause the rod to lengthen and bend/break the pin. As I stated above, other shooters have had the pin or break.