TimH

I couldn't agree more! Stages were awesome! Staff was fantastic! Terrific match! I'll definitely be back!

Just pull the firing pin block and plunger spring out of the slide. As for the lever arms in the frame, you can get a frame plate from Brownells and such that replaces those two parts for like $20 or so. It'll improve the trigger quality as well

understandable amish_rabbi

Thanks so much!! Unless you shoot .40 in limited or any other division, where the same ammo can cross over to the SS gun or you are just trying to save money on components (what little extra it costs for .45), I just don't understand the infatuation with .40 in a SS pistol. I had a .40 1911 for a couple years but just didn't shoot it enough to justify keeping it. I sold it and have stuck with .45 caliber for SS. I do have a 9mm SS minor gun I'm putting together to shoot with as there are matches I see that can favor 10 rds. The .45 Max can be found just about anywhere now and it will eat any ammo you feed it. Mine hasn't been finicky at all with regards to bullet type, weight, OAL, etc.

A little late to the party I know, but yes I have and compete in SS with a Sig Max .45. I absolutely love the gun. I did have an issue with the extractor tension being entirely too tight when I first got it. Easily remedied. I have removed the series 80 components to aid in reliability in competition, but other than that, I've literally done nothing to the pistol except shoot it. I've run approximately 8K rounds through it now as well. It's been rock solid. I'm shooting Area 4 next Friday with it in SS. The gun is easily good enough to win ANY match you shoot with it! Tim Herron TY68934

I am a lefty that definitely uses the trigger finger to activate the mag release. I don't shift the gun at all. I also know of a few righty shooters that have switched to the right side safety to do the same action and they like it a lot. Best part about it is that it's hard to get called for finger in the trigger during a reload! LOL And yes, TGO shifts the gun a lot to manipulate the mag release! It obviously doesn't affect him though!

Sent Adi. Thanks!

Well guys, I appreciate all of the input you've given me about the gun and setup. Unfortunately, I'm a SS shooter first and foremost and had the opportunity this last weekend to get my hands on a brand new SS gun to start breaking in for next season. Therefore, in order to offset the cost of the new pistol, I've decided to put the Para up for sale with everything I have for it. Only thing is that I can't list it here on Benos, because I haven't the prerequisite 50 posts to do so... Anybody got any ideas? Anyone interested in a great gun with lots of mags and goodies installed? Let me know! Tim Herron TY68934 (816) 332-9067

Shouldn't have to cut springs to get 17 to fit reliably. 18 is a push but can be done. What spring are you using? I installed ISMI 140 mm springs in my mags and they work great. All feeding issues are fixed, however, with the new mag springs, I can only fit 17 rounds reloadable in to mags now...Which I'm still good with.

I have a .40 SS gun and use Wilson ETM mags. They work ok, however, you will have issues where a round in the mag can inadvertently engage the slide stop because those mags don't have 40/10mm ribs to keep the rounds stacked correctly. That has been my only downfall with those mags. I'd go with a dedicated 10mm mag and load long. Tends to be the best, trouble free way to go

Thanks Jake! Merle Edington has his STI Limited setup that he'll let me work with to compare. I was also figuring roughly $2500 for a good STI with mags and such. I've found a couple used with mags in the $1600-$1800 ballpark but I'm still quite a bit lower than that invested in my Para complete. I do have capability to load .40. But my ammo sponsor has had a easier time with 200/230gr .45 to keep me shooting, hence why I've stayed in SS all year running my 45 and parked the .40. I think I'll give the Para a fair shake down after my last major this weekend. Have a few locals till winter break to ease my curiosity about it! Thanks everyone for the input!

Hi guys, I generally shoot SS div and have for about 3 years. I've been wanting to make the transition to Limited div but have had a hard time finding a solid 2011 within my budget. I came across an older Para Limited 14-45 in awesome shape that I picked up for a STEAL along with 6 mags. I bought a magwell, F/O front sight and Dawson ext. basepads and tuned the mags. they hold 18 reloadable and gun runs great! My question is: How much (if any) am I going to be held back shooting a Para .45 vs. a 2011 platform .40? Especially at A/M class level? Am I setting myself up for letdown before I even start? Just curious if a good running .45 can still be a contender, or if I should ditch it in search af a 2011 platform. Tim Herron TY68934

Don't think of it as an "A", "B", "C" etc... I know of a few guys that have remarkably fast and good draws that hover around 1.0-1.1 that are "C" and "B" shooters. A good draw is just a spec of measure of a shooters classification. I'm in complete agreement with your statement of just have a little more work to do....Don't we all!!

I wasn't doubting that when increasing speed, that you chance bad grip or bad shots... the OP was asking what draw times are for an "A" class shooter on a 12" plate at 10yds was. I'm just thinking that 1.35-1.4 sec. was just a bit on the slow side of things for an "A" class....Especially if the OP shoots steel. Stand and shoots are where a good (AND fast) draw would definitely come into play right?

Wow!! 1.35-1.40 sec? For some reason, I would have thought a little faster than that for someone shooting "A" class. I was figuring somewhere around 1.1-1.2 on average at that distance. But I'm not very sure....

Would you want them as you see it. A framed B-27 target? Or do you just want me to build the circuit for you? No, there is an adjustable resister, potentiometer, that you adjust to the ambient light. I set mine where I was going to use it during the day opened all the blinds and turned on all of the lights and then adjusted it for that. Dont have to touch it after that. Basically the plexi acts as the pickup. The light sensors attach to the edge, this way they do not see as much ambient light. This way you can have a larger strike zone. The sensors are not much bigger then a pencil eraser. Your increasing its ability to detech light over a larger area. I'm very interested in one of these as well!! BTW, with the username "CSPCRX" I take it you're an autocrosser as well? Or at least did? Curious to know who I'm talking to Haha! Same here...LOL Tim Herron TY68934 or in the SCCA world... #95 STU '11 WRX