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Mike21STI

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Posts posted by Mike21STI

  1. I worked as an SO and shot at the winter nationals. I did hit a nonthreat but no procedurals or FTN's, I was happy to have won my class and got the bump from Sharpshooter to Expert!! This match was one of the first ones where I can say I was happy with my performance through most of the match (I tanked the pick up gun stage).

  2. This is another one of those preference questions. you will find that some people swear by them and state that they protect your gun but you'll also hear horror stories on how they screwed up a stage. I personally don't use them anymore just because I didn't see a need for an additional thing to worry about when making my gun run.

  3. I'm thinking about starting to shoot USPSA and I currently have a 1911 in 9mm, however I want to shoot major and was thinking about buying an upper chambered in .40, can I easily interchange the two? do I have to change anything else aside from getting the new slide, barrel, bushing, magazines, firing pin, and block?

  4. I have a Sentry in 9mm and it has run flawlessly with factory ammo, STI factory mag and Tripp mags. I ended up changing the magwell to a DP Ice magwell, the recoilmaster guide rod to a full length standard. While I do prefer the checkering on the front strap over the STIppling, if I were to do it again I'd get the Trojan because I basically cancelled out two of the major differences with it compared to the Trojan.

  5. I've had better luck with the Wilson 10 round mags than the mccormick, and I don't think you'd have to do any trimming to get them to fit. I have the Ice magwell (with gap) and will test to be sure (right now its on my 9mm 1911).

  6. I run a 9# in my Sentry with factory loads. I ran a 10# also both functioned flawlessly, i just switched to the 9 haven't had a reason to change it out, i don't think there is a huge difference between the 9 or 10 spring in perceived recoil. I don't think there is a noticeable difference in slide speed between those 2 weight springs either but I may not pay attention to it enough to be able to tell the difference.

  7. in order to get my Nighthawk to make weight in CDP, I replaced the FLGR with an aluminum FLGR, I also replaced the Alumagrips with the Ergo (hard rubber) grips. That brought it under the weight limit for CDP. I think the aluminum guide rod replacing the steel guide rod lost about .8 of an ounce. picked it up from Briley.

  8. I bought a Sentry, if i were to do it again, I would have done what others suggested and ordered the Trojan from Brazo's. Reason being is I already replaced the RM with a FLGR and I've replaced the magwell with a DP Ice magwell (two of the main differences from the Spartan or the Trojan). I forgot to mention mine is in 9mm and i felt minimal difference in recoil with the RM not that there is much recoil out of a 1911 9 anyways.

  9. I'd recommend the STI, I've had a few kimbers and liked them but I prefer the STI over the Kimber. When I was looking for my 1911 in 9mm I landed on the STI Sentry from the factory but if I were to do it over again, I would have gotten the Trojan from Brazos.

  10. don't bother with the extended slide stop. I've found it is not worth the time to work on them to get them to function properly in your gun. I had a Wilson one in my old Kimber and it consistently wouldn't lock the slide back (not from me riding the safety). I replaced it with the factory one and the problem went away. This year they made it legal for ESP to have extended slide stops so i figured i'd take my chances with another brand for my STI (found it on ebay) and had an issue where the slide locked back after every round. I was mad at this point because I had invested my time to refinish the part (it was supposedly stainless steel, but definitely didn't look it until filed and sanded at it for a while). I decided that it was not worth the aggrevation when my gun was functioning flawlessly without it. so I'm back to the stock slide stop and haven't looked back. Just my opinion. Hope you have better luck with it than I did.

    Mike

  11. I have an STI Sentry and it came from the factory with a 5.5lb pull. I thought that was high so I got a trigger job done by a gunsmith in CT. He did a great job, took out the creep and brought the pull down to 3.25lb. it feels 100 times better than it was and my shots on target have been much better since.

  12. I've owned a bunch of different 1911's, I've had a Dan Wesson, 4 different Kimbers, a Smith and Wesson 1911, then I ended up getting a Nighthawk custom Talon that I use in CDP for IDPA. Great gun but too expensive.

    I do own a STI Sentry in 9mm and never had issues with it. I found out the hard way that you can get an STI that functions just as well as the "custom" guns and they are a lot less expensive.

  13. have a 15 in now and the gun wont go bang...i went with the 15 to try and speed the slide up a bit by letting the hammer be lighter less pressure ...i assume i need a long firing pin and a lighter firing pin spring? or just go to the 17 and see what happens? i think there as a 19 before i changed anything? Ideas

    Why do you want to increase the slide speed? Have you radiused the firing pin stop? That can make as much, or more, difference than a change in mainspring weight.

    I don't want to offend anybody, but for folks thinking they're going to see a difference in how flat the gun is, or how the dot tracks by changing just the mainspring a couple of pounds....well, you're looking in the wrong place. Hey, I'm not the world's greatest, but when I shoot ammo over the chrono, I can't see a difference in the dot tracking between rounds that are 50-75fps different from one another, so I absolutely don't believe taking off a slight bit of reisistance (it's not a direct relationship because there's a pivot point (FPS) involved) is going to make a huge difference. I'm sure there's some minor difference, but I'd bet a paycheck nobody would be able to tell which is which in a blind test. You change something, you're expecting to see results, so you really pay attention and things seem to be different....kind of like how your car seems to run better after an oil change and a wash. At the very least, it's such a small change that you're far better off looking other places for performance gains. R,

    Bart, How would one go about radiusing the firing pin stop? is it difficult to do?

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