mizer67
-
Posts
253 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by mizer67
-
-
I had a 9mm FS with about 6-7K through it at the time of Titegroup and FMJ bullets. There was heavy carbon fouling like you described against the lands.
Nothing I tried would budge it. Hoppes, Butches, boretech, CLP, brake cleaner, etc. barely made a dent, even after liberal brushing with bronze brushes and scotchbrite pads.
Eventually I tried JB Bore Paste. After 70-80 passes with a patch, mixed with some brushing, it finally came clean.
-
Power Pistol is a VERY loud powder. Also LOTS of flash. Hence why I used the term "hand cannon".
Recoil is similar to most other powders in that burn range, IMO. You will get more muzzle flip with 115s vs. heavier bullets.
-
In my Gen4 17, the new 30274 ejector seems to have cured this problem entirely.
-
I'm near Tampa, FL.
-
I couldn't find any posts on youtube or GT.
I was thinking a Bar Sto, possibly Javis since fitting is so much cheaper.
-
Who are some of the best smiths to fit a Glock match barrel?
Buy a mirror and a file. The mirror to see your best smith, the file to fit the barrel.
Best not to turn a monkey loose with a file.
I'd love to learn how but don't know of anyone local that can teach me. I'm too chicken to try it myself without help.
-
Who are some of the best smiths to fit a Glock match barrel?
-
On my Giraud, there's a tiny amount of slop in the shell holder.
If you push the brass to one side or another when trimming, you'll end up with that type of effect. You need to keep it entirely vertical and not exert any pressure in any direction other than straight down. Conversely, if you extert pressure in one direction, you need to keep it constant throughout the trim and rotation of the case.
I've never seen brass come out of mine nearly as bad as yours, though.
Once you've induced any case neck run out in your brass, it's hard to fully correct. I would suggest trying 100 rounds of new brass before throwing in the towel. Trim 10-20 from factory length back to ~1.740" or similar, and see if you get the same results.
If new, unfired brass trims true, you have a partial answer.
Next, try sizing 10-20 new cases without the decapping rod and sizing ball as other suggested, then trimming them back .01". If they trim true, then you likely have decapping rod induced run out.
-
WWB is the most inconsistent factory ammo with respect to ejection, IMO.
My first suggestion is to change the ammo you are shooting and try again. If you get the same results, you can try the following:
1.) Install a WSD HRED - Works to strengthen the ejection pattern in guns that are running well otherwise, in my experience. Some report better ejection patterns as well.
2.) Install a LWD extractor - different angle on the extractor and different fit in the frame may help.
3.) Change the angle and length of the ejector
4.) Install a new factory trigger housing and ejector (some tolerances will stack up differently with different trigger housings and ejectors combined).
5.) Change the timing through a new RSA and spring weight.
My experience with a Gen4 G17 is that the ejector and extractor will make the biggest immediate difference. Since there's not another ejector option in .40 S&W and I can't tell you what angles to cut on your ejector, I'd try a LWD extractor as the quickest, most likely, drop-in fix if you continue to have problems after changing ammo brands.
If none of that works, there's a post by Randy Lee at Apex Tactical on another forum that attributes the inconsistent ejection pattern in Glocks to the cases hitting the ejection port. He lowers the ejection port to solve the issue for some guns.
-
I read recently that Apex is working on a new, wider sear housing block and bar stock trigger bar.
I imagine your best bet aside from custom smithing would be to install the Apex locking block and sear housing block, or to send it off to Smith if it has accuracy issues.
-
I sent my G17 G4 back to the factory for FTE issues. They installed a new extractor, new 30274 ejector and trigger housing.
Previously, in stock form, I had 12 FTEs in 900 rounds, and consistently had 10-20% of brass ejected to the forehead, left, forward, over the shoulder, @ 12 o'clock, etc.
Then I started switching out parts (LWD extractor, Jager and 13 lb. ISMI and WSD HRED). I also filed the ejector back and changed the angle. After those changes I had 3 FTEs in 1,937 rounds. I was still getting 10% erratic ejection.
With the new parts, primarily the ejector (I believe) I now have a gun that runs 100% and ejects consistently to 3-4 o'clock (but I only have 500 rounds downrange since I got it back last week).
Changing factory RSAs by themselves did exactly squat for my problems.
Running a 13 lb. ISMI and a Jager guide rod alone caused 6 FTEs in 100 rounds in stock form. Whereas with the factory RSA I had 1-2 FTEs per 100 rounds on average.
-
115 Hornday XTP JHP, 1.132" OAL and 6.2 grains of Power Pistol ran 1,202 fps average out of my G17 @~75 degrees F near sea level. Chrono was 12 ft from the muzzle.
The same load only made 1,165 fps average out of my M&P Full Size (4.25" barrel). I do have a slow barrel though.
My G17 put 5 rounds into 1.6" with that load @ 25 yards.
It does sound like a hand cannon going off.
Using 6.0 grains of Power Pistol and a 124 Montana Gold CMJ, the G17 averaged 1,143 fps, and the M&P averaged 1,100 fps. The G17 shot that load well also.
-
I'll be chrono'ing 6.2 PP under a 115 Hornady XTP JHP tomorrow @ 1.132 OAL. I will let you know where I end up.
PP is a very loud powder (you may want to double plug), and 115s with any powder will have more 'snap' and felt recoil that many other loads you'll find people use here in games. I don't think you'll find many people here loading that combo, but it's a good powder for accuracy and velocity in 9mm.
Much less felt recoil with a 124 gr bullet and 4.1 - 4.2 gr of TG loaded out at 1.150" OAL, and 147's with of TG is like shooting a .22.
-
I have #8 also. (if you're talking about the pivot/slide that drops the case onto the shellplate slide)
I have to keep it spotless, and at a fine level of tension, with a couple squirts of One-Shot for it to work well.
Yes, that's the issue I was describing.
Today was the first time I noticed this (I've only had the case feeder since late Sept. though).
My pivot assembly binds so badly that it torques the whole assembly out of alignment when the plunger activates it. The funny thing is, when I finish the movement by hand I can't feel any real binding.
-
Not to side track this thread any more than I already have, but issue #8 today with the case feeder:
8.) Case drop activation plunger binds, causing the case not to feed and the cam wire to pop out of alignment.
My case feeder is now in a box awaiting shipment back to its mfg.
I've chimed in about the primer seating before. Mine won't seat primers fully. CCI or Wolf are the most problematic, particularly with my M&Ps I'll get as many as 2 in 10 light strikes or more. Winchesters are better, but only run 98-99%, and Federals are ~99.5%.
I would deal with hand feeding my LNL for several calibers I shoot if it would seat primers fully. It's a great low volume press in that regard. Changeovers are a breeze, adjustments are rarely needed if you stick with one primer size and the powder measure is excellent. Case feeder is a POS afterthought, along with the PTX, IMO.
-
<650 primes easily compared to the LnL.
<Even you have admitted that you use a snapping motion to seat primers. 650 <doesn't require any of those tricks. It just works.
My LNL takes some effort to get primers seated. It's much more pronounced in large pistol than small.
The main problem being that my LNL won't seat primers below flush, no matter how much force is applied, and my M&Ps are very intolerant of any primer that's not slightly below flush.
I like everything else about the press itself except its priming. The casefeeder on the other hand, is giving me all kinds of fits loading 9mm. I load faster manually feeding the press than fixing the case feeder malfs., at least so far.
Those two issues will have a new blue press on my bench next month. Just need to decide bewteen a 650 and it's bigger brother.
What exactly is your problem with the casefeeder? Lnl is sometimes a pita with 9mm and case feeders. The empty case dropping off the side?
1.) Brass rain
2.) Cases jamming horizontally in top of feeder
3.) Cases not dropping free of case feed plate and jamming up rotation
4.) Cases dropping off the side of the sub plate
5.) Upside down cases
6.) Cases tipping over during feeding, or just not feeding completely into the shell plate station #1
7.) Cases jamming up at the transition from the case feeder to the drop tube, catching on the aluminum funnel
I'm sure there are a few others I'm forgetting. I have a solid bench, so that's not the issue. I've worked up a few fixes for the cases flying off the shell plate and brass rain, but the other problems are frequent enough to be annoying and eliminate any time savings from the case feeder.
-
115gr JRN Precision Delta
5.9gr Silhouette
1.148 OAL
Work up at your own risk. It's a tack driver when I do my part. Based on D. Manley's info, so thanks and credit to him.
Eight rounds, 15yrds:
I tried this load with a 115 FMJ Zero, and it is, indeed a tack driver. A bit snappy though.
-
<650 primes easily compared to the LnL.
<Even you have admitted that you use a snapping motion to seat primers. 650 <doesn't require any of those tricks. It just works.
My LNL takes some effort to get primers seated. It's much more pronounced in large pistol than small.
The main problem being that my LNL won't seat primers below flush, no matter how much force is applied, and my M&Ps are very intolerant of any primer that's not slightly below flush.
I like everything else about the press itself except its priming. The casefeeder on the other hand, is giving me all kinds of fits loading 9mm. I load faster manually feeding the press than fixing the case feeder malfs., at least so far.
Those two issues will have a new blue press on my bench next month. Just need to decide bewteen a 650 and it's bigger brother.
-
My M&Ps have been fairly reliable, but not flawless. I have an M&P 9mm FS and a new Pro 5", a 40 S&W FS and a .40 S&W Compact.
I have about ~24K through these guns so far, mainly in 9mm, and this has been my experience:
Part breakages are as follows:
1.) 2 slide stops
2.) 1 old style striker assembly
3.) 1 trigger spring
Malfunctions are as follows:
1.) Pro 5" (new 10/26/11) stock rear sight shook loose under recoil
2.) Pro 5" - 1 bad magazine causing multiple FTFs
3.) All FS and Compact guns - white sight paint shot out of FS and some on the rear sights as well
4.) Pro 5" - light primer hits out of the box, back at S&W now to diagnose (same ammo runs 100% out of my 9mm FS)
5.) 9mm FS - dead trigger (5 instances w/new sear housing block and larger dia. sear spring)
6.) 9mm FS - believe it is unlocking early (shoots very high at 25 yards and groups are strung vertically). Didn't notice this until ~6K rounds or so, replaced RSA with no improvement
I've never fired a CZ, but in December, I'll have a short dust cover Shadow on the way.
-
Curious what everyone's experience is that uses an XL650 to load for an M&P 9 or 40.
How frequently do you get light primer strikes using primers other than Federals, like CCI or Win?
-
"Only" 5,000 rounds a month? That's 60,000 rounds a year....
I'd absolutely spring for the 1050 with that kind of volume.
-
.378 is enough for me to get that bullet seated. It seems to have a very slight boat tail.
You could go up to .380 if you're having trouble getting them to stay put.
-
2-3" right is consistent across loads and shooters. I had a another talented shooter test the TG load, and had the exact same results as my own.
25 yards (max available distance), multiple 10-rd groups (5 each load). Average group size is 4" for the 115's with a circular shaped dispersion, and 5" strung vertically for the 124's with TG.
The one box of Federal 115 American Eagle I shot turned in two 10-round groups under 2.5", and POI = POA, that last 3 weren't very good though, most likely shooter error.
I would just drift the sights and call it good, but when I do that I'm shooting left when shooting under 50 ft.
-
Factory ammo (115 gr Fed American Eagle) in my M&P's shoots straight at any distance.
My reloads shoot straight up to 50 ft, after that they shoot right of POA 2-3" at 25 yards.
Load #1: 4.2 gr TG, 124 MG JHP, Fed case .748", 1.145" OAL, Win Primer, .376" crimp, 1,100 fps
Load #2: 4.7 gr Bullseye, 115 gr Zero FMJ, Fed case .748", 1.130" OAL, CCI primer, .376" crimp, 1,180 fps
Load #3: 6.9 gr HS-6, 115 gr Zero FMJ, Fed case .748", 1.130" OAL, CCI primer, .376" crimp, 1,200 fps
Measurements for the factory Federal ammo are .376" crimp, 1.150" OAL, 4.6 gr of powder (I'm assuming BE), 1,180 fps.
Any idea why my reloads are shooting with a little right english?
I'm using a Redding comp. seating die and Redding crimp die.
best powders for accuracy 9mm Luger
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
In my experience:
Silouette, Power Pistol and WSF work the best for accuracy loads in 9mm.
I would try N320 and N330 as well, depending on the bullet you select, particularly for USPSA or IDPA.