wgj3
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Posts posted by wgj3
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There are few threads on this topic.
JP, Young Mfg, seem to be the top 2. But there are a few others out there.
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=191378&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1
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The seat die itself wouldn't make the marks. It looks to me as though the bullets are tipping a bit as they go into the seat die and the case mouth is making the marks.
Post some more pics of the sides of the pulled bullets, belled cases and some pics of your complete rounds too.
Measure the diameter of the case mouth of your loaded rounds and post that too.
The "bell" on your cases should be just enough that a bullet should sit just inside the case mouth when under the seat die. I always keep my thumb and index finger on the bullet/case neck junction until they go into the seat die. Looks like maybe your bullets are tipping a bit on the way up.
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I will gladly accept anyone's nickel or "bad" headstamp brass. I would hate for it to pile up in your reloading area and cause you any trouble.
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What Steve said, and also check the operating (gas?) system to make sure that nothing is out of place and keeping the action from cycling as it should. Springs have to be replaced over time, so it could very easily be something as simple as a few new springs.
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Would the insert also decrease capacity? Or, does it just keep the compressed spring centered in the tube better?
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Ummmm... I think there is more to it than min caliber. It's not just projectile diameter. You would be welcome to run the 9.1x40, but it would be tough at longer ranges and mag capacity probably wouldn't be all that great. You have to run something with enough energy to activate LR steel targets in a fashion that allows the RO's to reliably call hits.
And, I thought that min PF for rifle (in USPSA) was closer to 160.
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I have one DAA and multiple CR's. Both brands are quite serviceable. The DAA is super-stiff. Not a bad thing unless the stiffness keeps it from conforming to my waist, which it does. The DAA is also a little bit thicker than the CR which really locks stuff in place once you get it into the position that you want. It also makes it quite a workout to get holsters and pouches on and also tough to adjust if/when needed. I think the CR belts appear to be a little better finished on the edges and such. The CR being a touch more flexible makes it work better for me and the ability to shift pouches and such when needed is handy for me.
They are sized differently.
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About 6-7 yds. Don't use the screens. Aim high. If first round is too high to read lower aim a little until you get a reading.
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The Pro and Amp 37's from Hear-Pro are rated at 37db reduction. I have no trouble around Open pistols or comped AR's.
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Just load it like it is.
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That arm should be working to open and close the circuit to start and stop the motor. Once the tube fills and a case rests on the arm it should be be stopping the motor. If it doesn't, then likely that switch is failing. They are incredibly cheap and I can send them to people if needed. I do a little side job that requires those same switches, so I usually have them.
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I refer to my brown, heavily discolored cases as "tactically tarnished". They still run just fine. It's almost like the TAP ammo, but much cheaper.
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I have one of the old spring-actuated powder measures that I got with my used 650 a couple years ago and I'm a fan.
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It's not the abandoned gun that would be the issue. Never had or seen one fire when left alone/abandoned.
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You will probably want to lube them ALL. Especially inside the case neck where the expander can stick if not lubed. If you choose to try going with only lubing some cases, make sure you have a stuck case remover available. The RCBS kit gets good reviews.
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Why would you ever have a racker on the strong side of the pistol? Intentionally that is...
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I can't use muffs when shooting a long gun either. I believe that it has to do with cheek-weld; if you mount the gun further down your face, you have clearance for muff. If, on the other hand, you mount the stock further up your face nearer your cheekbone, there is often not enough clearance. Some good, custom - molded, high NRR plugs are a great fix. Check into Hear-Pro.
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The isn't something that USPSA or 3gun or IDPA shooters would do. It's something you see in the Benchrest community. Fairly common there to tailor loads to conditions. Very low volume.
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You would also want to remove all the play between the upper and lower to maintain consistency/accuracy with the sights split between the two pieces.
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As previously mentioned, the only difference between standard .223/5.56 AR and 300 Blackout AR is the barrel, though you also want to stick with carbine or shorter gas system for reliable function. With 110-130 gr bullets at max velocities around 2300-2500fps, you can easily handle anything deer-sized or under out to 250 or so. With an optic zeroed a few inches high at 100 yds, you could pretty easily handle anything out to 200-300 with only a little holdover. The light bullets tend to be constructed with thinner jackets and are quicker to expand at lower velocities. Fine for hog hunting with mid-to-heavy-weight projectiles at the typically shorter ranges of that activity.
300 Blackout isn't a barn-burner, but it can get in the neighborhood of .30/30 performance and I would bet my right one that that round has accounted for as much or more game than any (except maybe .30/06) in North America. And, it requires very little in the way of unique components. The aforementioned 6.8 and 6.5 require unique bolts and mags and such.
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I've been rocking a minor load for 3 gun with about 3.2 grs of Solo1K.
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You can stipple and undercut the grip/trigger guard. Add a mag release button that works best for you. Lighten slide and recoil spring if only running light loads for the purposes you mention in OP.
These are just options, not requirements. A few different weight recoil springs is a fairly inexpensive way to do a little tuning of the gun to your preferred ammo.
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Just search for the equipment information for that division and you will find all the Do's and Don'ts.
How do you store component's
in General Reloading
Posted
+1 for most anything but a sealed metal container. Mine are in a cabinet under my bench.