Charley

Yesterday I was the first shooter on the first stage at our local USPSA match. I fired one round then the trigger wouldn't reset. At the range I couldn't find anything wrong. Today when I pressed out the connector it fell out in two pieces. I have been using this connector for five years in my Glock 35. The connector is stamped LWD. I sent e-mail to Lone Wolf along with a picture. The only other part I've broken is the Slide Stop Lever spring (at the match of course). That's not a fun experience. Fire a round and the slide locks back. Tap, rack, fire and the slide locks back again. The second time this happened (at a match of course) I was ready and used my thumb to hold down the Slide Stop Lever. That wasn't completely satisfactory, but I did finish the stage. Now I routinely replace the spring before a big match. Guess I need to add the connector to my list of parts to replace.

QUESTION: I'm considering using the new Glock 22-round .40 S&W magazine as my "big stick". I measure it at 165 mm by USPSA's method. 171.25 mm is the maximum length for open. How much length does your +3 base pad add? ANSWER: It would add about 13.7mm Ralph Arredondo Arredondo Accessories & Mfg. CONCLUSION: 165 + 13.7 = 178.7mm, too long for USPSA open division. :-( ----------- QUESTION: Is your Glock +0 Brass, 9/40/357 base pad easier to disassemble for cleaning than the factory base pad? I'm considering using the new Glock 22-round .40 S&W magazine as my "big stick". I measure it at 165 mm by USPSA's method. 171.25 mm is the maximum length for open. How much length does your +0 brass base pad add? ANSWER: I'm waiting for a sample big stick to come in from another customer who has asked me to custom-machine him a +0 pad into what we both hope will be a +1. As to disassembly/cleaning, it uses the same system as the original basepad, so if anything, it's slightly harder to disassemble, since the brass isn't as "slippery" or flexible as the original plastic. If I can build a brass +1 for you that fits the USPSA requirements, would you be interested? Robin Taylor Taylor Freelance, LLC CONCLUSION: I told Robin that I was interested.

I had the same happenning to me (tension knob ejected several times and lost the spring) and I wrote about it here: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=101251&view=findpost&p=1226311 (I know, long and boring post ). Manufactured my own spring from recoil spring. I agree, the combination of the original spring lenght/tension and screw lenght - at least on my RM - makes the holster prone to such accidents. Very easy fix - slightly longer screw is needed. Hi, Actually, I have already made the decision to make the next run of tension bolts a little longer to resolve this issue once and for all. We may even try to incorporate some kind of locking ring to make it impossible for the tension knob to come out unless you first remove the ring. I have not heard of too many cases of this happened, and I have never had it happen to me or anyone I have seen using the holster, but I agree it would be good to address this - and we will. And I am grateful for everyones feedback. I do think though, that perhaps this occurs to those who are running the holster with the tension knob too close to the end of it's range. that should not be necessary to achieve a very light draw. perhaps, if you feel you need to loosen that bolt so very much - you should look to loosen the draw resistance another way: sometimes the cut for the trigger guard is just a fraction too loose. using a file to remove a little material from the inside of the outer side of the holster's insert will make a world of difference, and then you will have the loose draw you want with that bolt several turns in. Another option is to use a little silicon spray, or oil in the holster's moving part - that too will make it very loose... just a few tips to try. thanks again for all the positive, and constructive feedback, Saul When I get my replacement spring and tension screw I plan on using a little Teflon tape (plumbers tape) on the threads. I'm hoping that will help me avoid losing them again.

It only took one extra shot to get all my hits on the two swinging targets. I was wondering where that shot went.

The story I heard was that one of the ROs shot and broke one of the props during the RO match. It was early on so they changed to the hard cover and reshot those who needed. I have no problem with the change itself, sh*t happens and they dealt with it. I think the problem was the hard cover wasn't staked down. I don't want to rag on them too much, this match was an immense amount of work and I've got nothing but admiration for those who put it on. They were good and fun stages. Congrats on the 4th place Limited finish! Stage 7 The original design had one Metric steel hard cover target to conceal the disappearing target, just like the picture in the match booklet on page 27. A tube that held a sliding weight was shot and prevented the weight from being put back on the tube. Farley had a spare prop, so the spare was installed. AND, two rectangular steel hard covers were added to protect the mechanism. During the reshoot a competitor observed that the disappearing target was partially visible at rest. Tim Egan decided to replace the swinging targets with two stationary targets, leaving all the steel hard cover in place.