PumpGunGuy

Have you checked with Crazy John at CJ1911heaven? He often has LB's with FO sights in stock, so no need to change out sights. He is also a great guy to deal with, with great prices. I have an LB and I love it, I just enjoy such a finely fitted machine. I did not find the 600 round break in to be a problem. I was going to shoot them anyway. Enjoy, Rick

I have been shooting skeet and sporting clays for about 14 years. The biggest mistake new shooters make is thinking the choke is the most important factor in the shot. Many new shooters overestimate the distance, and then the necessary choke to make the shot. Unless you are shooting "Big Blast" targets (the top shoots where the targets are set to allow separation of the elite shooters), you would be well advised to put an Improved cylinder choke in, flush or extended doesn't matter, and then focus on the target and what it is doing. You will be way ahead if you take the money you save form not buying a multitude of chokes, and spend it on QUALITY lessons. The equipment is fascinating, but until you have a good skill base, it's the shotgun equivalent of "mall ninja" gear. As usual, this advice is worth exactly what you paid for it. Enjoy the great sport of breaking clay. Rick

Thanks for the link. Rick

I'm pleased to announce that I have been practicing enough with my G35 to have worn a significant amount of the finish from the Dawson fixed rear sight. Does anyone have a suggestion for how to re-black it? I'm thinking of just using a black Sharpie. Rick

I know this is a common problem. I have the updated ejector, and I have tried substituting the extractor from a Gen3 G34 (that has a very stable ejection patern), and a Lone Wolf LCI extractor with no resolution. I have the problem with WWB, Federal NATO, and reloads (124's @ 1070fps), so I don't think it's an ammo issue. I now have 1220 rounds through the gun. What else is there to do? Thanks for any suggestions. Rick

As others have said, they are all good guns. I have been shooting clay targets for 15 years, and the most common mistake is buying a different gun to get a better score. IMHO the priority is first fit (if it doesn't fit, it is like having pistol sights that don't match POI), next is instruction, and then practice the technique with a gun that fits. Regular lessons with a good coach will save you wasted ammo and frustration. Free advice (you're behind it), is the most expensive thing at a gun club. If you are interested in a Perazzi, they have a factory gun fitter in CA, so you don't have to go to Italy. Talk to John at Pacific Arms. Rick For what it's worth, I've been shooting the same custom wood since 1999, it has been on three different K-80s. Thea great thing about the K gun is you cannot wear it out, you don't need to buy a new one, and the used market is pretty efficient. Robert Paxton of Paxton Arms is a great guy to deal with, with vast knowledge of all the brands you mentioned.

I load on a Dillon 550, with a Lee sizing die in the first stage, and regular Dillon dies in the other 3. All my loads easily pass through the case guage. I did have issues using the Dillon sizing die. Good luck. Rick

I have been loading them according to the Hodgdon recipie for Sinterfire bullets. Universal powder(see Hodgdon site for specifics), FSP primer, O.A.L. 1.120". My G35 averages 1190 fps, G22 averages 1170fps. I have not had any reliability issues, and accuracy is good. I really like them for shooting steel, and they are clean when shooting paper indoors. I hope this helps. Rick

I bought 1,000 of these for $70 delivered. I shot some today from my G 35, and they worked perfectly. Had anyone else been using them? PGG My typo. They are IMI, not ISMI.

I am setting up to load .40 for the first time. I will be using Bayou 200 grain bullets and either Hodgdon Universal or WSF. They will be fired from a Glock 35. Can anyone offer an opinion/load? How about a suggested OAL? Thanks, PGG

I am purchasing a used G 35 that the previous owner shot MG 200s through. I want to use Bayou Bullets, and am undecided about 180 vs. 200 grains. Can anyone offer recommendations for a 200 load, especially OAL in the glock? Thanks, PGG

Is anyone using one of these to shoot USPSA Limited? If you are, how do you like it? Did you need to do anything to it?

I shoot some USPSA, and steel, but mainly it is unsanctioned.

I am intrigued by the thought of a 1911ish high capacity 9mm. What have experiences been with these two? Does anyone have experience with both? Are there other ~$2000 options I should consider? Thanks, Rick

I have a Target II 9mm that is OK, but I would like it to be better. I like a grip safety with a 'bump' on it, and I would like to have the trigger improved (my Les Baer has ruined me for other triggers). Can anyone recommend a smith for Kimbers? Thanks, PumpGunGuy

I am going to the late Sept. class in GA, and don't know what to take. I have been told .45 is just too much recoil over the course, but what if I load a bunch of 185's at 800 feet per second? Should I shoot a 9mm (M&P Pro), and abandon my 1911's? Is this the excuse to get a Wilson Spec-Ops 9mm? If anyone has personal experience, I will appreciate the input.

Two shots.........and a splash.

What did the first fish to take a bite of bin Laden say? Tastes like chicken. AMFYOYO

Another vote for muffs over plugs (especially indoors). Electronic muffs let you hear what is going on, yet be protected from noise. I also had a set of muffs that when the batteries got weak stopped 'cutting out'. Essentially they amplified gunshots. That was bad with plugs in, I don't want to contemplate what it would have been like without. Hearing loss is forever. PGG

Does anyone know of a place to send a load to have it pressure tested? I experience "creep" in my loads. You know, I can't get primer A, so I use primer B, and lets try this 230 JHP in place of that 230 FMJ, and it seems to feed better at this OAL than that. Eventually, it's all different, and I don't know what it is. It sure would be nice to get the numbers. Thanks, PGG

I shoot h&g 200 swc's (Lasercast) outside, and am looking for an indoor load. Montana Golds seem to be about the same price as Berry's. Does anybody shoot them, and how do they shoot if you do? Thanks, PGG

I recently loaded up some 180 SWCs using my standard major recipe for the 200 (VV310 4.5 grains, Federal large pistol primer, about 860 fps), and seated them to the same overall length that my Les Baer likes (1.23 inches, any longer and the driving band engages the rifling and is almost impossible to live eject). I thought I would get a little more velocity and see what the PF worked out to. Today I went and shot over my chronograph and got surprising results. My velocity was only 800 fps, with large extreme spreads (50 fps) and correspondingly large standard deviations. The cases were also "dirty", making me wonder if I had insufficient pressure to expand the brass and get a good seal. The VihtaVuori guide goes up to 5.1 grains for the 185 Nosler JHP, but then again they list the max load for 200 swc at 4.0 grains, which does not make major in my gun. I am considering increasing the powder charge to 5.0 grains, figuring that the lead swc load will generate less pressure than the listed jhp. Thoughts? Thanks, Rick Just to be complete, I load on a Dillon 550 with a Lee factory crimp set to just 'kiss' the case mouth.

I have recently started to spray my 9 mm and .45 acp cases after cleaning, and I find they go through my 550 MUCH more easily. Does anyone else find this to be useful/necessary? It probably decreases effort by 50% and speeds the process. Rick

I want to have Dan Burwell do a trigger job on my M&P, so when I was at FedEx shipping a revolver back to S&W (another topic in itself), I asked how much it would cost if I shipped it? Answer: $60-70. Because when I ship it it has to go overnight air. I left as soon as I could so that I would not say many of the things I was thinking. I happen to know that UPS is the same. Is there a legal way to ship a handgun more economically? It's kind of hard to eat $120 shipping to have a $65 trigger job done. Any suggestions? Rick

I have several S&W revolvers, mostly older guns I bought used, but I have bought 2 new S&W's in the last couple of years, and I am not impressed. My first was a 625JM. When I got it from the transfer agent, I took it out of the case, dry fired it, and noticed that 2 of the chambers were out of time. S&W promptly sent me a label to return it, but what a hassle, not to mention the frustration of not being able to shoot my new gun. Now, after waiting 6 months for a Performance Center 325 TR, I took it out to shoot and noticed the barrel shroud was loose and flopping all over the place (I have 250-300 rounds through it). That could explain the difficulty I have been having regulating the sights. I again called S&W, and they are sending another shipping label and assure me they will take care of it. Since I'm venting, I will also mention that the double action pull is HEAVY, but reasonably smooth. Am I just unlucky, or do they have QC problems? Well, off to shoot old revolvers that have blue steel and work. Rick