Henny
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Posts posted by Henny
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I have the M die set up so the first step does not expand the case mouth. The M die in my case is used to knock any burrs off the inside of the case mouth and to help make the case neck uniform due to not using a regular sizing die with a neck expanding ball.
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My setup for processing 223 is similar to what you have listed.
1 insert case
2 universal decapper
3 swage
4 empty
5 size / trim
6 empty
7 empty
8 Lyman "M" die
Things have been working great for me with this setup.
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When I process brass I don't even use the sizing die. I deprime with a universal decapping die, size with the trim die and hit the case mouth with a Lyman M die. It works great for me!
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Start with the basics.
Make sure your press is solidly mounted to a rock solid bench. With my first 650 I had priming problems until I added additional support.
Make sure your station locator tab (PN: 13242) is properly adjusted. It's suppose to be about the thickness of a business card from the casing.
Make sure the seater assembly is screwed all the way in.
If you have an alignment tool, check to see if the shell plate is properly indexing.
Use a smooth consistent stroke when operating the press. If you feel resistance when seating the primer stop and see how the case if out of alignment.
I've read (not experienced) that Winchester primers as of late haven't been the best quality. I don't know if this is true or not. I heard it on the internet. Bonjour!
Good luck diagnosing your problem! Let us know what you came up with!
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I once had a bench that didn't have much of an overang. I just got a long bit and drilled the hole for the bolt through the 2x4. I don't believe I'd use a lag bolt. But, that's just me.
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I posted this before. I'm very good at wounding chronographs!
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Here's how mine is mounted:
This is how much clearance when the handle is fully down.
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Plus I didn't have the loaded ammunition ejection issues that I had with the bearing kit.
YMMV
That's because you didn't read the tips and tricks for the 650 thread closely enough. The top washer is not needed for the bearing kit to work it's magic. I made a very minor tweak of the ejector and it runs perfect.
No, I only used the one washer.
Then you should not be having issues with the ejection. I have recommended dropping one washer to more than a few guys who were having problems and it corrected it.
It only happened when I was reloading or processing 223. Since I got a 1050, my 650s haven't seen a 223 case.
With everyone else's success with this addition to the 650, I have to wonder if it may have been a tolerance stacking thing with my machine? When I'm loading other cartridges on the 650s, the clipped spring and grease on the underside of the shell plate bolt works fine for my needs.
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Plus I didn't have the loaded ammunition ejection issues that I had with the bearing kit.
YMMV
That's because you didn't read the tips and tricks for the 650 thread closely enough. The top washer is not needed for the bearing kit to work it's magic. I made a very minor tweak of the ejector and it runs perfect.
No, I only used the one washer.
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I found that clipping a half a coil at a time until things were right and making sure the underside of the shell plate bolt is well greased allieviated my snapping problems.
I did try the bearing kit, but I just didn't like it and I had just as good of luck with the above process. Plus I didn't have the loaded ammunition ejection issues that I had with the bearing kit.
YMMV
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I guess I take the easy and cheap route. I use the Hornady sure lock die rings. The conversion is just unscrewing the reloading dies and screwing in the case prep dies.
It's easy, quick and works for me!
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Does the brass tipped screw still have the brass tip on it?
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You might realize this, but make sure you're putting the fail safe rod in correctly. It was mentioned the powder measure seemed to be binding. It goes through the large part into the small.
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I've learned my lesson with springs over the years. I'd prefer to remove the big chunk of plastic by turning a screw a couple of turns! I'd surely misplace the spring!You dont have to remove the primer cam to disable it, just remove the little primer cam returm spring. The cam then will stay in one position (shell plate up).
jj
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Once you get things back together and get a primer indexing arm replacement and perhaps ring indexer, ring indexer return spring and paw spring; the next time you're processing brass, remove the primer cam so your primer system is deactavated. It just reduces the possibility of anything getting messed up with the primer system.
That's quite an accomplishment getting the ring indexer behind the indexer block!
I'm sure the guys at Dillon have seen worse!
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Oh man, I've had to clean low primer alarms and even had to solder some to get them working again!
It sounds like lithium batteries are the way to go?
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A heads up, I just found my email reciept from McMaster-Carr. Total price for everything including shipping was $9.34 for 10 knobs. I ordered on a Monday morning and I recieved them on a Tuesday afternoon!
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McMaster-Carr has packs of 10 for $4.85 plus shipping. Their shipping is usually very reasonable and fast.
It's part number 94052A043 for black.
Here's the link:
http://www.mcmaster.com/?orderview=new#catalog/119/3067/=oqamql
If the link doesn't work, just go to their main page and put the above part number in.
My dad use to tell me, if McMaster-Carr doesn't have it, it's probably not made!
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Both of my 650s have movement.
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When I first got my 1050 I had to adjust the rachet mechanism. The machine would lock up when the handle was in the down position. A slight adjustment and all was fine. I initially thought it was a good idea to keep it on while I learned the machine and how it worked. Once I got familliar with the machine's operation, I had intended to take the ratchet off.
After a few thousand 223 cases processed and loaded, I took the ratchet off. To me it just didn't feel right with out it, so I put it back on. I guess I became used to it and it just seemed normal to have it on for me.
I imagine if I took it off prior to adjusting it, it would seem odd to run the machine with it.
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Shouldn't that area have a lot of grease in it to absorb the impact of the shell when it drops from the case feeder? I thought I read that in the Dillon manual but I'm not for sure
The underside of the station 1 locater should be greased.
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I doubt you'll need the tape.
One thing to check - I processed thousands of 223 on my 650 prior to getting my 1050. I noticed that I'd get a slight build up of sizing lube on the bottom of the "U" that inserts the case into station 1. Sometimes their would be enough lube just to make things sticky enough to pull the case back out a little bit. The problem was easily solved by a quick wipe of a alcohol soaked patch.
I think by adjsting the cam pin you'll be on the right track.
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Stick with your larger bar. Make sure your bench is very stable and there's no static in your powder measure. Cycle 10 or so drops of powder through your measure before you confirm your powder charge and start reloading. Also, when I fill my powder hopper I tap on it a few times to help settle the powder. WC 846 should flow through the measure like water!
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Check out page 37 and 38 of the 650 manual (2007 version). It goes through the procedure for adjusting the camming pin to insert the case into station 1.
650 Primer Question
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
My newer 650 did the same thing from when it was new. A half a minute with a good flat Arkansas stone solved the problem!
My older 650 (early to mid 1990s) has been very smooth from day one.