Henny
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Posts posted by Henny
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In addition to the above mentioned, I also noticed if the locator bolt (PN# 13333 page 31 of the manual) is bent it can lead to case feeding malfunctions. That and 223 PMC brass.
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Wipe the rod with a drier sheet - the stuff used to reduce static cling in clothes. .Has anyone had an issue with powder flakes sticking to the rod causing it spill on the plate at all.
It's also not a bad idea to wipe it off with alcohol after the dryer sheet. I found out the hard way that some dryer sheets are somewhat oily - not really oily, but some chemical.
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I've been using Dillon's powder check since the early 90s. I've never had any problems with it. I don't understand what the problems are?
As far as the Mk1 eye being more accurate/ reliable? I know the powder check will let me know when there's a piece of media in the case or if the charge is around a half a grain over or under by setting the rod and activator up properly. I'm getting older and my eyes just aren't as good as they once were. I know they can't tell the difference even in one grain of powder.
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To stop the primer feed, it's pretty easy to take off the primer cam. It's only one screw to remove that's easily accessible.
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I hate swaging brass. A lot. For me getting a 1050 was a relief for me.
Yes, I hate swaging that much!
I still have my two 650s, and I'm intimately familiar with them. I've been loading on the one since the mid 90s. Going to the 1050 was different. But not too different if you have a decent mechanical mind. The big difference, of course is the priming system. It takes a little bit to figure it out and learn how it works. Once you do that, you won't regret one moment having your 1050.
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The thing that I found that smooths out the shell plate movement is to ensure the case insert slide and cam slide are properly timed for case insertion. If it's inserting the case too soon, it will cause your shell plate to accellerate and sling powder.
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That was happening for me too. I was running my case feeder on the fast position. I started running it on the slow position and haven't had any problems since.
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Mine works great on .45, so so on .40, terrible on 223 and I can't figure out why I get false buzzes on .223 but it drives me crazy. I haven't done a whole lot of .223 so I'm still working on it. I use Allient AR for powder, anyone else using that powder?
Mike, I've used AR Comp with no noted problems with the alarm. Although I have had a few when loading 308 with H4895. I'm guessing it's due to how those big sticks of powder land in the case?
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I think they're great. I know after reloading thousands of .223 all kinds of things get stuck in those cases that don't come out during tumbling. My powder alarm has gone off due to small stones, sticks and cobwebs.
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Quick question, is there a way to stop the primer disc from spinning at any giving time? Or does it always have to spin and just drop any live primer in that tray?
^^Found the answer to that in the tips & tricks thread.
What I do when I have a primer waiting is to lift the primer advancing arm during the down stroke. That way, the primer does not advance.When I finish my loading session and run out of primers, I usually size and deprime a couple of extra pieces of brass and put them under my strong mount. I use these when I have a misfeed from the case feeder and the shellplate had advanced. There is a primer ready to use with no brass to put it in. I take one of the pre-sized and deprimed brass from under the press and place it in the primer station, correct my feed problem and keep reloading.
I find it real easy to just remove the primer cam. Remove one hex head screw, and you can cycle your press as often as you want and the primer disk won't advance.
When you start a reloading session, you cycle the press to get a case in station one, put the primer cam back, and you're back to priming cases!
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Properly time your machine with the case feed insert / camming pin and clip 1/2 to 1 coil off your detent ball if you feel it's necessary. You won't need the bearing kit, and the possible ejection problems / broken indexing ring that can arise with the bearing mod.
Some good grease on the underside of the shell plate bolt and cam pin goes a long way toward smooth operation. That and smooth, unforced manipulation of the machine by the operator.
I've been messing with the 650s since the early 90s, it took my dumb ass a while to figure these simple things out. Well, that and re reading the manual a few dozen times!
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I am able to get mine adjusted really well and it alerts me to low/high charges properly (and mine is unmodified).
Same here.
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It is a good idea to occasionally run a patch with alcohol thru your primer tubes to clean out residual primer compound which can accumulate over time.
If the patch comes out yellow, that's primer compound.
I've had some of my primer tubes since the mid 80s. I've always been very good at yearly maintenance on my machines. However, I never cleaned the primer tubes.
2014 was the first time I cleaned them (using alcohol on a patch). Needless to say, I was shocked at how much residue was in them! Cleaning all the primer tubes has now been added to my yearly maintenance on my machines.
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WZ41 has the correct answer.
If you want to try to adjust the indexing before you get the proper tool, you can always adjust the indexer block (lower left side of the press frame). You never know, you might get lucky and get it right before you get the tool.
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Wipe the powder check rod with isopropyl alcohol then wipe it with a used dryer sheet.
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Maybe I'm missing something, I don't have any problems taking the pins out and back in the way they are and I do it quite often to clean. Seems to me a solution looking for a problem.
Same here. I even took them off all but station #5 on my 1050. I know on my 650s and station 2 and stations 7 and 8 on the 1050 I was frequently brushing up against them and knocking the pin out.
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I keep hearing it's not a big deal to dump the powder back in the jug. Every time I've tried this, I've spilled powder. That's a huge deal to me in these times, so I refuse to dump my hoppers. They are labeled with which powder is in them, and that's all that ever goes in them.
They do make funnels!
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Sure you can leave it, but why? It's easy enough to empty and put in its original container. All you have to do is just remove the tool head and dump the powder back in the can / bottle or loosen the two hex head screws that hold the measure on the die, remove the measure and pour the powder back in the bottle.
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Wow! I ordered yesterday and the screws arrived today!
These are the exact screws that are needed.
If you need one the screws that either brassaholic or I listed, these are it.
By the way, I bent mine when I dropped a box of bullets. What's the chance that it would hit one of the few things that would bend? I probably couldn't do it again if I tried. But I'm not going to!
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Like I said, you could have picked them up from the local Fastenal assuming you have one nearby.
There isn't one real close to where I live. Plus I have an account with MM-C. They are good people!
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I ordered the following from McMaster-Carr
91259A539Alloy Steel Shoulder Screw, 1/4" Diameter x 5/8" Long Shoulder, 10-24 Thread
I'm pretty sure that's the one that's needed. I'll let you guys know when I receive them.
Edited to add picture of item:
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I noticed that if the end pieces aren't fully seated on the tube, primers can get jammed up.
Sometimes it's pretty hard to get them seated all the way on.
You might want to check yours.
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Every time I fill the primer tube up, I take a qtip that has some Imperial sizing wax on and do a quick swab around the mouth of the sizing die.
The last time I got done loading, I thought about trying some Motor Mica. The next time, I'll give that a try.
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I started with a SDB in the late 80s. Somewhere along the line I picked up 2 650s (one from Brian and the other one used ). I should have been, and was very satisfied with the 650s. However, I absolutely hate swaging primer pockets. Even with the SS600.
I bought a 1050 with the idea of only loading 223 on it. I love it! I never intended on using it for anything else. Now I'm finding myself picking up Hornady die lock rings and other necessary items for caliber conversion. Do I load enough ammunition to justify the 1050? Probably not. Do I regret buying the 1050? Not at all!
Still using an "as designed" 1050...
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Yeah, my 1050 is still running as it was from the factory. It's a great machine!