Henny
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Posts posted by Henny
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I copy and pasted this from a post I made on another forum. I’m not sure why it’s highlighted in green. Sorry about that!WARNING: Anything I’m posting below is dangerous. It’s only for informational purposes. Doing anything replicating this could put life, limb, and your equipment in danger.
I’ve been a happy S1050 owner for years. I really love loading on the machine. That being said....In my opinion, it has one problem that, when it rears it’s ugly head, it eventually turns into a mess. That problem is the priming system.
Countless times I hear that sound of a primer hitting the bench, or look in my finished cartridge bin and see powder in it or I see a nice trail of powder going from the powder drop station to the final station.
It’s very frustrating. Usually the fix is to take the priming system off, brush or vacuum all the powder off the shell plate / base, and wipe everything down with a patch and q tip with alcohol and reassemble.
It seems like it never fails that the primer tube is either full, or nearly full. All 1050 owners know happens when you remove the priming assembly with primers in the tube. Primers everywhere! They go in every crevasse of the machine, on the bench and on the floor. There’s no way to empty or stop the primer system that is practical.
I came up with a simple fix for my machine.
I bought a few of these from Fastenal ( they’re local for me).
They are 8-32x5/16 nylon tipped screws.
I then drilled and tapped this hole in my primer system. I drilled the next size larger hole in the primer feed tube.
Now when I have a priming problem I barely hand tighten the nylon tipped screw, remove the priming system and do the cleaning routine.
When I take the system off, it only drops 7 primers. That’s a lot better than 70!
If I’d do it over again, I’d drill the hole lower on that surface. Maybe I could have got it down to 5 or 6 primers.
Use for your own information fellow 1050 owners!
Links where to get the screws:
https://www.mcmaster.com/nylon-tip-set-screws
https://www.fastenal.com/product/fasteners/set-screws/socket-set-screws/600049?categoryId=600049&level=3&query=Nylon%2Btip&productFamilyId=25816
I have no affiliation with either McMaster Carr or Fastenal. I just went with a Fastenal because a distributor is just up the road from me.
You’re on your own for a tap and drill bit. I figure as handloaders you probably have basic tools. -
The thing I like about the Dillon powder check system is it lets me know if there's some type of debris in the case, I.E. tumbling media, spider web, 22 long rifle case, etc. As Cotys relates, you can tell a lot by watching the "V" too!
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10 minutes ago, TonytheTiger said:
I would try XBR 8208 for your purposes. The stuff is almost magic, AND it meters very well.
I have had very good results with XBR and H322 and 77 SMKs. With both powders the best results were near or at maximum charges.
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I've. had this problem too. Usually when I'm using Wolf primers. Perhaps it's the quality of the primers?
Usually when this happens I can push the primers down using the rod, and they start to feed again, which leads me to a quality issue with the primer.
As GringoBandito said above, make sure you clean your primer tubes! The first time I did that I was amazed at the yellow residue that was in the tube!
I'm hesitant to put any weight on the top of the priming rod. Remember, if you do have a primer detonation the additional weight on the primer rod might not be a good thing!
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Reinforce your bench. It's allowing too much viberation.
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You might want to remove the primer slide assembly and clean it out. From sitting that long, who knows what could be gumming things up? Whenever I have priming problems with the priming system, it's usually some spilled powder or tumbling media that affects the slide's travel. Also, make sure you have the primer slide in the correct way, with the roll pin to the right ( or outside ) of the machine.
Dont not be too quick to give up on your 1050, they are great machines!
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I had / have the same problem. On occasion, I'll hit the M die's mandrel with some motor mica. It helps for a while.
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One thing to keep in mind, this time of year in cold climates, houses tend to have lower humidity due to using a heating source. The solution might be something as simple as wiping your powder measure down with a used dryer sheet to cut down on static.
I've also had had the same problem as sschultz with a poor fit between the powder die and powder funnel.
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I think they make a blue pill for that Sarge!
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On 1/24/2017 at 3:12 PM, amada8 said:
I tried the bearing. It wasn't for me.
It was only a few years ago that I found out about adjusting the cam pin. It's kind of embarrassing, since I've been loading on a 650 since the early 90s! My first 650 doesn't have a hole in the crank for grease, let alone zerks! To grease the link arm pins, I have to remove them!
i know I'm never too old to learn!
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On 1/24/2017 at 7:36 PM, muncie21 said:
What's your approach to adjusting the cam pin?
When adjusting the cam pin I move the pin then slowly have the machine insert a case into the shell plate. If the case is fully inserted prior to the shell plate coming to a stop, you can see how this accelerates the shell plate, then suddenly makes it stop. Continue to adjust the pin until the full insertation of the case coincides with the exact moment the shell plate stops it's rotation
When you sit there and mess with it, you'll see what I mean. Adjust it to extremes it becomes evident how important this often overlooked adjustment is
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14 hours ago, StealthyBlagga said:
I don't have the roller version, but adjustment of either type is, IMHO, critical. If the case arrives in station 1 too early, then it "snaps" into place when the shell plate indexes, causing unnecessary vibration (powder jumping out of cases etc.). It is worthwhile to invest time getting the height right.
I agree! This is probably one of the most overlooked adjustments on the press and is a main cause of people's powder slinging complaints!
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Try adjusting your cam pin (13371). You'll notice if it isn't adjusted quite right, when a case is inserted too soon, it will accelerate the shell plate causing an acceleration and a abrupt stop spilling powder.
If if this is adjusted correctly there is no need to buy bearings.
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I've used the standard one for thousands upon thousands of rounds. It will work fine.
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In case you're in need of some:
Alloy Steel Shoulder Screw, 1/4" Diameter x 5/8" Long Shoulder, 10-24 Thread Size
https://www.mcmaster.com/#91259A539
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This happened to me before and there were two different causes.
The first time it happened there was tumbling media down in the casefeed plunger. It was a simple fix, I just cleaned it out and reassembled. Things were good to go.
The other time the locator tab bolt ( PN/ 13333) was slightly bent. I ordered some from McMaster Carr and I was back in business.
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They are a great machine, aren't they?
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Yeah, another thing, you might want to go to your local auto parts store and get a couple inches of 1/8" vacuum hose to replace the rubber on the back of your primer slide.
A couple of inches will will last a long time!
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When I reassemble my S1050 from maintenance I just lower the handle, slide the slide actuating lever all the way down until it bottoms out on the press platform, then raise the arm up about the thickness of a business card, cycle the handle to ensure things are smooth, and things are usually good to go.
I know things didn't work or fit too good the one time I put the primer slide in upside down! : )
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2 hours ago, Frank34 said:
Changing the time that you clean your brass won't help. The issue is the process, soap and water make the brass too clean. What I have done is to back my powder funnel out a bit and if you get it right you will eliminate a lot of the sticking. If you have a Mr. Bulletfeeder funnel the problem can even be worse. You can try to polish both types of funnels. You can also try the 1050 powder funnel as it bells the case differently. If you take the time to experiment you will probably get the sticking down to a tolerable level.
Just a heads up, the S1050's powder funnel does not expand the case. On the S1050 the case is expanded during the primer pocket swaging process.
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I know when I had this problem with my trim die the guy working Dillon's help line told me to hit the bottom if the die with some sandpaper and take a few thousandths off. I did and things work fine!
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I had the same problem with my .223 trim die. The customer service rep at Dillon told me to hit the bottom of the die with a disc sander and remove a few thousands of an inch. It has worked like a charm ever since.
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There are two Different adjustments for the case feed cam. One is to adjust the cam pin ( PN: 13371) up or down to adjust the case feed travel and the other is to loosen the case feed cam screw (PN 14037) and slide the cam foreword or back a little bit to adjust the travel. Watch out though when tightening the screw back up, it's very easy to strip! It sounds like your case feed cam screw may be loose.
I believe JJ is talking about the case feeder plate.
How To Easily Empty Primers On Dillon RL1050?
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Yes, that’s simpler, alright! Sometimes I overthink things. Although my modification works pretty good!