Wildkow

LoL! Thanks, and I confirmed this by processing about 500 pieces of brass last night. As long as it's just creepy I'm good LoL! I had one poster at another forum ask me to take it down, as it may offend the delicate sensibilities of some.

Here's a better picture (maybe) can anyone confirm this is installed correctly?

For around $50 you can send it into Dillon and they will do a complete rebuild. It sounds like a decent deal to me.

It does fit in both ways, so by the sharp side are you referring to the edge with the sharper angle? Therefore, mine is in the correct way? I've gotten both answers from Dillon or at least my interpretation of the answers I've gotten from Dillon sound as if I've gotten conflicting answers. I wish Dillon had an illustration or a picture on their site, do you have one?

Is the cutting blade on this Dillon Rapidtrim 1200B mounted in the right direction? Don't know why Dillon doesn't have a picture of this on their web site and talking to CS I get confusing replies.

I figured as much, looks like its time to find another range that I can use any ammo at. See if your range has a "Corking Fee" IOW tell them your story and ask if there is a small fee you can pay to use your own ammo.

See my avatar? That's how happy I am with my Cabela's tumbler!

9 Check my RMR mount here. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=117440 AM or PM? Wildkow

Haven't forgotten you guys but it's been raining like crazy here and the only day in the ten day forecast that looks like it may clear is this Thursday. Which just so happens to be the only day of the week the range is closed. But the forecast changes quite often and I'll keep and eye on it and report asap.

I'm guessing minimal but if'n your not in a hurry I'm heading back to the range over the weekend and try a few things related to that and I'll report back next week.

Hi Keith Got the email hope you don't mind me answering your questions here, I'd also send it via email but I can't seem to find out what it is as your email cane though the brianenos.com servers. Ok the last thing on my list was a magwell and I went with a cheaper plastic one that required a fair bit of modification in order that the taylor freelance brass +5 floor plate didn't stick. Since it was plastic no big deal just some elbow grease and time. I competed last Sunday in an IPSC/USPSA match and I was please with the results. Except don't try shooting competition without loctite on the threads holding the RMR onto the slide, don't ask me how I know this. I was shooting open major and my load was Montana Gold 357 SIG 125gr flat points, various brass, Federal small pistol magnum primers. 9gr HS6, (not the best powder) but it got me a ten shot average of 1344 fps, Standard Deviation of 23.2. Hi = 1379 Lo=130 and the Power Factor was just a smidge over 168. The recoil seemed quite manageable but one of the guys who has been competing and reloading for 20+ years mention that I shouldn't be afraid to go a couple of tenths of grains in order to make sure I don't straddle the line and get DQ'd if I ever have my rounds chrono'd. Some of them were below the 165 PF required. His reasoning, which sounded plausible to me was that a brake needs a certain amount of gas to actuate the brake and make it perform to the best of it's abilities. He suggested a good way to test it was by stand approx twenty feet from a paper target and shoot two quick shots and then measuring the group. Any more questions let me know!

It seems to shoot nice my XL650 is set to reload 3,000+ 55gr .223/5.56 from Montana Gold that I just got at the moment. So the only thing I've had a chance to shoot through it is about 40 rounds of Speer GD 357 SIG 125gr GDHP. After that the RMR went out so I have to tap it to turn it back on, Trijicon said either the battery tabs were flattened or the battery is perhaps jarring loose due to gap between batt and the bottom of the slide. Easy fix I'll let you know later. Check the mount I don't know if I'm happy with the exposed trigger safety spring or the squared mount instead of a shaped mount that fits the curved front of the RMR.

Here's my Glock 35 Open w/Trijicon RMR Glock 35 Trijicon RMR RM02 8.0 MOA LED GhostInc Rocket 3.5 lb Trigger Glockworx ZEV Tech Titanium Firing Pin Safety KKM Precision Glock 35 357 SIG Drop-in w/ 4 Port Comp Lone Wolf G35 slide "Melt In" milled for Trijicon RMR Forward Mount Taylor Freelance GOLD ADVANTAGE Glock +5 floorplate w/Spring x2 Prezine Magwell I bought enough parts from LWD so that I have two complete slides. I can now shoot Open with the LWD slide and RMR and Limited or Production sans magwell with my stock Glock 35 slide. That's why I only order the +5 Taylor Freelance floorplates. Later I hope to get the +8's and maybe a Dawson ICE magwell. I have Dawson sights on the G35 slide and will probably put the same on the LWD Open slide as backups but for now I'm out of money. LoL! The only problem I think is with the forward mount, I wanted this for the longer sight picture, the cut extends into the firing pin safety plunger tube spring thingy area sorta, did that make sense?

My set-up is as follows. . . Tumble brass LUBE Brass No.#1 Station 1 - Dillon .223 Carbide Sizing/Decapping Die Station 2 - Empty Station 3 - Dillon 1200b Trimmer - Difficult to insert pin and attach vacuum, but not impossible don't like leaving out the toolhead pins. Station 4 - Empty Station 5 - Lee Universal Case Expanding Die - Even if I'm using boat tails I still put a very slight flare in. Tumble to remove lube as there is no more sizing to do. Swage primers pockets if necessary. No.#2 Station 1 - Dillon Universal Decapping Die Station 2 - Seat primer, drop powder Station 3 - Dillon Powder Check Station 4 - Dillon Seating Die Station 4 - Dillon Crimp Die or Lee Factory Crimp Die to take out slight flare. Sir, Just curious. Do you realize a benefit by belling on your prep tool head rather than at the powder drop on your production tool head? Thank you. Phil McLaine As Berkim said above you don't usually bell/flare rifle brass. But I see two benefits actually 1) seating flat based bullets is easier 2) if you're using the Dillon 1200B case trimmer you don't have to chamfer/deburr the inside/outside of the case mouth BUT if there is a little tailing or rough edge after trimming the Lee Expander Die flattens/smooths the case mouth which helps prevent shaving a bit of brass or lead off the bullets as you seat. Hope this helps. BTW the rifle powder die does not or is not capable of belling/flaring the case mouth like the pistol dies do, as far as I know.

Best surface to hit the puller on is a concrete floor (I've also used an anvil). The problem I found with wood (e.g. stump) is that the wood absorbs too much of the energy and you don't get the required bounce. You end up having to hit it 5 or 6 times. When hitting on concrete floors most reloads I've pulled only take one or two sharp hits. Much easier to break the hammer hitting something hard and unyielding. Done two that way, just below the hammer on the handle. They were from Dillon but RCBS makes them.

I've just got the 1200B also and these are just a few observations I've discovered. My set-up is as follows. . . Tumble brass LUBE Brass No.#1 Station 1 - Dillon .223 Carbide Sizing/Decapping Die Station 2 - Empty Station 3 - Dillon 1200b Trimmer - Difficult to insert pin and attach vacuum, but not impossible don't like leaving out the toolhead pins. Station 4 - Empty Station 5 - Lee Universal Case Expanding Die - Even if I'm using boat tails I still put a very slight flare in. Tumble to remove lube as there is no more sizing to do. Swage primers pockets if necessary. No.#2 Station 1 - Dillon Universal Decapping Die Station 2 - Seat primer, drop powder Station 3 - Dillon Powder Check Station 4 - Dillon Seating Die Station 4 - Dillon Crimp Die or Lee Factory Crimp Die to take out slight flare.

Thnaks Ambi, I have been adjusting the shellplate using Dillon's recommended methods, i.e. only tighten so much to let the shellplate freely rotate with thumb pressure. I think that's how they put it. Would this method suffice you think? I seem to have problems at the primer/powder station with indexing to the shellplate and often have a slight misalignment which makes the primer hard to seat or it gets crushed. BTW I do have the thrust bearing and it makes loading 9mm soooooo much easier and with far less powder spill.

Yep, it's up and I scolded them something fierce. Told'em not to scare us like that again and suggested they put up a page that says their down for maintenance not out of biz as more than a few believed.

Just realized that a prior order from Widener's Reloading for 1,000 .224 69 grain mil-spec contained only 500 69 grain and 500 62 grain some other brand. When I went to http://www.wideners.com website it shuttled me over to http://www.icglink.net/ their web hosting company. I hope it's just maintenance and not that they went out of Biz. Has any one heard?

Thanks you guys some great information here. I'll redo the data table by seperating the two types of bullets and rerunning the calculations. Anymore tips on adjusting the XL650 for more consistant OAL's? Too_Slow thanks for that advice I'm 99.9% sure I did reset the seating die, here are the new results. Do they look out of line? I really haven't found much as to what tolerances are acceptable for varations in OAL.

I looked for a discussion on this topic and couldn't find what I wanted. So my question is what should the tolerances be for COAL, OAL or COL Cartridge Over All Length? For instance reloading .223 I set OAL to 2.250" see "mode" below in table. Surprisingly I hit that right on the head but the span between the high and low is as much as .051". About .025"(?) to either side of my target length. Note that I am using a 75gr Prvi JHPBT and a 64gr Winchester Soft Point Flat Base. Is that good, bad or normal? Even if that's good can I persuade someone to discuss the topic of adjusting a XL650 to give more consistent OAL's?

Are sights installed on a G19 interchangeable with say a G35? I have a set of Dawson's installed on my G19 but would like to move them over to my G35 when it comes. Thanks Wildkow

Well I haven't been able to find anything addressing what I'm asking about. A linky would be nice if it addresses the automation of that process and not just the manual side of it which I already know about. What about the RCBS Primer Pocket Swage Die? Anyone here try that on a progressive press like the 650? Wildkow

Thanks for the fast reply John. At this time I'm shooting a G19 so the cases are tapered although I don't think that matters with the EGW die, as a side note I have come across a bit of grousing concerning the EGW die on BE forums. Do you reload rifle and how do you take care of case prep and lubing? Right now I'm doing mine with a RCBS Trim Pro Center but I have neuropathy in my extremities and have lost muscle because of it and these old hands just don't have the strength that they once had. I don't think case trimming is as big a deal with pistol brass, for rifle I'm pretty sure it's a concern but if I'm picking pistol or any other kind of brass up off the range running it through a trimmer to confirm length isn't a bad idea right? BTW, do you know of a swage that will fit on a XL-650? Wildkow

I looked through a bunch of post but didn't find anything addressing this question. Is it possible to do every step of reloading, except tumbling, on a XL-650/1050 with either a single toolhead or multi-toolhead? I shoot Glocks 9mm and soon .40/.357 sig and .223 .270. So I believe, since I shoot Glocks, I should consider a different sizer/deprimer die or perhaps two seperate dies? If this is doable can you look this over and comment and if you don't mind me asking what's your setup? First tumble brass... then place in casefeeder on 650 Toolhead #1 Station #1 RCBS Lube Die and deprimer, Station #2 Resizer die EGW for Glock brass, or something similar GRX, CasePro? Station #3 Swager tool, is there a swage tool that will go on the XL-650? Station #4 Dillon 1200B Case Trimmer, I understand you don't need to chamfer if you use this tool? Station #5 Almost out of Stations, anything else? Case gauge, debur primer hole tool, bristle cleaner or something else before we get to the actual reloading or should I get a 1050? Retumble brass to clean off lube, Toolhead #2 Station #1 Empty? Station #2 Insert primer, bell pistol brass and drop powder Station #3 Powder check/Bullet feeder? Station #4 Seater die or/Bullet feeder if crimp is not necessary? Station #5 Crimp die or Seater die. So hows that look or am I irredeemably lazy?