feederic
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Posts posted by feederic
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If you use the powderfunnel.com expander on an LNL, do you still have to use the PTX powder measure stop gizmo on the powder measure like you do for the Hornady PTX?
I would highly recommend using the powder stop. I use one on my powderfunnel expander and it controls the bell as well as keeps the bell extremely consistent. Without it about 1/4 will not have a bell (in my experience with .40).
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When the 2013 limited/limited 10 rules go into effect, where would you mount the slideracker? It's not like you can mount it like an open gun.
You can have one already!
There was even a mention of it being already legal in a Front Sight issue not too far back.
I run one. I get funny looks and questions from people who do not read the rule book at every match. LOL.
And nope, doesn't get in my field of view at all while shooting.
And as soon as Nationals are over I am gonna start experimenting with a thumb rest at my local matches.
Everywhere I look, there is a surprising post by JaeOne3345! Did you feel any offsetting of your lightened slide by the slide racker?
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I spring mine a little heavier than average.
18lb Wolff Main
14lb ISMI
Lightened slide also.
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After using the PTX, RCBS, and now powderfunnel.com dies I can say that I believe the powderfunnel.com die works the best.
1. PTX - I couldn't quite get enough bell without dropping the powder drop itself too low in the press. I found the amount of bell kept differing too.
2. RCBS - Worked extremely well actually, but quite often the expanding part of the die would get caught in the case which yanks it out of the drop.
3. Powder funnel- doesn't expand, but bells nicely. Plus it doesn't try and find its way out of my powder drop.
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For those that use the LnL ap, would you buy the dillon or Redding dies for progressive loaders?
I am a huge fan of the dillon dies over redding. At least in 40/.45 they seem to hold their settings perfectly. Then again I now run mainly Lee dies.
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Honestly, with the arredondo extension I don't know why anybody would want to sacrifice the perfect reloadability / reliability of 20+1 to begin with by trying to cram an extra round in there.
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What's the life expectancy of the LnL ap compared to the 550B? Will Hornady rebuild the press for free like dillon offers?
Not sure if this was answered, but my dad has an older Hornady press with around 300,000 rounds on it. After fiddling with it I realized the components were worn down to the point it wouldn't index sharply or precisely as well as feed primers reliably. I called hornady and they said to box it up and they will rebuild it for free. I don't think you need to worry about wearing these machines out.
My experience with Hornady CS has kept me a customer. Anytime a part breaks I have a replacement within the week.
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.40 major and clays was a no no for me. I loaded out to 1.23 and still had overpressure.
.40 major and universal was OK.
I recommend and EGW U-Die for .40.
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Just to echo what was said above, ensure you are not loading too long and make sure you are crimping enough.
With an EGW U-Die, I have taken the nastiest bulged Glock'd LEO brass I could find and after one pass they will go in my chamber forward and backwards. That same brass when loaded might not chamber though if I don't crimp enough, or the bullet is hitting the leade of the barrel because I have loaded too long. Both of those scenarios appear to be a bulged case when the round won't chamber because the last 1/4 or so of the round is sticking out of the chamber.
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So the answer seems to be lower the bell so there is a greater flare placed the the bullet casing?
Yes.
I had the same issue with Berry's plated. Increased the bell and no more wrinkles. Don't go overboard. I use a bullet feeder and bell enough so the bullet sits in the case and doesn't tumble out on a fast index.
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Definitely need more bell. The wrinkled bullet opens up the case a little more, thats why the second bullet doesn't wrinkle when you put that casing back into stage 2.
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Odds are the over-travel screw was not set properly and the hammer took out the sear.
I agree based on the damage in the middle of the sear.
That cut on the sear is done to fit to the safety. That way if the trigger components are replaced, you won't have to replace the safeties too.....cut the cheapest part of the equation in other words.
Got it, on my phone it appeared the relief went all the way down the sear leg.
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Wow! Yes that does resemble an EGW sear. It looks like the middle of the sear took a beating from the half cock notch too. I have not heard of a sear nose shearing off like that.
Interesting relief cut where the sear spring rides.
Perhaps stress from hammer over-cocking?
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FWIW, I bought the RCBS expander for my LNL powder drop. Quite often then cases latch on to the die, and when lowering the handle the RCBS die will be pulled a majority of its length out of the powder drop. I then need to use the ram to push the die back in. It will be coming out shortly and replaced with the powderfunnel die.
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I've been loading berry's 180 out to 1.21 and every now and then I get a round that won't quite chamber all the way. I found out with bullets > .400 I get this issue and can't load longer than 1.18. A vast majority of the rounds mic out to .3995-.400 but if they are .4005 and up they simply won't chamber at the lengths I like.
Can someone recommend a gunsmith with a quick turnaround time to open up the leade?
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Irv Stone III at Bar-Sto precision is who I go to.
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I carry two backup guns. Although, one is .45.
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Thanks for the tip on the lock washer.
This has definitely been a golden tip! I have not had to readjust my shellplate since the washer went on.
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My open glock 34 ejects very well but it almost always stovepipes the last round in the mag. Does anyone know why this happens?
Sounds like an extractor tension problem.
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Is this your first time with that setup?
Tuning the springs, and ammo to the gun has always made a huge difference for me. I am always asked if I am shooting 9mm when shooting .40 major. People also mention how my gun barely moves, even though like you I have bear paws for hands and am built like a gorilla.
In fact my .45 major loads frequently pass for 9mm also, until I chrono them.
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Quick updated. Was told how to check the extractor tension. Darn thing didn't even think about holding an empty case. I manually adjusted it so that it would hold a loaded round. I'm assuming that it will quickly go back to junk. Should I replace it all together? I have to admit I'd be glad if this is the fix and I don't have the shame of saying it was my thumbs dragging on the slide
Check to make sure the tip of the extractor is not hitting the case bevel. I had a .45 that lost tension after 1 mag because of this. 1 caspian extractor later and its been years of reliable performance.
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You don't need any jig to square the hammer hooks. Just a stone that you can verify is square. Unfortunately the brownells hammer hook stones have been very hit and miss lately on being square. About 50/50. So if you have access to a surface plate where you can check for square that is the best way to go.
You know what? I did have one of their stones and could not square up the hooks for the life of me. My surface plate showed that the stone is quite out of square!
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I just use wooden dowels, either from Home Depot or an art store. They work fine and only cost a couple bucks.
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A good square stone is the way to do it. Assuming you don't have a mill.
Nope no mill.
I still use the Brownells / Marvel jig, it won't cut hook heights but is useful for cleaning up the hooks. The mill is my last resort.
This is this jig I had in mind, but I wasn't sure if I wanted to shell out 150 bones for one just to clean up the hook angles. I do have a machinist vice though.
Never seen this type of failure before!?
in 1911-style Pistols
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Looks like a standard bolt over base misfeed.