feederic
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Posts posted by feederic
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Sorry fellas i dont check the reloading forum very often.
I get them from Miwall, a vendor at the gunshow. I believe Redline relocated?
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I would never think a broken link is from fatigue. Send it off, get it diagnosed/fixed, clear it out from the back of your mind.
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I shoot berrys plated all the time. $80/k, no shipping as I buy them locally. Can't beat that!
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Definitely useful! Anybody else?
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I am looking for commonly available and used .40 bullets that are difficult to feed. Does anybody have input on common bullets that were hard to achieve reliable feeding with?
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I had to remove quite a bit of metal on the steel grip to fit my frame. It is far from drop in.
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According to Max's FB page, many distributors have them in already.
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Luckily I know someone that can nickel boron plate my gun for me for cheap. I might have someone locally cerakote the exterior.
Lots of great info everyone
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Great; thanks.
Ordered mine yesterday, it shipped today.
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Hello: It depends how tight the fit is. I had one done and it was a good tight fit before the coating. After the coating I could not assemble it. I had to remove the coating from the rails. That is was a real pain in the arse! I would check with who you are using to see what they think. My local guy now knows not to coat the rails on new guns from me. Thanks, Eric
I called up a few local places and they said .0005 to .001 would build up. I think this would be too much for my pistol. Do you leave the frame rails uncoated now?
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I have a tightly fitted pistol I've been shooting in the white for awhile, and would like to get it cerakoted.
Does the inside of the slide and frame get coated? Wouldn't this affect fit (i.e. slide no longer goes on the frame)?
Does anybody know of people local to Southern CA that has coated tightly fitted pistols?
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Well well well....I crossed over from my hornady into a brand new Dillon 1050. I ordered from Dillon on Tuesday and it was at my house on Friday, odd considering they told me 6-10 weeks. But I'm happy!
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Holy thread ressurection Batman!
Didn't Barsto move out of CA a few years ago?
That they did.
I have a BS40 and a BS45, they both run like tops. The new BS40 I have has been perfectly reliable and bang on accurate from day 1.
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Thanks, I'll take a peak.
I have an orange armorer's plate, and know to check for 2/3rds engagement across the trigger bar and striker. I was curious about the vertical engagement though, how high up from the bottom of the lug should the trigger bar interface at.
The 2009 Glock Armorer's Manual says a minimum of 2/3rds of the rear of the trigger bar should be engaged by the rear lug of the striker/firing pin.
In order to check this you need an orange armorer's slide plate cover (or a stock one that is cut so you can check engagement. You can get one of the slide covers from Lone Wolf or GlockParts.
If you haven't seen it got to this link and scroll down, there are several Glock Armorer's manuals 2009 is the newest. Page 65 will show what I'm talking about.
http://stevespages.com/page7b.htm
Dave
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I've picked up a trigger housing with pre/post travel stops. Just out of curiosity, are there any hard limits or guidlines for how much sear engagement and drop safety engagement there should be? I know how to check all three safeties for function, but am more curious as to the clear zone, gray zone, and unsafe zone in terms of engagement surface dimensions.
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This particular gun is shot with nothing but factory ammo on a stock Sig 1911. Just to give you an idea, loading up the mags and using your thumb to push the top round out causes a nosedive. The back of the feedlips have manufacturing burs that almost act like a retention mechanism on the rim. These burs act as a pivot point while retaining the rim causing the top half of the round to nosedown. I used the shank of a drill bit, a vise, a tiny ballpeen hammer, another homemade gadget for setting the feedlips, and some stones to straighten them out and polish them up. Now the rounds feed straight into the chamber without resistance.
Success! I gave the rest of the mags this treatment and they all feed like butter from round 1-10. I enjoy the experimenting process almost more than the shooting process
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These are both 10 rd mags. Chip McCormick and Wilson 47T. I'll try and snap some pictures or a video later.
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Yes it is for .45. Its a combination of nosediving and three point jam. Not a nosedive jam. The round noses down and then abruptly comes back up and can't cam under the extractor causing a three point. Its factory ball ammo, and the problems with the troublesome mags occur in multiple 1911s. At the very back of the feed lips are small divots that seem to retain the rim of the case, I've polished one up to alleviate it and its working much better. I'd much rather straighten that area out altogether so the round feeds up nice and smoothly.
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This is actually the first time I've seen the need on SS mags. The first 2-3 rounds in two of the mags nosedive so bad they barely clear the mags just to cause a nasty three point jam.
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Today at the range, my friend was having nose dives with the first two rounds of his fully loaded Chip McCormick and Wilson Combat mags. They both had this weird wave taper to the feedlips, narrow to wide to narrow and could be straightened out. I've tuned several STI mags with the Dawson kit, but I don't have a suitable mandrel for single stack mags. What tools do people in the benoverse use?
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I've had numerous issues with my case feeder and .40 only. The supplied drop tubes just do not work with .40. The small tube is too small, and the large tube is too big. I had to use some PVC and did some grinding on the drop tube parts to get it to work.
From what I hear, Hornady now has a special .40 drop tube/bushing that works like a charm. You have to call them and order it though.
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If I had to do it again, I would get a Mr. Bulletfeeder.
1) I constantly outrun the Hornady bulletfeeder and need to take a break.
2) The feeder doesn't stop when the tube is full.
3) It is LOUD. I double plug my ears now.
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So you ended up tuning your tuned mags? Or am I missing something?
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Did Mr. Browning put it in there?
I agree that he should remove it, but with that logic, there is a whole ton of stuff on our modern pistols that shouldn't be in/on the gun.
I was never a fan of that logic myself. Sevigny/Bomar/Novak sights, modular aluminum triggers, slide lightening, ambis, memory groove grip safeties, lightened hammers, bull barrels, aftecs, ramped barrels...I don't recall any of that being in Mr. Browning's M1911 blueprints.
Aside from that, yes remove it.
Plated vs. Jacketed .40 pros/cons?
in 10mm/40 Caliber
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Could've pm'd me to get my attention