Banker Bob

Good stuff (mostly!) I love to shoot so am referred to as a cross-dresser with USPSA and CAS interests! Wild Bunch matches kicked around local clubs for many years --finally officially added by SASS with tremendous responce, and now a standard set of rules. However, some local clubs start at condition 1, cocked and locked and have a variety of categories for various guns. Your 1897(the current rules only allow 1897 -original or replica and only 1911 45 acp for pistols) should be modified to hold 6 rounds in the mag as many stages require that number--(In CAS, all shotguns are staged empty, action open and usually shoot comstock for knockdowns.) WB is non-comstock --aka virginia count, one shot per target gun loaded with correct # of rounds --chamber empty. Mernicle-see his web site- has a very popular WB steel lined, holster rig--may as well add 3 double mag pouches as sometimes you may shoot 30 pistol rounds (that',s 5 mags, 5 rounds each plus one in the gun--occasionally a rifle round or shotgun round will get ejected via operator error (or?)so you should have a couple of rounds handy --A belt slide can come in handy.-also made by Bob Mernicle (Bob probably has all in stock but his custom work is usually only about 3 weeks--from experience!) Some carry a mag (remember the 6th mag pouch?)with a single round should a jam with resulting ejection of a live round happen--much quicker than loading a full mag, ejecting it and bringing the pistol to slide lock--which must happen after every mag. PF is 150 plus-both rifle and pistol-chrono'd at major matches. Bullets must be lead only. Check out SASSnet.com for more details! Costuming is circa WWI with military the most popular. Full Race 1897's are available from the Squibber, Johnny Meadows and Coyote Cap-all I know as good folks --should find them via google-- WB is a different challenge --and like the other shooting sports --lots of fun! Shoot straight! Banker Bob ,aka bobwyo, aka etc, etc.

Thanks all. I have studied Wiegand's article in Brownells --have swapped sears but not hammer-have checked with blue the engagement of the sear/ hammer which looks ok--- I need to go to 4.5 lb + with sear/disco spring adjustment (have tried various springs as well)to not have periodic follow through. Also I have swapped hammer springs down to 15lb with negligible difference. Guess that the next step is stoning the sear & trigger &/or replacing the hammer as well as the sear. I don't need -or want bullseye superlight- but looking for a reliable 3 to 3.5lb, which is probably as low as one should go for action competition. BB

From the far side of the river----(aka, a cross dresser????) Having same problems--(in Wild Bunch --a new side of Cowboy action)==and having some follow thru issues. ON THE CLOCK--we must draw and cycle the gun as the chamber must be empty, but with mag loaded, --but only 5 rounds so not full mag spring tension--- (then shoot to slide lock) -duh--it would be a real challenge to hold the trigger back while racking the slide--(ok,different when clearing off the clock) then we must shoot to slide lock, reload and then drop the slide, again on a 5 round mag). So while there is no situation when a slide is dropped on an empty chamber --except when clearing the gun--WB folks are regularly dropping the slide on a short, fresh mag from slide lock. (all virginia count--spo no make ups!) I can track that there should USUALLY have no follow thru when a cartridge is in the mag--but what can be done to tighten things up? Does a heavier hammer spring help or ---- I have found that only an adjustment of the sear spring helps --and that results in a heavier TP than I like??? (since my single actions and rifle have 2 lb triggers I am somewhat spoiled---) BB

Check Woodworker's supply--Have one of their tools that I like --has the flex handle which comes in handy sometimes. All Dremel bits work. But agree that the dremel type tools should be the last tool--not the first tool you reach for!BB

Thanks, all. I think I understand the mission: 1. find an upper for sale or order; 2. buy it and shoot it, realizing that I may swap out the brake or follow Kurt's suggestion to have it rebuilt (I have retained all comments so I don't have to ask again for info for changing); 3. appreciate that if that is the only part I want to enhance, replace, or throw away, I am way better than my average on new a firearm purchase! BB (love this forum!!!-Patrick's first line took a good belly laugh before I could get to his real comment! given that AR parts are still in short supply and my summer is pretty full, I will wait for his article before a brake decision is made)

Thanks, folks Anyone out there that likes it?? bb

In a Front Site article referenced elsewhere there is a comment to the effect that the blast of this this brake could be felt on the shooter's face. Since some of us will flinch with little or no excuse and since I am in the process of putting together a Tac AR, -(would like to buy a complete upper) any feedback I could have on this issue would be appreciated! BB

okay, i'll check out the dawson fiber optic front sight. That along with a trigger job should be a nice setup for my better half. Sights, trigger job, extended mag release, and solid guide rod are some of the typical upgrades for a production xd/m What (and where is it?)research did you do? -I tried to move the site a litttle to tune up a left impact--found it didn't move! Now I'd like to change sites, reluctant to just get a bigger hammer! bob

In case you get back to this--you may find 308--particularly the gas guns, are hard on brass --watch for stretch ring ahead of the case head.--the Lake City is a little heavier so will last longer(don't use max win loads in the LC brass without dropping back--) ----the case length final test is to try to slide a new bullet in the fired case--if there is resistence at the neck tip , such as a crimp would feel, the neck may be contacting the front of the chamber and creating a " crimp" when fired. You then know that the case needs trimmed! (If you are shooting mil brass that was crimped --trim much of that crimp off that off --easier to get consistency than to straighten out the mil crimp)-- I found that my M1a springfield SM required its brass to be trimmed every firing--whereas the bolt gun brass would go 4-or 5 before trimming--so I just adopted a practice of trimming every firing--that was a pain so got a Gracey to make the effort easy ! I have known HP gas gun shooters (High Masters-not beginners) that just rimmed to 1.9--knowing that the case was due to separate well before it reached a problem length. Short is much better than too long! BB

Thanks to both--still open for ideas--looking for Matt's dvd and will probably eventually go for an action job--just want to break it in first. BB

sorry-double tap BB

New to Tac shotgun -getting old so I started with an M2, 18.5, GR sites. Great gun! Has had only a couple of boxes thru it but runs flawlessly with 1oz loads and 7/8 are now cycling most of the time. Only complaint(s) is a creepy trigger (will see if it smooths out) and a rough surface on the cartridge retaining catch with heavy spring on the cartridge retaining catch --takes more effort to load than other tube SGs I have. Has anyone lightened the spring or polished the catch surface? And, are there other issues that I could expect--? Are there any books that would be helpful? I am looking at larger carrrier release knob-and maybe a new bolt handle. Preferences would be appreciated.! thanks BB