p7fl

I need help finding a new holster for my HK P7M13 that I use in Production. I’ve been using a Mad Dog Taylor Thunderbolt in steel plates/uspsa and occasionally idpa. Great holster but it is cut way more than ¼ below the ejection port. Kydex seems the preference and after that just the usual needs of stability, security and speed. Bladetech seems a popular choice but I’ve got one for another gun and it doesn’t feel as stable as the Mad Dog. Help is appreciated.

I’ve got a Colt 1911 in 45 that had both the barrel and slide ported to shoot Bowling Pins. If I replace the barrel with a non ported one but the slide still has a cut out on the top would it be legal in L-10? TIA

Our club shoots on a 180 degree plane with 4 squads shooting at the same time. To make sure walls are not hit etc usually the two end stages start and end in a shooting box. Questions: if the written directions are start with both feet in BOX A, engage P1, exit Box engage P2 etc is the reading. If the shooter raises one foot in the air or has one foot in and one foot out...are they now out and able to engage P2 or do both feet have to be out. Yesterday I RO'd the answer as two feet are IN the box and anything else is out. Any thoughts....?

Great information. I was not aware about the iris constricting improving depth of vision. This weekend I will use the grey to RO, paste etc and switch to a clear lens and a hat when I am in the hole. thanks.

Can anyone give me an preference and logic for lens colors for shooting on a bright sunny day. I am using a grey now.. TIA

Its almost always the same problem when the P7 slide sticks- you have really clean the piston cylinder. Use the tool that came with the gun and put pressure when turning. Clean out all the junk inside the cylinder. Lightly clean the piston also but not to the point where its shining. Go real light on lubricant. Should eliminate the problem.

Using the trigger finger to drop mags works great on the HK P7.