bsp212

Follow up on my Accurate Iron experience. Once I got contact info for Mike communication was excellent. I had about a 12 day turn around on my bolt including shipping and weekend days. The work is superb, it cycles flawlessly and looks awesome! Mike is a great guy to do business with!

Mike emailed me back a couple of days ago. I shipped the bolt to him yesterday,

Ok, tried the Boomer Shooter route. I'll see what happens with that.

Website is down. I (finally) have a spare Benelli bolt to send them but can't find contact info. Does anyone know how to reach them?

After researching the rules this gun looks like a great option. What were the shooters at nationals unhappy about?

Since 9mm and .40 use the same ejector, you could always build 2 top ends for the same frame. Start with the .40 since it's dual purpose, then build the 9mm top end when you can.

They work great for loose shotgun shells too

I used a 1/2" 8-32 stainless hex head screw and a flat washer. It worked perfectly.

I've got one with close to 15k on it. I rebuilt it just over 12k. No issues at all, trigger pin holes have lots of slop in the receiver, tried some kns pins and had the same issue as you. Plus trigger pull weight so high it topped out the scale. Put the old pins back in and everything went back to normal.

Impact is a great place to shoot most of the time. I've shot 3 gun there several times. Your match experience will depend on who your RO is. Most of them are good guys but a bad apple can spoil the bunch. My only other complaint is the stage set up on thr "big bay". It usually has a high round count on paper and takes forever to reset between shooters. It's fun to shoot, but some static steel targets would be beneficial on that particular bay. It's still a fun match and most all of the shooters there are a pretty good group.

Just checked, it's actually only a couple of days short of 5 weeks with no answer...

My email has gone approximately one month in returned...anyone got any ideas?

Purchased this scope last month. 3 matches through it and now reticle turns on and off between shots. Anyone experience this with theirs?

Considering a replacement bolt is $300+...I think what he charges is a fair price. He has a business to run. No one should expect him to release trade secrets. Easy solution if you don't want to send him your bolt is find someone that has a lightened bolt and measure the cuts.

Dave's metal works and a couple of others make an extended tube for the m4. There are also us made plastic forends for the m4 as well as the surefire. Plenty of parts out there, just need to search. The surefire forend works well and is not too bulky with the ladder type rail covers. Sorry for getting off topic.

No advantage that I'm aware of, just gives the m4 another 922r compliant part.

aggunner came through with the 21" gun. Picked it up Monday. I'll probably pick up a 24" soon too. Thinking about shooting open class as soon as I get into a new house....need a loading room....

I ended up using an SVI barrel that came chambered and got lucky enough not to have to touch it once it was fitted. Don't ask me how that worked out, it just did. Barrel/gun shoots great.

You can get a Krieger for about the same price as a Shillen. The Krieger is cut rifled and based on my experience with custom rifle barrels will shoot a little faster than the button rifled barrels. I'm not saying one is better than the other, just some of us prefer cut rifled barrels. Also check out White Oak Armament. They also use the Wylde chambering as well as .223 and 5.56 and offer some different profiles in 16, 18, & 20" lengths. I would stay away from 16" barrels because depending on the ammo you use, you may or may not make minimum power factor. IMHO, you won't notice the difference in weight/handling characteristics between the 16" and 18" barrels (or 20" for that matter) when you're on the clock. I like my 20" HBAR profile because that's what I'm comfortable shooting. 1/8 twist is probably going to serve you best but a 1/9 will do fine too. I think most people aren't shooting heavier than 55gr. bullets because there just aren't that many long shots in 3-gun where a heavy bullet would perform better so anything faster than 1/8 just isn't necessary. Stay away from the chrome lined barrels and get a good stainless one. You will probably see 2500 rounds minimum on a stainless barrel before you see any really noticeable drop in accuracy. Even then it will still more than likely shoot accurately enough for 3-gun. This isn't bench rest shooting. The longest distance I've ever seen a target at a 3-gun match was 610 yards. Only one person hit it. It was a 4MOA target. In other words, if your gun is shooting 1MOA or less, you are good to go. Like others have said, get a rifle length stock/buffer and run with it. Check out the ACE skeleton stocks. They have a nice foam pad on top for a comfortable cheek weld. Your gun will likely be an evolution of parts as you figure out what works for you and what doesn't. Mine started out as a Colt 20" HBAR flat top in 1997. Now the only parts left on the gun from Colt are the upper, lower, buffer tube, some (not all) of the pins, the safety, bolt release, and mag release.

Got an email back from Murphy's stating 1-2 weeks ETA on 21's and 24's. Local shop says they can get me one in 60 days. Guess I'll go that route if I miss one from Murphy's. It's time to dump the 11-87....

I have been diligently looking for one. No one i have talked to has one in stock and I have had estimates on order times from 60 days to infinity.

Title says it all....

What are good choices for a .40 S&W chamber reamer?