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mikey357

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Posts posted by mikey357

  1. I've got a pretty nice Second-Gen 21 I might "Play With" some day...the QUESTION is, can I use it in CDP since it has had a Grip Reduction and Stippling Job? This was pre-SF, BTW...and it FEELS BETTER to me than the SF, too....mikey357

  2. If you overlube it, it will just attract dust and not work any better.

    IMHO Stay away from Break Free / CLP. It's thick, the teflon doesn't stay suspended, and the chlorinated cleaners will create hydrochloric acid (in an airtight environment, but why risk it?).

    I AGREE about NOT "Over-lubing"--at least, as far as Glocks are concerned!!!--but I use "Break Free CLP" on ALL my guns, with COMPLETE satisfaction...on the Glocks, I MAY use a DAB of a LIGHT grease--like Wilson's "Ultima Lube"--on the Connector/Trigger Bar interface, but otherwise, it's ALL CLP for ME, Baby!!!... :closedeyes: ....mikey357

  3. ..and here I thought the ONLY "Advantage" to being a "2152" was NOT being SHOT AT! OT can be NICE, too!!!... :roflol: ....mikey357

    Overtime Bart man!

    I've been called out on Thanksgiving with company in the house and just prior to the meal being served ( I WAS PISSED!)

    2 barricaded subjects on seperate Christmas Eves.

    Innumerable weekends and other holidays being ruined due to the pager/cell phone going off.

    Goes with the job I guess.

    Sucks....but it only sucks a lot!

    JK

    JK, we don't get overtime brother! :roflol:

    We do get a fixed percentage extra for "unscheduled" work...as do all 1811 series folks. The bummer is if you work 50 hours in a week (standard) or 100, you get paid the same :(

  4. I've actually seen the Weigand Interchangeable Front Base installed TWO ways...the more "Expedient" way is to just D&T the barrel after milling off the original sight base, and screw it on...the more "Pleasing" installation involves milling a recessed "Channel" for the Weigand base--as illustrated in SDM Fabricating's EXCELLENT Pictorial on the subject, on their website--THEN intalling it...the Weigand Base then appears to be part of the barrel, rather than just sit on top of it...looks more "Original" that way, PLUS gets the front sight a tad lower...

    FWIW, the Weigand Front Sights come in at least three different heights, IIRC--.200 inch high, .250 inch high and .300 inch high...HTH....mikey357

    Just one caution on the Weigand front sight. I have one on my Model 17 and love it but it is tall and on the back site I had to go to the largest or next largest blade, normally on N frame, to make the sights work.
  5. Tom's approach seems to work the best with the "Ribbed" Wolff Mainsprings...and it is very REPEATABLE, too...I'm CHEAP, so I buy the set screws at "Home Despot" ...It DOES SEEM that Smith Stainless Mainsping Tension Screws are SOFTER than the BLUE ones, doesn't it??? Wonder why that is???....mikey357

  6. I'd HATE to tell ya' HOW LONG--and how many ROUNDS FIRED--it took me to "Figger' It Out!!! It REALLY IS kinda' SIMPLE when you think about it, huh? Maybe THAT'S my problem..."Kinda' Simple"!!!... :cheers: ....mikey357

    'Course, if ya' hafta' RELOAD "On The Clock" very often in "Steel", you're not gonna' place very well...HTH....mikey357

    Now I get it!!! :goof:

  7. I have shot the seven-shot 686 "Plus" and a coupla' "Performance Center" eight-shooters at "Steel"...I use "Moonclips" with the eight-shot guns, and HKS Brand Model 587 "Speed Loaders" for the "Load and Make Ready" with the seven-shooters...

    My "Secret Weapon"--besides keeping the Competition LAUGHING SO HARD that they can't SEE STRAIGHT--is a HANDFUL of the German-made "S.L. Variant" spring-loaded seven-shot Speed Loaders...kinda' like Comp III's but for the SEVEN-shot L-frames...'Course, if ya' hafta' RELOAD "On The Clock" very often in "Steel", you're not gonna' place very well...HTH....mikey357

  8. uummm...you DO KNOW that the extractor rod on all S&W's since the late 50's is a LEFT-HAND thread, right? If you attempt to "Loosen It" the "Conventional" way, you are really just TIGHTENING it!...let me know if this does NOT help!....mikey357

  9. Yeah, I'm kinda' FUNNY about the UNfluted cylinder thing...I THINK it's a PROPORTION thing, or something...maybe, "Phase of the Moon"???...I've got one of the three-inch barreled Model 629 "Snubbies" that "Looks Fine" to my eyes...but the LONGER-barreled guns just don't cut it, IMHO, with the UNfluted "Wheel"...FUNNY, I know...

    On a slightly DIFFERENT subject, I notice that "Bud's" shows the six-and-a-half inch 610's "In Stock", and with the FLUTED "Wheel"...hhmmm...anybody know a GOOD 'smith who'll cut one down for a REASONABLE Price???...hhmmm....mikey357

    Second, it has that CURSED UNfluted cylinder--canya'tellIdon'tlike'em???

    Man, and I love unfluted cylinders on N frames!

  10. I actually DID think about "Cutting Down" the 6 & 1/2 inch 610 that RGS ended up with...Three things stopped me...

    First, it is a pretty decent "Pre-Lock" revovler, and in about a hundred years, it MIGHT be worth something in its' original configuration...Second, it has that CURSED UNfluted cylinder--canya'tellIdon'tlike'em??? Third is the COST of having one "Cut Down"...guess I'm just a CHEAP S.O.B. at heart... :roflol: ....mikey357

    You could always cut a 6.5" 610 down to 5" without too much effort.

    This is the kind of scenario, by the way, that led a group of us here to campaign the BOD to change the Revolver Division rules to allow replacement barrels, modified barrels, and aftermarket barrels. As long as it's not ported or comped, you can pretty much put whatever tube you want on your Revo and have at it!

  11. RGS, GLAD you LIKE the 610! Now, IF I could find a FIVE-inch 610 for LESS THAN an "Arm and a Leg", I think I'd give IT a try...it would be a lil' HEAVIER than the 625 five-incher, but not as "Front Heavy" as the six-and-a-half incher...MIGHT be the "Best of ALL Worlds"...mikey357

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