Akula

How big is the center dot?

Too bad, I no longer have the MTAC. I could have taken a reticle picture of it. 409gms or 14.4oz with my Chicom digital kitchen scale.

I'm getting the drift of the advices. But it would be pretty difficult to get back to that range because of distance, but maybe in a few months time. For visual perspective, here are a few photos (not mine) The zeroing bay : The competition area :

Last weekend’s medium range rifle shoot was the most challenging in my(our) limited/novice trigger time in rifle competition. My rifle supposedly had an initial zero at 41mtrs for a 200mtr return zero. At 100 meters it was at around 2” high POI over POA. My home range only has at most 110 meters (with a slight 10-deg angle). I have to rely on these figures to compute for 150 and 200 POIs. We had no access to a longer range. Equipment : 16” BCM middy 410 SST 1/8 with VTAC-TRX 11”, Vortex PST 1-4x in Bobro Mount, Geiselle Hi-Speed, Bobro gen2 bipod. Ammo – 69gr SMK with 22.7gr VV N133. We had to drive about 7 hours to the competition range. It had a large wide bay divided into 4 competition stages, while there was also narrower one that was offered for zeroing purposes. In between was a hill about 12 meters high. I reconfirmed my scope’s zero with a handful of table shoots (using the bipod) and it was hitting about 2-3” high at 100 and 150 meters POI over POA. An 8x8 steel plate at 200 was gong’ed. Temperature around 92-98-degF. NOW – going into my first stage – it had a horizontal log placed as a barricade. It’s height was awkward so its either you shoot at high prone using handguard as support, or my bipod in unstable position on top of the log. I chose the later. When it was my turn, I had difficulty hitting the 150m plate array, so I decided to switch to the 185-200 plates. To my dismay, I had to hold about 2” up high (12 o’clock) above the 8-10” plates. POI is already in downward trajectory when they are supposed to be DEAD CENTER or still upward at this distance. When the 150m plates were engaged, I still had a 12 o’clock hold. I thought it was just me and bipod ‘harmonics’ but… my second stage which was done with a 30-rdr mag as support (bipod is forbidden in this stage), similar POI/POA differentials happened. Most of my teammates also noticed the same confusing trajectories. It seemed that bullet velocity was slower in this bay. I had to make a 3-clicks (.2 MRAD per click) to correct the disparity for the other two stages Anybody had similar experience where each bays have different bullet drop profiles? Is there some wind 'vortex' sucking down our bullets at that particular bay?

A5 buffer on top; regular carbine buffer on the bottom.

Thanks for the reply. Sorry for the confusion. As originally posted, I'm only using the Lee Reloader press for .223 loaded. I've been loading for more than a year for it. I have upgraded with all the other case prep tools, including automated trimmer. I'm using a Lee perfect powder measure, plus a digital scale where I do powder trickling. I'm already using a 550B for my pistol/.40 needs. Too much work and volume there, so I need the progressive press. However, I don't want to use this for my 223 needs. What I'm doing is really separating my 223 loading. I like it in a batch and meticulous manner, although I only shoot up to 300-350 yards. Volume is low, only loading at maximum 100 rounds. I'm o-conus and components are quite expensive in our next of the woods. My needs is to have an almost dedicated 'die holders' which I just can turn/switch -- thus the question regarding Lee turrets.

I already have a Lee Reloader (Single-stage) Press for my 223 loading. I'm looking for upgrades, so that I don't have to change dies frequently. What are the feature advantages of the Lee Classic Turret over the regular Lee Turret Press? Offhand, I see that LCT does seemed to have a sturdier base. Further -- why is the Classic Cast Press cost as much as the Classic Turret? Thanks.

They replaced my twisted shaft. I was so stupid in twisting up the shaft during a 'stuck case' situation. Kudos to Dillon CS.

Hi, I've been using LEE PERFECT POWDER for powder dispensing with my LEE Single Stage for spartan 223 reloading. After using it for more than a year and more than 2,000 rounds -- I have noticed significant wear on the innards of the plastic wheel. I'm planning to upgrade and invest considerable more to replace it. But I would like to still maintain a separate powder measure rather than press-based. I'm looking at either RCBS Uniflow or Redding BR3, although I'm confused on which accessories are needed. Please recommend which item(s) and accessories are needed. You can also recommend other brands or solutions. Also -- I use 55gr FMJ, 62gr FMJ, 69SMK and 77SMK, so I adjust the micrometer from time to time.

// OT // @Todd -- is this different with the TRX Alpha rail which debut last Shot Show?

Where could we get extra or replacement trigger spring for the Geisselle Hi-Speed? Anybody have contact email?

I'm still eagerly awaiting for the release of the 'shorter' Meopta K-Dot, (re)released Vortex Viper PST and Super Sniper -- All in 1-4 flavors, which were annouced last January yet.

Have you ever experienced the top round on the spare mag walk?

I did some camming and the WOA-18's problem went away. However, Rainier's persist on some of the brass, especially (those I think) are fired more than 3x already. Some of the items that I think I should do is -- 1. Check the headspace, probably using the Hornady Lock-N-Load™ Headspace Gauge Tool. I need to order this. I'm not familiar on how to use this, but the manual should not be too difficult to read. 2. Adjust the cam, after getting the headspace tool? Or strip the shell plate. (I'm not comfortable doing it on the die, as I reload for my other barrels also) 3. Get a .223 bullet gage. Some are recommending Dillon or JP; but I've read before that Wilson is also top notch. 4. Do I really need to get a small base die? I would prefer Redding. 5. I'll have to concede that I need dedicated set of brass for the Rainier barrel. * Doing all the test the past two days, got me confused and my stupidity killed my Dillon sizing die. I twisted a stuck case in the wrong direction (mental black-out). Now I'm down to my Redding. Whew! I need to contact Dillon for a replacement of the twisted decapping stem. ** Note that Dillon's instruction would have you twist back about 1/4-1/2 turn after hitting the cam, while Lee's has it the other way around. >>> Am I on the right direction?

My current set-up : LEE Single-Stage PRESS with #10 redding shell plate. Lee #4 on back-up. - Full-Length Sizing Die : Redding -- I used to use Dillon, but now its now on back-up role. Also still have Lee Full length die. - Bullet Setting Die : Dillon I'm oConus. My gunsmith never did made any headspacing, as both my Rainier barrel and Daniel Defense BCG are both new.