biglou13
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Posts posted by biglou13
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I have made the transition to da/sa , coming from a tuned 1911, I'm but I'm now getting more frequent sub .2 and sub .24 all day long A zone hits from sights on target D/A
i did do an unreasonable amount of dry fire so much that i got her in june and her trigger return spring just broke
ive incorporated the the prep the trigger meaning start the trigger movement once pointed down range, along with beep/pull. study the different theories on D/A (then forget)
the d/a will bring out many faults in your technique....... it will make you return to fundamentals..... for me my first big break through was when I started working grip
* mindless dry fire---- i dry fired when i woke up, before i went to bed, while watching netflix just to get the muscle memory and and finger strength, so much my finger was getting tender and raw from the HOOK (the stock recurve trigger) this is about strength and muscle memory
*dry fire in dark room- i still have night sights on her for now , but in a dark room focusing on sights dry fire keeping sights as still as possible
*dry fire with timer- dark room, daylight with par timer shooting under pressure really starts to get your skills improving.
* dry fire doubles single action first then double action----- this gives you idea of but back wards again building muscle memory/ neuro pathways. do same with par timer. do some without timer
* dry fire doubles double action, dry fire triples d/a
* see exercise one
* i slowly started changing parts/modifications.... first hammer spring weights ( get the whole set) along with, the whole firing pin set up, FPB spring. (i have SP-01) keep all springs, dont use the 8.5 switch between the 13 and 11.5
*more dry fire
* then i changed the trigger to 85c. i cant explain but it changes things. start with stock if you platform has it....
* more dry fire
* just this week changed (broken) to RP-TRP, polish job, and decocker comp. hammer, while hammer is more S/A it still helps D/A
OMG. what a difference. its now BUTTER. don't do this step right away its good to get stronger on lesser gun/ trigger system
* change up Hammer springs (i now tend to dryfire with heavier hammer spring and shoot with 11.5#)... rinse lather repeat
I also have a list of live fire exercises for "fear and loathing the da/sa"
it wont take you all winter
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Push test for max over all legnth?
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Who said anything about modifying the frame?
Biglou13 said he rounded off the back of the frame. Pretty sure that would be not production compliant.
see professor's post http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=191773third post down... its not a visible mod. but i never considered if its a rule violation..... back of slide..... its same spot as firing pin stop on 1911..... im going to have check the rule books
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I agree you'll be able to tell the difference handling all three guns, in a showroom
in a pressure situation like shooting with timer, probably not be able to distinguish differences, unless your a pro shooter,
i'd like to test bill drill from sights on target, trigger prepped, and see if time and or accuracy improve.
This list is from automatic accuracy. I'm pretty sure the other "custom" guns would be pretty close to list.
- CZ 75 SP-01 Shadow w/3 magazines
- Race trigger job with CZ Custom competition hammer, 13 mainspring, internal work and polishing, shortened trigger reset, 6.5# DA, 2# SA
- CZ Custom short reset trigger system installed
- CZ Custom extended firing pin and factory reduced power firing pin spring
- Reliability package - polished ramp, breechface, cartridge rail, and a cut slide stop
- Your choice of front and fixed rear sights - CZ Custom fiber, Dawson fiber, Plain black, CZ Custom fixed competition or tactical rear sight
- Your choice of grips - VZ's, CZ Aluminums, CZ Custom Aluminums, etc...
- Your choice of safeties - Wide, medium, or thin
- Your choice of triggers - Black SP-01, 75B, 85 Combat new or old, etc....
- Shipped to your dealer
im just uber satisfied with my gun and modification, the only thing that would make me step up would be accu bushing.
So what route would you rather go since there are so many shadow options.
Plain stock sp-01 shadow with no wait time.
New mainspring
New recoil spring
Extended firing pin with lighter spring
Or just go with an accu and wait the 7-8 weeks and spend another $600 but everything is done and groups are theoretically cut in half?(since moding a stock sp-01 was not a choice)
my advice is get stock shadow....find a decent reload.... shoot the mess out of it..... get a timer shoot some more.....tune springs to reload and shooting style.........shoot some more...... DIY polish internals..... shoot some more....now decide on what you want more out of platform
my opinion is once you learn how to shoot it, or take the time to learn how to shoot it... you won't want or need the whole package.. and you could DIY the rest to truly have a custom gun.
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im planing my next buy/build (already own a tactical)
after my lasts mods im confident i can DIY mod a stock sp-01 better than shadow
sp-o1 tactical with:
diy----hammer spring, firing pin/spring, fring pin retaining spring, reduced fring pin block spring, production legal hammer, 85 c trigger, f/o sight kit, reduced trigger return spring, 12 # recoil, and a polish job, thin al grips or other grips, stainless grip screws...
IMHO any day over buying a shadow!!!!
unless your a competitive bullseye shooter the sp-01 out of box is more than accurate enough
seeking shadow owners in north florida fro side by side tests
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+1 for trigger return spring just changed mine
they are a bit short throated and tight so they can be a bit finicky on what you feed it.....
its pretty dang nice out of box..... but can easily be turned into rock star with some DIY polishing and aftermarket parts....
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+1 for greg cote super fast shipping
he should have both stock and mec gars in stock
i made the mistake of buying 19's ill need to get not +2 bottoms
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ps yoteru
welcome to the board.
Don't be shy if you have any questions along the way please ask.
i used to live in the people republik of kalifonia.
in your research the safety model sku 01152 (low capacity) will have firing pin block, firing pin block spring, you'll find lots of opinions regarding.
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At risk of sounding like a wise a$$. Which is not the intent.....
Look at the governing body rule book. I've been referring to the IDPA and USPSA. Rule books which are easily found on line.
I'm currently working on my tactical not shadow. Not sure what you mean by standard. Either decocker or safety version...l
The double action package
Reduced weight .Hammer spring , extended lightweight firing pin, reduced weight FPB block spring and new firing pin spring.
I'm pretty sure is all "production legal".
Rounded off back of frame where it contacts hammer. And initial upper polish job ..... All production legal as far as I know....
Im switching out 85c trigger without viisble set screw.......
There is a production legal hammer available from CGW and I'm sure cZC. But is a "secret menu" item available,by phone @cgw
If you read the CGW web site there is a lot of info on "production" legal. When in doubt I'll ask here then speak with Dave at CGW before ordering.
I do recall ... Along the lines of. You cannot disable safety.... You can use stock parts from other production guns.
I'm sure I'll get flamed here but before working on reset, REach reduction, disco, fpb vs no fpb......take up .....shoot the mess out of it. Shoot it with a timer ..... Then decide. I'm not saying that stuff isnt cool just not abloutley necessary.
http://www.uspsa.org/document_library/rules/2014/Feb%202014%20Handgun%20Rules.pdf
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Spoke with Dave at CGW. He returned my call after (walk of shame)....trip to LGS. He stated that (loosely). It is known to happen and there is a learning curve...... The slave pin is specifically manufactured with softer metal as to not damage other gun parts......he agreed that there is upward pressure from disconnector and you need to apply pressure to sear cage while drifting /installing pins. his suggestion was to make sure all Is aligned and continue to to drift pin with more pressure. He didn't come right out and say it but trip to LGS was prolly over kill .... Wack it harder.....
I'm having LGS do minimum amount of work.... I had extra slave pin. And I will re approach upgrades with more patience
I the regular sources did not cover this.
sear pin pin is chamfered so it should be installed and removed right to left
There is "secret" release in addition to spring move. On right side decocker/ tactical . Small flat head screwdriver depresses release, I ended up prying upwards with business card has frame protection... Another spot where three hands would be good. It's on the parts diagram my hard head didn't comprhhend.
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sear cage is still intact all parts
in retrospect there is a bit o wiggle on sear cage. i may not have had it aligned......
i'm going to LGS to be safe
thanks for the advice
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i was in process of working on lower
to replace broken trigger return spring, do some polishing
and a few other cgw goodies
i got as far as........
i was able to drive out sear pin (i think) part # 13
first with starter punch then regular punch then slave pin.
at a certain point slave pin moved easily
now slave pin is proud on left side
i tried tapping slave pin back, no love
sear cage can not be removed
i tried driving it through, no love
i tried replacing sear pin, no love
i tried driving slave pin back left to right no love
i looked at with magnification and it appears i'm starting to stake the pin
yes ive stopped hammering
waiting to meet with more mechanically inclined friend tommorow
i really don't want to do the walk of shame to a smith if i can even find one.......
whats a smith going to do to it?
whats my next step?
my sp-01 is pieces and is sad
please help
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im glad i ordered 2.... now maybe thinking should have got more
Are you using the CGW part RP-TRS ?
How much longer did it last than stock ? Im trying to get a shot count before i need to change. or how often do you change
My stock trs only lasted 3 months, but with A LOT of dry fire. loose estimate 6-7K trigger cycles including range time.
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Mine was stock
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bruceg.... i thought if you dropped the DA you needed extended light weight firing pin , light firing pin spring...for reliability due the lowered hammer power hammer/main spring???
does shadow have recurve trigger or the 85
i imagine since there is no lifter FPB the reset is shorter
justinmac13... im glad you are doing some work yourself.... i'd like to one day test my DIY tactical against a shadow. make sure to get a extra trigger return spring ( dont ask why) ... im interested to see what you change on the shadow.
im going on the record... i really dont think it is necessary to worry about SA pre travel, i think any issues can be fixed with training....
i've got a part deux coming from cgw now.
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Mine just broke. Like many others have said it would. (yes I have been doing a lot of dry fire)
If it's a known issue/ weakness. Why didn't cz just man up and upgrade the spring at mfgr level?
Don't get me wrong I love my cz and am considering another.
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Lowered weight hammer spring? ( lighter DA)Shadow:
- No FPB
- Extended mag release
- Better sights
- Bigger/Extended safety
- Upgraded hammer for a nicer trigger
- Polished trigger components
- Comes with 3 mags instead of 2
You get quite a bit more with the Shadow over a standard SP-01.
Extended lightweight firing pin, with lighter firing pin spring?
Are extended safety / decocker avaliable aftermarket?
do they replace part # 14 with. A spacer?
Do they leave out the fpb, or just deactivate lifter?
Do they change disco..?
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If you did the work your self. With after market parts and DIY polish job. = spo1
Or you bought it from the shop.= shadow
Could you tell the difference in a real world test.??? ..... Not finger bangin in the living room, with a micrometer.... .???
I'm also told on shop guns. The barrel is reamed so it eats reloads better and recoil springed for softer loads.... I'm sure they replace the stock trigger return spring.....but haven't got confirmation yet...
Does shadow get a SS guide rod?
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Alliant Promo. $100/8lbs and I run 147 coated over 2.8 out of a G34 (OAL depends on the particular bullet, but I load long). Makes 900 fps.
Where you finding promo... First time I've heard ...put price is right.....
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welcome from north florida !!!!
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ive loaded for precision long range and it borders on bench rest practices....
thing is MOA minute of angle and minute of A zone are two entirely different things
i was able to find Minute of A zone accuracy pretty quick without a whole lot of bullet jump testing. approx .018 off the lands
i imagine i may revisit but right now i have too many other skills that need work...
then you may want to ladder test powder again after finding jump......
2.5" @ 25 yards...... i'd be done testing !!!!!!!!
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answer to op.... ( caution i'm a newb)
no real downside that i'm aware of
some GM shoot one eyed. some taped some chapsticked, some both eyes open
i think i'm faster with both eyes open....
for me.... occasionally squint is enough, no tape no chapstick necessary....
i think with more practice, visual exercises, i may eventually give up the squint
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here is a good article
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mike good luck
i was having issues recently saw otpto., armed with much of research... she already knew and had already rx similar for her brother LEO. right lens for near vision left for distance .... i was surprised she was in the know....
long story made short i ended up with contact lenses.... which i'm shooting well with.... i disliked the progressive lenses and were horrible for shooting
Accu Shadow OAL
in CZ
Posted
i tend to throw out the extreme spreads when testing small sample size.
then when you are close use dry erase marker on bullet and a tiny bit of crimp if you really want to get technical
What bullet?