fastshooter03
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Posts posted by fastshooter03
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No, worst case is the rifle buffer bottoms out hard in the end of the tube, but that is why there is a polymer tip on the buffer. Worst case long term is wear on the bolt stop or its roll pin breaks, or buffer pad gets beat up. All are replaceable. Highly unlikely (if it won't even lock back all the time) that it will hit hard enough using the carbine spring to beat stuff up. Ejected brass position will tell you if its running too hard.
What he said. As long as you have a rifle buffer in a rifle tube your fine.
I've cut springs down to a couple of inches sticking out the buffer tube for my subsonic 300 blk and it cycles, feeds, and closes reliably.
Nick
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I'm assuming what you have for buffer and bca is "stock" and not lightened in any way.
Do you have extra springs? You shouldn't need the full power of a normal rifle length spring.
Try putting a carbine length spring in place of the rifle length spring--just the spring of course.....
Also make sure nothing is loose like your gas block or no broken carrier key screws(less common).
Standard springs are pretty cheap in multipacks from Brownells.
You can try experimenting with different spring lengths by cutting them down in 1" increments.
You probably want to keep the BCA dirty while you do this.
I usually run the Wolff reduced power spring in my setups.
Nick
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Very interesting thread.
I too have had this happen twice with my jewel setup and handing the rifle over to someone else. Never doubles in my hands.
I think some people just have a different squeeze/pull/grip whatever that causes a proper functioning trigger to double.
When the last time occured last year the guy said "COOL" and I said "NOT COOL, That's a very expensive rifle and it's not your's!"
I'm not familiar with the workings of some of the triggers listed but from what I've seen the shorter the pull and reset, the more it might malfunction with a certain type of squeeze/pull/whatever.
I don't use them, but that might be why people like the ar-gold type trigger that is designed to be safer IIRC.
Nick
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Ok now what's your buffer system?
Nick
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What powder, charge weight, bullet, etc?
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What's the ammo?
If you're using a slow burning powder that is lightly loaded it can feel slow.
Nick
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Anyone know if cold weather will affect reliability on 16"-17" rifle gas ARs?
I think that would affect the type of lube you use which of course may slow things down a bit.
I've never looked into cold weather lubes. Not brave enough to try and get stuck downrange and fight the frigid temps here in WI.
I'm using fireclean and/or some racing oil with assembly lube added. Straight assembly lube on CH.
Nick
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I did a search and came up empty which baffles me since I know it has been asked but here goes.
Have an old 20hbar 1/9 that I want to cut down to 18 or preferably 17 inches and still keep the rifle length gas system.
Anyone try? YES
What were the problems? NONE
Was finding out a buffer and spring combo a pain? NO
What the hell is dwell time? Don't Worry bout it
Can a gas port be enlarged enough and regulated with a adjustable gas block to run reliably? YES
Am I making an ass of myself? NOT YET
Thanks Brothers.
Mike.
Any more ??? let me know.
The barrel I cut back to 16" was an Olympic Arms ultramatch 20 or 24". Did not touch the gas port. Don't remember what size.
Guy wanted it cut back since it wasn't shooting for u know what and needed a 3-gun barrel.
He put on an adjustable gas block and had to dial it up and down when he used his reloads and wolf ammo. Wolf ammo he used was really weak.
The accuracy improved a lot from the original length.
Sometimes the worst part of a barrel is the muzzle due to poor manufacturing.
Nick
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Just cut it down to whatever you want.
Whoever is doing the work should be able to open up the gas port if it doesn't cycle how you like.
I've gone down to 16" without issues. Depends on your ammo, barrel gas port, and the bore.
Nick
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Currently.....all reloads.
Up to 100 yds= 62 fmj PP junk. Had problems w 55 NBTs and 55 V-max blowing up downrange on one of my barrels.
Beyond 100 yds= 70 berger VLD.
May change as availability changes.
Previous loads included 69 smk and 69 nos cc.
Other test loads are 68 and 75 horn hpbts. They did well but not my bullets.
Nick
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Can you pick out the original?
Of course you can!
No need to reinvent the wheel here.
Just buy the JP spring kit and go to town!
I'll get around to seeing if the 1911 springs are a viable option one of these days.
Nick
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I have a few of the PT frames on STI slides fitted and ready to be machined. They were very close in rail dimensions if not the same.
The STI slides were not all the same at all. Good inspection of what you have before trying to fit is a must!
I see FreedomGunWorks has their own frames now too?
I put one of the PT frames on my TS 2011 22LR coversion and it's been working fine as long as it's not at a Steel Challenge.
Seems the swinging motion doesn't agree with my kit. Nothing wrong with the frame-maybe the conv slide is too tight on the barrel?
Not sure if it's any better than a STI frames but it is slightly less expensive.
I use STI slides because that's what Brownells carries.
Nick
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Well:
I love my Glock but also like the 2011. I can run my Glock just as fast as the guys running their STIs at the local matches. That being said, if I did have some extra money I wouldn't mind having a STI. But if I can run a Glock just as fast (now this is just my situation) I cannot justify spending $2500 on a handgun.
The OP can vouch on the statement of running the Glock as fast as the STIs.
Adam
I can miss much faster with my Glock than my 2011 so it's got that going for it!
Nick
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That sucks that Dillon hasn't fixed this problem yet.
Now I have 4 - 650's and a few years ago I went through the same problem with the first one after dealing with it for years and I decided to act.
Being a precision machinist I took the time and measured the shellplates and dieheads to see how close they were in terms of lining up the die directly over the case.
I even put an indicator on the dies in the press to see how much movement was possible.
What I found out was the dieheads varied a LOT but the shellplates were pretty much all the same. The dieheads did not have the same Bolt Hole Circle dimension as the shellplate.
The diehead thread holes were centered inward compared to the shellplate. That's why the threads are oversize so you can move the die around.
Using the instructions of running a case up into a loose die then tightening at the very best(furthest outward) die position allowed me to get to the shellplate BHC dim but that was it.
No allowance for debri in the shellplate or maybe a diehead slot cut that might not be perfect(don't get me started on that).
The main problem always seems to be in station 1 where you're trying to get into the sizing die mouth.
So I made a batch of dieheads for myself that moved the die positions outward by just a little on all the stations and more on station 1.
That helped out a bunch and I thought it would be an easy mod for Dillon to make(and posted such)-just a couple numbers in a program but obviously it must not be enough of a problem for them to care about.
I do like the 650 now that everything problematic/annoying is modded up but I'm thinking the 1050 might have been a better choice in terms of accurate pistol loads.
My latest problem is the diehead slot cuts in my 650s are not perpendicular to the shellplate and the threads in my dieheads are not as loose as Dillon's so the die angle can't be changed.
Just a quick measurement with the calipers from the top of my diehead(which is parallel to the top of the slot step cut) to the shellplate gets me .007-.013" difference(depends on press) between station 2 and 4.
I think I'm gonna have to recut my dieheads to be a little looser in the slot and have a matching taper. Shimming the shellplate holder just isn't going to work according to my Dad who tried.
I wouldn't hesitate to get another 650 if the price was right--you just have to know how to maximize their performance.
Good luck!
Nick
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Do you find that it reduces wear on the body of the cam pin or this that about the same as a normal cam pin.
I have been wondering about these for awhile but didn't get any response from POF when I wanted to know how much for an upgrade package for my POF.
Nick
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Electric motor?
Why not hook it up to an exercise bike.....then have your wife or girlfriend take over
Nick
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You have to be slow when the powder starts coming out of the bar which is partway through the stroke.
Waiting at full stroke won't do anything unless you want to strap a vibrator on.....it...
Nick
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Sounds good to me. Bigger hole with adjustable block would prob save a bunch of headaches for some people.
Nick
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IIRC Criterion barrels are match grade lapped barrels.
Sometimes that type of rifling just won't have enough port pressure with less than .100" diameter.
I had to open my Broughten 5C AR barrels up to number 38(.1015) or 36(.1065) drill. Can't remember right now.
Nick
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To the guys that are running these hand guards. What uppers are you running? Did it fit well with a standard upper? I see that Seekins makes the IRMT 3 upper that matches with this guard. What advantages does this IRMT 3 upper have? Is it worth the extra money? I would love to hear what uppers you guys are using and maybe some pictures. Thanks for any info.
From what I have seen in pictures that upper uses a similar barrel attachment method as the uppers that I make which strengthens the front end of the receiver over a standard upper since the threads are internal.
Nick
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7075 costs twice as much as 6061.
It is stronger than 6061 in bar form.
According to McMaster: 6061 yield strength 35,000 7075 yield strength 56,000
Nick
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I run two sizing dies when I process brass.
Sometimes fired brass doesn't like to size all the same-some have more springback.
Nick
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Yes-PP bullets are for SHORT RANGE ONLY! 100 yds max
Nick
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I notice that the oal will shrink by as much as .005" as the motor heats up.
You can add an O-ring under the nut to keep it from loosening.
Use a good lube like Royal.
NIck
17 or 18 barrels with rifle length gas systems.
in Rifle - Technical
Posted · Edited by fastshooter03
Normally brass is thrown at your 4-5 o'clock when all your springs and stuff are not worn.
When you have too much pressure acting on the BCA and it can't compensate the brass is thrown at your 1-3 o'clock.
I'm thinking the speed of the overpressure BCA doesn't allow the spent brass to exit quickly enough before it hits the brass deflector/ejection port on the upper and goes forward.
Nick