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fastshooter03

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Posts posted by fastshooter03

  1. Yes, I had the same issues with the uncapped pst.

    I went so far as to grind the teeth off but then the newer models started coming out as well as the razors and I TRY to use capped now.

    I ran out of time coming up w a short/light upper for the 2015 Blue Ridge and stuck with the upper I used at the 2015 FNH which had an unmodified pst ffp.

    It bit me on the tobacco barn stage. I was injured and couldn't use the wall so I had to run around. Got up there and could only hit the first 3 LR plates.

    Got done and noticed the windage was turned 10 clicks even though it was away from my body. That was the only stage I had issues with that but that's all it takes...

    Nick

  2. Sorry I don't know the market availability these days but in years past you could not get a STI frame without the plastic grip.

    So for the people saying just get a STI that is why we don't want to...unless STI is now selling just the metal?

    I was going to make a batch of frames just for that reason but PT started selling them and it was cheaper and much faster for me to go that route than to make a prototype run.

    As far as quality goes the PT group that I bought was very consistent compared to STI's I've had to deal with. I have not used the CK so can't comment on those.

    If anyone really needs a PT frame I think I have 2 left untouched, 3 fitted w 6" sti 40 cal slides, and 1 fitted w 6" sti 38 sup slide.

    Not sure how long it would take for my dealer to get them out though...he's pretty busy right now!

    Nick

  3. Sure putting threads on is simple...making them good is another matter.

    If you have access to a lathe, first make sure you have a good barrel by indicating the OD and ID to see if they are concentric at both the chamber and muzzle.

    I've seen a few now from very well known manufacturers that had a good chamber end but bad muzzle. Basically the bore's going one way and the OD another.....

    It's REALLY important to get the thread perpendicular and concentric to the bore. I don't recommend starting with a die if you don't have to.

    I would also have the mating piece in hand so you don't take the threads too deep and never force the comp on or it might gall the threads.

    Nick

  4. Thank You Benelli for the 3Gun M2 off the PRO Open table. Now I can afford to use a Benelli!.

    Thank You all other sponsors.

    Thanks Brownells and Rockcastle for putting on the match.

    Thanks RO's , Staff, etc for running the match.

    My Rant has to do with target presentation. PRO Stage 6 was a killer for the first squad that shot it(yes our squad), especially the first half of the squad.

    We basically cleared the crap in the way for the next squad and so on and so on until I'm sure squads could hit most of the plates from anywhere.

    PRO Stage 7 and 8 Bays. In the morning half the plates are in the sun and the back plates are not. Shoot a little bit and the smoke clouds the plates and they blend into the berm even w clear lenses.

    I would suggest cutting down some trees behind the berms to allow sunlight in and maybe a little more wind.

    I am grateful to have the opportunity to shoot any match. I am just saying it would be more enjoyable for everyone if the target presentation was a little more equal.

    Nick

  5. I've seen a broken Jard disconnector but it was not mine and I still use them.

    I've broken a Jewel hammer and I still use them. Wish they would make the hammer corner radii larger to handle stress better.

    I've seen and had Timneys fail(out of adjustment) during a match. Will never buy from them again after talking to them at a SHOT show a number of years ago.

    I've tried the AR-Gold and it works OK but I couldn't double tap it and I didn't like the wobbley trigger. I don't use them.

    I won a Hyperfire 24C. I put it in a 22-ar conversion cuz it couldn't compete with the Jard or Jewel.

    I've played with CMCs at a SHOT show. Couldn't compete with the Jard or Jewel.

    Never seen or heard of Velocity.

    I wouldn't hesitate to try the Elfman. I wouldn't count them out just because of a few bad parts. Especially if they will do whatever to make it right.

    Just my .02

    Nick

  6. I like using a faster clean burning powder for short range loads(under 100yds).

    1x8 twist gets 62 PP cheapo crap bullets with benchmark.

    1x12 twist gets 50- 52-53 grn with same powder.

    Long range loads(100yds or more) get 60 vmax, 60 NBT, 69 mkg, 70 berger, etc....aiming for max velocity and accuracy.

    ACCURACY is the most important for long range.

    Nick

  7. This just in, new BCG on the way. They said the bolt bore was a little large. I will post a function test.

    I purchased gage pins .500 up to .505" to check bolt carrier bores after some problems with a older Young Mfg was causing issues and that was it....

    A folded over gas ring is not fun to deal with...imagine trying to pry out a BCG that will not open fully :surprise:

    Nick

  8. WE started using 9x23 after our first open gun was 38super.

    they didn't have rimless super back then otherwise things may have been different.

    I have both 9 and 9x23 open guns and I prefer the 9x23.

    No holes just screw-on comps shorty style.

    Lately I've been using 3n38...

    Nick

  9. I bought 2-140s and 1-170 to use in 9mm.

    Got 23 and 24 and 29rds using my springs and followers with their bases. Was going to make my own bases but decided to support MBX by buying theirs.

    Just glad to have more options when I need 2011 type mags.

    My hats off to MBX.

    Used the 140s this past weekend in a brand new 5" 9mm 2011 build.

    Didn't have any issues.

    Can't comment on MBX's spring or follower.

    I don't shoot 40 enough to justify getting some in that caliber to try.

    Nick

  10. IT all depends on how consistent you want your ammo to be....

    If you don't care, trim it back until u never get one that is too long after sizing.

    If you do care, size-trim-size. I have one head setup with a sizing die, Dillon trimmer, sizing die.

    Just pull the handle and evacuate the brass trimmings.

    Don't forget to clean the dies to get out all the crap that accumulates.

    The second size helps makes the brass have a more consistent headspace since every brass pc doesn't act the same.

    You will also need to chamfer at least the mouth ID.

    There is no quick way to make really good rifle ammo.

    Nick

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