ipscjoe
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Posts posted by ipscjoe
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9 pound
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Yes I am but the round never touched it every time it stopped. Was wedged between the disconnector rail and the back of the hood. Round was being pushed from the mag and jumped up and stopped on the back of the hood.
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38 SC Mg 124 hp's 1364 fps. Never plunked a bullet in my life. Doesn't that measure the max oal to the ojive? Not sure why that would make a difference if the round never even chambers.
I am going to try 1.235 and if that doesn't work in going back to round nose bullets. Most likely mg 124 fmj's
Yes my rn 145'd still work and have always worked. That's why this is so frustrating. They are 1.245
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Not the last round. Loaded like 10 rounds or more at a time but never the last. I have no idea why people like these hollow points. And I bought a dang case too.
Refuse to bend the lips on magazines that have worked perfectly until I changed bullets. Think if I can't get these to work I'll sell them and buy round nose fmj's. Would rather clean a little lead out my comp (I shot bare lead for years ) than fight jams.
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If your Allen wrench has rounded edges shorten it on a grinder or sander so that way it will have maximum contact. And not round worse.
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Wanted to ask here to see what people. Pretty sure I know what to do but wanted to ask.
I decided to try 124 mg's and autocomp (gun groups great with my load) I've shot thousands and thousands of 145grain lead round nose bullets through my gun and magazines with no issues what so ever and I tried multiple mags so I'm positive it's not that. It's not the extractor because all the stoppages the rim was no where near going under the hook. So it must be my length.
I was told that I would have to go shorter and was suggested 1.240. Admittedly I'm 1.240-1.241 Should I go shorter ? 1.235 or so? Most stoppages were nose up against the edge of the hood, but I had a single failure that stopped dead straight in the middle of the ramp. Any advice is appreciated.
Was raining.
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Just got a tray. I have the old one on another press. Only difference is that one has ribs cast in and the new one doesn't. Really wish they would have made the hole pattern match the bracket for the old tub (could have sandwiched it between and used both. Just because you don't use it for bullets doesn't mean it wouldn't be handy for tools etc.
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I've shot a lot of lead 145's major. Every time I got tumbling, I was pushing the bullet too fast. Readjusted my powder and it went away.
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Explain how that makes their parts better than the "in house" parts sti makes please? Didn't ask that question.It amazes me people bagging on sti parts quality and most use their frames and slides.
FYI,
CKArms manufactures their frames and slides in house along with a lot of other parts.
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You can either build a working gun or you can't. Please explain "attention". It amazes me people bagging on sti parts quality and most use their frames and slides. Check the front sight survey.Keep in mind the CK guns do not get the same attention to detail and hand fitting that Matt and Bobby's true custom guns get. That being said, I would still without a doubt go with the CK gun over the STI for reasons already mentioned.
If I were to spend money with EITHER company it better dang well work no matter how much attention is given. Otherwise it's just an expensive paperweight.
"Custom" doesn't always mean better.
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Has anyone been able to put a double alpha magnet on an ELS clip? I really want one just don't want to buy something if it won't work with my belt. Thanks.
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How old is your brass? Most of the pitting usually comes from reusing brass that should be retired.
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I bought 4 pounds of 231 last week and 3'pounds of clays myself.
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Dehydrator is best. Totally dry 20-30 min.
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Got my two 170's yesterday. Before loading I disassembled them and squeezed each coil several times working my way up the spring . Compared the one spring to the other and it had lost about a full coil's worth of length. Loaded it up and it took 30 right off the bat. Haven't shot them but I can tell it will work.
The second magazine not only would not hold 30 but wouldn't work at all. Got to looking at it and the top of the spring and follower were cocked off to the side (came that way). I tweaked everything straight and bam it held 30 and feeds just like the other one now. Will order some spare springs just in case. Another thing. If you can load #30 by hand you are a stronger man than me. Get an uplula.
Happy customer.
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Yes I've used the search function and yes I'm still confused.
A few months ago that article came out comparing autocomp to CFE pistol. From what I'm reading here, the loads aren't jiving.
For super comp brass with 124's guys are saying here they are using around 7.5 gr. or autocomp? And the article is saying 6.9 will be around 170 pf?
Everyone is saying basically you up your charge .2 tenths for CFE vs autocomp. That would mean 6.7 of autocomp would be around 170?
I'm running a 5 inch unported gun with a 9 chamber egw comp.
Super comp brass, 124 MG JHP's
Trying to get a starting point to work up to with autocomp to get to 170 PF
Sorry to ask this again but things aren't right here somehow.
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When I bought mine 20+ years ago they were right 1,050 dollars. Yes 1050, and went up from there.
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Funny how people come unglued for cosmetics and yet just accept guns that flat Dont work.
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Max Michelle uses one I believe.
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Can someone explain the frame width to me. I thought a standard STI was .830 wide and I'm seeing odd widths like 1 inch for sale?
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Are 80 bullets worth damaging your prized competition gun? Or potentially hurting yourself? Pitch em if you don't want to pull them. I've pitched more than that before. Not worth it.
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771's for everything
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Look at the back of the bottom lugs on the barell. If it is solid then it a Barstow cut. The W/N will have a cut all the way through the width of the link. I just had my bridge frame cut back so can use W/N barells. Couldn't get an original Barstow lugged barell to replace the worn out one.
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Feeding issue
in Open Pistols
Posted · Edited by ipscjoe
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