BoyGlock
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Posts posted by BoyGlock
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The readings are also affected by where you apply force along the handle
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5 hours ago, Ming the Merciless said:
Modify the cheapest part. Magazines are cheap, receivers are not.
Most logical Thank you
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There are none afaik. But all drills that involve handling the gun in presentation to target should help. Every time I grip the gun I consciously focus on my new grip until the day it comes subconscious. I also validate it in live fire frequently to be very sure its the right grip for the recoil management Im working for.
Fwiw, Im A class in ipsc Open at the moment. -
Another issue I wanted to resolve in the gun side is its preference for more rigid crimp area in the shotshell where it slides on the barrel ramp. Softer crimp edges usually deforms when it hit the ramp and result to misfeeds. This is less common in temperate countries and more in tropical ones such as mine, where the weather is warm enough to soften a less rigid crimp thereby causing the gun to jam intermittently. Tried to put shotshells in a cooler made it to jam less but not totally. Any thing can be done on the bolt/ramp area to solve this?
Didnt backread all 66 pages so this might have been taken up already.
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I was thinking of smoothing inside of magwell, remove burrs that could bind but was afraid might remove metal more than i intended and ruin the clearances w/ the mag and make the gun unreliable due to misfeeds.
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Using correct torque wrench in firearms is a skill in itself. Found it the hard way eons ago. Stay away from clickers.
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My ammo CL is 1.235” way below saami max.
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When i chamber gage my reloads that wont feed, the rims were a bit pronounced over the barrel hood. This could really prevent lock up in the lugs. I understand now the geometry of the round feeding at an angle and w/c wont seat flush w/ the barrel hood.
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It also says you have the option to turn it off
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13 minutes ago, Don_B said:
Just realized I wasn't very clear on that response. I had to file the sides on the mag bodies where they were dragging on the magwell.
Got it
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1 hour ago, Don_B said:
I also had to remove some metal on a couple of mine.
Thank you
will look into mine
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Micced 3 chambers in my open guns and heres what i found. All are from barrel hoods.
Schuemann hybrid: 0.910”KKM: 0.910”
STI: 0.902”
KKM and STI were made by same gs.
STI barrel is the one in the gun that fails to lock up about 2 in 100 rnds. Considering .38super is a straight walled cartridge, is .008” enough to cause OOB by 3/16-1/8”?
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1 minute ago, Don_B said:
You can remove the tab on back of the follower that locks the bolt back. Or you can shortening the tab so it does not apply as much pressure but this can be tricky getting the mag to drop but still lock the bolt back.
All my 8 ten rnder mags have the tab. But 2 dont drop free. Thinking it must be something else besides the tab.
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Do you guys have no trouble ejecting mags freely? If so how or what steps have been done in the magwell or mags to drop-free? Can I clean up the insides of the magwell?
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Unfortunately we dont have those restrictions in ipsc and my local level 1 matches abuse it w/ impunity just for the fun of making life difficult for shooters
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Have exactly the same set up and problem in my open gun in .38 super/comp. New uppers on old frame. All Ammo would chamber in my old uppers. But 2/100 will not in new uppers about 3/16”. I removed the extractor and still wont chamber same ammo. Removed slide and barrel and held the ammo by the extractor and it will chamber. Will send it back to my gs. Like the op Id rather fix it myself instead of sending it back.
If it was chambered short why would the problem ammo correctly gage in the chamber? Why would it chamber when out of the frame? Once, I forced it to chamber w/ a plastic mallet behind the slide. It chambered after a few not so light strikes. Forcibly ejected the round and found no binding marks on the ammo. You would think the chamber would form the brass, fed it again via the mag, again wont chamber completely.
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Maybe I should consider my trigger assy and hammer are AR’s not dedicated pcc9. Taccom bolts work w/ AR triggers as well. Does AR hammers strike fpins stronger than pcc9’s?
eta. I notice my taccom fpin strikes on Winchester primers are quite deep that a few were pieced. Normal? I guess fpins should not pierce primers otherwise the hot gasses that blow back to the breach may anneal the fpin tip that could cause it to break prematurely. Your opinions on this?
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6 hours ago, warpspeed said:
Any update?
Got to 800 and a taccom fpin arrived and put it in. Now I have a reserve.
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On 11/22/2020 at 3:17 AM, copterdrvr said:
It does feel significantly lighter.
I wont feel it I guess, such a very small part that weight difference by feel of the whole gun would be next to none.
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Finished fabricating firing pin in tool steel. And its working as it should. 300 rnds and counting...
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13 hours ago, MoRivera said:
Agreed, but again we're talking a system that was designed to have the rear of the bolt be pushed against while stationary (well, it rotates at first) by gasses, and then pulled away by the reciprocating carrier. In comparison in an AR9 with no separate bolt, there's no delay after striking and it's being moved back at a generally higher velocity. So I that respect it's under a higher degree of impact.
The reason why I look at it this way is that those of us with the CMMG Radial Delayed Blowback have noticed very premature extractor spring wear as they come stock and have had to replace with an extra-power spring. And that system is even more similar to an AR15's gas impingement except that it too is being forced back by recoil of the round, and from conversations and analyses it seems that has something to do with the forces that the spring is under as opposed to the original gas-piston/impingement action.
So perhaps the answer might somehow lie in making a smaller firing pin? Like one used in a pistol that doesn't have as much mass behind it when slamming forward and then immediately back, maybe use a transfer bar that somehow won't stay on the pin when the bolt recoils? That way less inertia stressing out that little tip area, I guess. Whatever the options may be, I think its the lack of delay in the blowback that's the key hurdle.
Quite logical. So it needs a make over in design in the pin and bolt area. Lighter moving part makes for less inertia to hammer itself to breakage.
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Youre very good!
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15 hours ago, MoRivera said:
Maybe more robust materials like tool steel or titanium?
Most of the oem and after markets are tool steel and taccom’s is said to be of higher grade stainless steel tougher than tool steel. But they break unusually easy. So next thing to look see is the design of the pin, and maybe the bolt itself?
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15 hours ago, MoRivera said:
I would think that the combination of bolt velocity and just the impact of the entire bolt being pushed back with a relatively floating pin puts the pin design under more stress than being in place and then pulled back like with an AR's gas impingement. And then maybe the small rotation of an AR's bolt may also contribute to easing things, I dunno. I've not broken one on my blowback AR9's but keep a spare in my bag, and I have seen it happen on someone's tuned PCC. Maybe more robust materials like tool steel or titanium?
Still its 9 minor so it should not be much to handle
Measuring Torque on Existing Bolts and Best Pro Torque Wrenches?
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
Correct. Pardon my faulty logic.