BoyGlock
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Posts posted by BoyGlock
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Can admin pls move this to Gun Springs? My mistake to post this here
Thank you
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37 minutes ago, yigal said:
A weaken leaf spring in 1911 behaves differently from a spiral spring
Im comparing springs of same type: 1911 sear leaf springs.
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Its not specific to this or that springs. As said, I use different brands across my Open 2011s and every one manifested the same anomaly. I was in belief that since these springs are used for very calibrated pull on triggers they are at least consistently predictable on this aspect but Im wrong.
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Several times I set my trigger pull to about 2 lbs, a week after its over 5oz more in my trigger gage. Happens in my 2011s with varying brands and age of springs. After one or two resetting or retweaks, it stays put.
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I dont do it when in practice but usually do in match runs. It distracts me just enough to lighten my focus and silence mental noise.
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Better if can Train to use the eye on same side as the hand being used. And, with two eyes open.
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“weaker spring lets more gas escape which requires heavier powder charges to cycle the gun.”
does this mean the more used the gun spring gets the heavier the loads it will need to shoot reliably?
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I use Arredondo base pad that has inner plastic inserts virtually extending the groove lower up to the pad. Its specced as for sti svi .38sup i think?
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The idpa length is not really short as in for-carry length. For me its just the right length for practical shooting. The longer ones make me push them with my palm unintentionally. My hand are smallish. I flip the 2011 grip to positively depress the button.
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On 9/1/2021 at 3:02 AM, Braxton1 said:
I would be VERY careful using anything but OEM in the Gen5. The hardness of the steel in a Gen5 Firing Pin is critical and needs to be harder than woodpecker lips, much more so than previous Gens.
Reason being is that the early Glock Firing Pins would retract during the recoil cycle and be held back by the Firing Pin Safety. That caused a bit of wear at the FP/FPS interface that would reach a certain point and stop. Glock engineers wanted to eliminate that wear so they kept the Firing Pin Safety depressed during the recoil stroke on the Gen5, which allowed the Firing Pin to float in its channel. Most of the time, the Firing Pin tip is still projecting out of the breechface when the feeding round's rim is sliding up the breechface and under the Extractor. The tip takes a heckuva sideways smack when that happens. If the metal is hard enough, no harm/no foul. If it is not, a small ding will develop on the underside of the Firing Pin's tip. This ding will eventually start to catch the rim and cause an intermittent (at first) feeding jam. It'll get worse until it just won't run at all.
Attached is a pic of an aftermarket Firing Pin tip that went south on me.... Just that tiny ding was enough to give 3-4 jams per USPSA stage.
Very valuable info here. Thank you
Cant the dings be dressed so it will be smooth enough to allow the rim of the shells to slid coming up to feed?
i have a 17/5 with stock parts but just curious for future reference.
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If springs and fpins dont work try checking the fpin channel for any roughness. Smoothen it with rolled sanding paper.
Years ago I had same problem with a used gun. Apparently the previous owners had the same problem with reliability w/c was not disclosed to me. Whatever spring and fpin combi I used did not solve the problem. Until I checked the fpin channel. I still have the gun and its my main match gun now. -
Those “minor problems” in micros are big problems in my side of the pond. I had some and could not just return malfunctioning units with replacements coming in short time or worse might not even be able to have them shipped and replaced due to postal restrictions. Per this experience, cmore sliderides/serendipities is still king.
You guys are lucky out there. Or maybe not? -
Micros are pricey and reliability is spotty, dot size is fixed and limited in options. Exact opposite of cmore serendipity/sliderides.
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2 minutes ago, AverageJoeShooting said:
i think the railway was (and possible still is) one of the best dots on the market. those things never failed, never had problems, never lost zero, and you could change the diodes out to whatever size dot you want, and the glass was super clear and easy to look through
This. Reliability is king in red dots. Nobody wants to lose a dot in the middle of a stage run. That is if one is serious enough.
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On 10/17/2021 at 10:41 AM, BoyGlock said:
Wondering why no mention of Shotmaxx 2 by Double Alpha in later posts. I had the Sm 1 and its still working for 3 yrs now and counting anf Ive given to my shooter-son, only the rubber strap broke but cannot be replaced so I improvised a strap from other wristwatches.
Im on Sm 2 now w/ no questions asked 3 yrs warranty. The things I like are the features that are very usefull to live and dry fire trainings like the Par times, splits, 3 and 5min. countdown timers for dfire, stopwatch to time movers in matches, records 10 Lfire strings for review later, buzzer vol adjustability for live fire while double plugged and late night df in the house, good battery, backlight, and a lot lot more, all in my wrist. Very handy, wearable in all shooting occasions and doesnt get in the way. Ive had belt clipped timers but most of the time they got dislodged when Im shooting in awkward positions and lots of running. If not dislodged the buttons are inadvertently pushed by my body part activating another start beep in the middle of a string/run, etc. Very annoying and inconvenient. AMG is not available to me so I cant compare it. Even then waiting for several weeks/mos. upon purchase is not for me. Maybe they are ok for ROing other shooters but the SM is also good if not better for its handiness sans a bluetooth connectivity.Think im gonna retract most of the positives about the shotmaxx2. After some time of daily use I can say its very unreliable. The features are great but at times they cannot be used properly due to malfunctioning button or not recording the times in case of live fire. Or both. Its quite a dissappointment considering the fine features it has that I like very much. They warranty the units but the replacement suffer the same fate. At least in my case.
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5 hours ago, SteelCityShooter said:
Yes, as a matter of fact. I just discovered a company named Anson that sells reasonably priced ratcheting dress and casual belts. They are available in 1-1/4" and 1-1/2" widths in a huge variety of colors in leather and webbing straps and with buckles in a range of metal colors and designs. I really like them as they let you set just the right tightness for the clothes you are wearing. Holes always seem too loose or too tight.
Can you use it in our games?
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I have not experienced that but I know such revos’ lockworks are very precise and a bit fragile that exerting force a bit more than normal could damage such lockworks. I would heed the advice above to clean and lube first and dont use exessive force on anything.
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1 hour ago, AHI said:
The inner belt DOES NOT have the ratchet on it.
Of course not. All im asking is how do u use the outer belt with ratchet and gears fixed to it thread thru the belt loops so I wont need any need for an inner belt. Some said above its possible for standard belts. Now I asked again do u use ratchet on std belts not to even consider we are talking about competition belts with ratchet? Just being sure Im not missing something here.
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So you use a ratchet buckle on a standard ordinary leather or whatever-not-a-comp belt? We are not talking exclusively idpa right? I still cant wrap my head around this or maybe Im so ignorant with my gear?
9 hours ago, AHI said:Old rule and current IDPA. You take everything off the belt as stated. As you put it on going through the belt loops . You put your mag holders, holster,etc on it.
The two part competition belt . The inner bet satisfies the going through the loop part. Outer belt holds all your crap . Two part belts are not allowed in IDPA.
The one that holds your pants up.
Eta. I have ratchets in all my gears. Hg, pcc, sg. But not on standard belts.
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2 minutes ago, Sarge said:
My guess is that would apply to a standard belt. As you thread the belt through the loops you slide stuff onto the belt.
I dont know what is Standard belt. Are we not talking sbout competition outer belts? I thought its the common outer belt that it could be fitted with ratchet buckle? If so, its quite hard if not next to impossible to slide in/out gears. They are fit hard to the belt.
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How do you wear a belt thru belt loops w/ mag pouches and holster on it?
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My pcc in open is set up same
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On 11/4/2021 at 3:56 AM, RJH said:
I had no idea shooting matches with tape on the dot was this common. Wonder why I have never seen it in open? Is this just a carry ops thing and if so why?
I only shoot open. In my side of pond Im a rarity. And my tape on the lens is black electrical tape so not noticeable. And if the Shooters and ROs are not aware of it, it usually go unnoticed. Nothing special about it that merits others’ attention though.
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10 minutes ago, vluc said:
. Didn't work well for me, shots were going slightly left all the time.
I have astigmatism. I zero with tape on. And i shoot with the tape on all the time. Otherwise zero will be different with no tape.
1911 noob question- sear spring doesn't reach up to the sear
in 1911-style Pistols
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Have you installed the backstrap to hold it in place? If not yet, install the bs and it will press the spring from its bent shape and elongate it and reach the sear leg.