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No issues this weekend. Will continue to monitor.

I noticed the new sear spring had a dog leg while the OEM one did not. I noticed a brite spot on the dog leg but the spring felt free to move during assembly. I'll keep that in mind if the problem persists. I did not check the 2nd item you mentioned but will check it out on my next disassembly. My solution so far was to follow this procedure starting at "sear spring prep": https://feeds.brownells.com/userdocs/learn/bt002005.pdf For my existing 2lb 2oz trigger pull, i had close to 1lb 4 oz on the trigger return/disco alone. That leaves 14oz on the sear. I reduced my trigger return/disco to ~12 oz and put ~1 lb 6oz on the sear. Will report on performance after this weekend.

thats the plan if something else doesnt come up in here. Maybe go up to 2.5 lbs and see how it performs

Anyone have experience with aftermarket 1911 ignition kits in the DWX? I installed a AGW Perfect match and I am getting occasional hammer follow. Here are some details: kit installed and set to ~2 lbs 2 oz Trigger return spring measures around ~1 lb before hitting the wall No issues at time of installation ~2000 rounds later - started getting hammer follow and catching at half cock Cleaned all trigger components and disco channel, lubricated. Estimated about 1 failure / 300~ rounds Ive watched the AGW videos on hammer follow and trigger adjustment. I feel there is plenty of tension on the disco/trigger leg of the spring. Trigger moves feely when there are no springs installed. Any thoughts on resolving this problem? Does the overall trigger weight vs the disco/trigger return weight seem reasonable (~2 lbs overall, ~1 lb trigger return?)

Anyone have the TS2 orange in 9mm in stock? @eerw czc showing out of stock, got some hiding in the back?

Have we figured out the estimated weight of the stock recoil spring?

You can anodize brass as well. More pricey, but more durable as well.

https://lokgrips.com/cz-gun-grips/cz-75/specialty/cz-shadow-2-thin-gridlok-aggressive-brass/ Pretty sure these fit the DWX.

Looks like a great candidate for a dye penetrant test. Most fab shops or some machine shops probably have it on hand if you have any connections to one.

looks like you got your answer, but I remember mine going on with hand pressure only. Also, just a heads up, the factory mag bases wont work with that mag well. It might seem like they are seating, but the gun wont strip rounds.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/XuAygt5VnP5yFaRJ8 Wicked Arms in Baton Rouge, LA. I'm local and my turnaround time was ~2 weeks. As you can see, it isnt even close to the ejection port. I have a photo of an SRO on this cut and the SRO "hood" is about flush with the ejection port. There is about an 1/8" from the back of the cut to the firing pin retaining block. This could be further minimized to get the optic further back.

I got my DWX in January. Has a 1911 thread pitch.

https://lokgrips.com/hardware/t20-torx-grip-screws-for-dwx-with-lok-grips/?fbclid=PAAabGf4-sMtGvNs0ZVBIIZjrYGuXMBeDo8TaYmZBblLYWCdzzUPzyi83J_T8 Fyi, torx 1911 screws specifically for dwx

I was referred to Wicked Arms and John by our local USPSA clubs. I wanted to get my DWX optics cut and was hesitant at first but after speaking with him and understanding that he knows his s#!t, I felt very comfortable going with his services. He did the optics cut quickly (~2 week lead time) and was very reasonably priced. He kept me in the loop the whole way and even sent some update pictures as he progressed. I would definitely use him again for an optics cut. Regarding Glocks, I think he started off primarily doing custom Glocks then transitioned into CZ's and other types of machining.

I dont have an answer for you, but I will tell you these (or compatible) screws are cheap from grainger: Flat head screws spec their length from the top of the whole fastener, so you could remove your slide and take a rough measurement from the outside surface of your optic mounting plate to the inside of your frame. That would give you the longest it could possibly be.

I installed the Atlas Gunworks perfect match (which is basically the EGW kit), and did notice the missing finger. Installed the new spring and did not have any function issues on the sear/hammer.

I had the same issue with my stock DWX basepads and the LOK Gridlok mag well. Henning mag bases worked well and ended up modifying some factory plastic basepads to fit. Some details in my post history in this thread if youre interested.

Fun one on Sunday: Mid stage, had my firing pin stop (FPS) fall out and firing pin fly out of the gun. I was able to find both parts and they look fine. During reassembly noticed there is a lot of clearance between the FPS and the slide. Guessing this doesn't need to be a snug fit since the pin itself is keeping the FPS in place. These components are not modified, but the gun does have an AGW ignition kit and optics cut. Probably have ~1500 round count on the gun. Anyone else experience something similar in the past?

Just installed the agw perfect match. This is basically a matched egw set. Honestly, the hardest part is getting the safety off. Start with the left side and the safety needs to be between safe and fire. Just needs a steady pull but be careful not to lose the detent. If you're hesitant about the assembly and disassembly, take a lot of photos as you go.

That sure seems like what they mentioned on their IG.

If your original DWX screws fit in there, you are good to go. You can try threading them in 3~ turns and wiggle them around. I can't tell what is "acceptable" but there should be relatively little play. Try the same with the M3's and you will see how sloppy the fit is with the wrong screw. (Note, dont force in the M3s, they will work for a couple threads then likely get jammed).

Check out my post on reddit. https://old.reddit.com/r/CZFirearms/comments/13cxbw1/details_on_replacing_dwx_grips/ The good news is that the M3.5x0.5 screws you used are pretty close in thread pitch and slightly undersized so as long as you didn't strip the threads on the frame, they are probably still fine. Finally, Lok posted on their IG a while back that they are getting/making Torx, Countersunk, 0.150"-50 tpi screws specifically for the DWX.

I have the same set up on my DWX but in Aluminum. I have not noticed any pinching in that area at all. the width of the grip vs the mag well also has a mismatch, but I dont have massive bear hands that contact down there.

Anyone figure out the actual spec of the stainless on the slide? I'm in a very humid area and worry about rust on some of the lower chrome materials like 410 after my slide cut. Guessing it's a 17-4 if czc isn't refinishing

Does the compact slide work in the full size frame?