hack6500

i wonder if its the paint job in the trigger pin hole, compressing the roll pin too much... am I strange for thinking this?

> have fully assembled after adjustment? yes, this is also good advice, with the extra mass it does move things better >Is it hard to get the trigger pin in? no, it goes in without issue, when i started i would leave it installed in the frame while working and only after the 3-4h removal did it pop out and i realized using the punch as the pin everything working perfectly. my ah-ha moment! i put the new replacement back in my stash, took the original trigger roll pin to the vice and clamped down on it with medium-full force without deforming, reinstalled and within a few minutes had it working 10-20% of the time, if i continue to slim it down then polish I would bet it will work. i do think i am going to order a nice selection of replacement pins.. and a trip to my local hardware store.. still on this problem!

> Have you tried with the pre -travel and over-travel fully adjusted in? yes, the first install was dry (no locktite) and zero pre and over settings, knowing i would be reinstalling several times, had i known my 3/32 Lyman pin head punch would fit i would have tested with this more! > from the local hardware store I dug and found #301707 (#3.2) a brand new trigger pin, installed and same (or worse) its definitely the pin.. I wonder if a trip to the local small box screw section isnt great advice.. its always the way! will report back with results, thank you!

I have a out of box new2018 Limited Custom and my first SA witness. Installing the Henning flat trigger went as well as I could expect, however its not resetting properly. Otherwise functions as intended, generous pre and over travel seems adjusted properly after some basic tinkering My trigger-transfer-bar pin doesn't protrude and depressing the lifter is smooth, i do notice the transfer-bar sits further back on the lifter than a stock trigger, The included lifter spring appears properly installed and I might say that the trigger just feels like its being squeezed from the sides... While removing the factory trigger roll pin for 4th or 5th time it popped thru and i noticed my 3/32 punch allows the trigger to reset properly and i might add very effortlessly. With the punch installed everything works as intended and smoothly, very impressed, except the pin punch sticking out the side.. When I reinstall the original trigger roll pin it again does not reset properly. Still digging for a new roll pin, but would like to hear any ideas. I tried to compress it lightly without deforming and polished it lightly, without success. Thanks in advance, a great answer is likely on the end of phone call to Henning, but why bother the man if yall can help! good things take time!

> Why are they so hard to find? they are not made by tanfoglio, they are made by Negrini and thay are not cheap! try this one... there are a few others in the 135-145 range new. otherwise ebay https://www.amazon.com/Negrini-Cases-2018TS-4835-Pluck-n-Pull/dp/B008N7ZXC2/ref=sr_1_22?keywords=negrini+gun+cases&qid=1547867423&sr=8-22

while i won't disagree with anyone in particular; I dug out my login to suggest : DO NOTHING and not exactly nothing, but as others have suggested the front sight is the first big item to consider, my first Witness was the same way and I simply brightened and tightened up the front white dot and started shooting it. you should determine if its SMALL or LARGE frame for magazine compatibility mostly and invest wisely on magazines. most all new Witness are LARGE frame and do not offer CZ/Beretta small frame compatibility. Being older and 9mm i am willing to guess that is small frame, so swapping a new LARGE FRAME slide onto that frame isn't an option. if anything try out a few sets of grips to see what you like and change them, but factory witness like that is GOOD TO GO LIKE THAT. wait until you break a firing pin to replace it... i would save your moneies for the next Witness, as I have learned from experience you will want more.

position it securely so that you can roll the file across the curve paying close attention to where the teeth are working. be certain to draw the entire length of the file for each pass, and clean your file after each line. looks great so far, not looking to tell you how to do it, just giving a bit of support, YOU CAN Dooo IT! slow is steady, steady is true.

I recently bought a DAA PDR-II for my Stock III and sadly I was very disappointed. while the ball joint, mount and belt hanger were top notch, the actual kydex felt cheap and thin, especially compared to my other DAA (FRONTLINE) PDR suede lined holsters. I double checked that I ordered the Stock III option, and it arrived labeled as such, but it was ALSO labeled separately CZ SP01, it was 1/4" to short for the long slide (biggest issue), and had a round trigger guard (heat gun). I went with this Ghost Hybrid for much less and like it much more. The Ghost Hybrid is not without its drawbacks, it is not as adjustable, and them belt screws are quite jabby, but i still like it better.