bluevic443

Going in reverse here. Having to pack-up my 650 for our upcoming move. Been packing the reloading area and i'm amased how much stuff has been stored, stuffed, and packed in every corner of the little space I had. That does not iclude the 5 gal buckets of dirty brass in the shed. Nice part of reloading is i have plenty rounds loaded for the transition. Hope the movers don't charge per pound!!!!!

Yes, me too. Works perfect with all the pistol calibers i am loading. When i got into reloading. 223 I was having a hell of a time getting it set to where it would not go off or just churp when set, would take the case and weight the powder, perfect charge weight was dispenced. So I watched it as I cycled the press, this is what I found with mine: 1. The brass tip on the 223 size rod was not running true to the upper peice that trips the switch. This caused the brass tip to drag and give a false trip as it went into the case mouth. Much more clerance on pistol brass. 2. The brass tip is champfered and needs a greater transition from the tip to the sides. Will help the problem #1. Still want as much of a flat tip as posible so the tip does not become a speer and plunge into the powder at a radom depth. 3. I do not sort my processed brass by head stamp. So case volume is going to influance powder height in the case. Same problem with small pistol brass, just not outside the "V" groove adjustment. Solutions: Ideas that I have thought of but, have not tried because my lathe is in storage. 1. True the runout of the brass tip to the aluminum "V" block. The tip has to inter the case mouth as centered as possible and not drag on the sides. 2. Round the chamfer on the side only if needed after fix #1. 3. Make a new aluminun "V" block with a longer "V" groove that will fit the high low average of the mixed head stamp brass, but will still catch a gross powder error. Sense I can't fix the problem I took the powder check rod out and loaded on. Just weigh my charges more often. I like the added safety the powder check gives with pistol loads, and will have it on my rifle loads ASAP.

Invest in a chamber gage of your choise. I like the multi hole type (Faster). Drop test all reloads while watching tv. All issues caught at home and not on the line.

One word, "VOLUME"!!!! Home built mine. 10"dia pvc pipe 29" long. Can run 20lbs of brass, 25lbs of pins, two gallons of water, one cup of auto wash and wax, and two teaspoons of limashine. 1 1/2 hours spin and 30min labor to rinse it all. Will say switching to the auto wash and wax keeps the brass looking great. Would not recommend going bigger, a round cyclinder at over 65lb can be awkward to handle safely.

I case gauge every round I load. The gauge has caught high primers, upside down primers, partial case splits, full case splits, shaved jackets, rolled case mouths, non concentric seated bullets, and even burs around the rims due to extractors. I credit good reloading practices and case gauging to not having a single ammo related malfunction since I started reloading in the late 90's. The multi hole gauges do speed up the task.

I have found that a folded towel placed over the top will really quiet it down. Make sure that it does not interfere with the case drop area.

The 650 really shines with the case feeder. Cant imagine loading without it.

Same issue. Had .005" taken off the base of the die. Now i can get the brass below the max on the Dillon case gauge. Do not like the idea of "cam over".

The true cost will be feeding it!!!!! They have a voracious appetite.

Had the same issue. Could not get the last couple of thousandth of shoulder push back. Did the touch the shell plate and give it so much more as stated in the instructions. With no change in the max-min gauge. The rounds would function in my Bushmaster but would lock up two friends AR's and my dad's Smith&Wesson. Had a machine shop buddy take .005" off the bottom of the Dillon sizing die and now it just kisses the shell plate and the brass sits just bellow the max on the Dillon gauge. Wish i had him take .008". A plus, the machine runs smoother on the last bit of the up stoke. Now on the RT1200 i screw the die down until it stops on the sized brass and is snug, and run a second jam nut up from the bottom as the top nut does not have full thread engagement. Hope it helps.

I have been reloading 40's and nine's with nothing but TightGroup. Set the powder charge with a scale then set the powder checker for the middle of the V-grove. Will have a "chirp" from time to time, check it with the scale and it is right on. Think that comes from the different case volumes. Never had squib or a kaboom. Will not load without it by choice.