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best way to level my XTR in ny AR


Beretta Lover

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I have a burris PEPER 30mm mount for my XTR and other than eyeballing it (which Ive done successfully for years) is there an easier method to make sure my scope is level?

thanks

If you have buddy that owns a laser bore sighter. Cabelas has a little plastic sleeve with a level that goes over the laser, which creates a horizontal lazer line. Then simply line up your cross hair on that. It works really well.

After our XD/92FS swap, I still have those MecGar 18 rd mags I found burried in the back of the safe. If you want to buy those, I'd let you borrow my laser setup. I could just ship it along with the mags for you to use then just ship it back when your done settig up you scope.

Also curious if you have that 92 tricked out yet? Any pics?

Ed

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I mount my rifles in a vise and level the rifle. Across the basement from my vise is a string with a plumb bob hanging. Once I know the rifle is level. I adjust the scopes vertical crosshair or stadia line to be in line with the plumb line.

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Be carefull about leveling the XTR. Mine was alittle more than 1 1/2 degrees off from bottom flat of turret housing to retical vertical line :angry2:

I set the vertical line.....vertical.....and left the housing canted. FWIW.

Good advise. This is exactly why the level on the housing is unreliable. You have to align with the rifle level, and use the reticle to align. If you want it right.

Tod has probably described the best "Home Boy" method you requested.

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Be carefull about leveling the XTR. Mine was alittle more than 1 1/2 degrees off from bottom flat of turret housing to retical vertical line :angry2:

I set the vertical line.....vertical.....and left the housing canted. FWIW.

I realize that for the most part you will not be dialing adjustments much with the Burris reticle, however the only true solution to you problem is to get the scope fixed. As it sits you have a vertical reticle but canted adjustments, so if you ever choose to dial dope in the elevation turret it will incrementally add windage at a rate relative to the reticle cant.

The only way to level a scope is off the housing, that insures that my reticle and housing are in alignment and therefor the adjustments should correspond and be repeatable. If in that process I find my reticle canted the scope goes back until it is either fixed or the faulty product is replaced. I see no benefit in paying $600+ for a scope that's broken.

I understand your attempt to fix low budget manufacturing by hanging plumb bobs, singing songs, and only doing the mounting while the moon is full, but in the end you are just compensating for poor build quality.

Good advise. This is exactly why the level on the housing is unreliable. You have to align with the rifle level, and use the reticle to align. If you want it right.

Tod has probably described the best "Home Boy" method you requested.

Its not unreliable, it is 100% reliable for a scope that is manufactured correctly. You say for it if you want it to be right the reticle has to align with the rifle. What about the adjustments, if all three components are not in alignment IT IS NOT RIGHT!

My intent is not to call you guys out, but we pay a lot for our optics. Coming up with compensatory mechanisms to mount canted reticles only continues the problem. If we quit compensating for the manufacturers quality standards we will all benefit from better product.

Edited by smokshwn
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Be carefull about leveling the XTR. Mine was alittle more than 1 1/2 degrees off from bottom flat of turret housing to retical vertical line :angry2:

I set the vertical line.....vertical.....and left the housing canted. FWIW.

I realize that for the most part you will not be dialing adjustments much with the Burris reticle, however the only true solution to you problem is to get the scope fixed. As it sits you have a vertical reticle but canted adjustments, so if you ever choose to dial dope in the elevation turret it will incrementally add windage at a rate relative to the reticle cant.

The only way to level a scope is off the housing, that insures that my reticle and housing are in alignment and therefor the adjustments should correspond and be repeatable. If in that process I find my reticle canted the scope goes back until it is either fixed or the faulty product is replaced. I see no benefit in paying $600+ for a scope that's broken.

I understand your attempt to fix low budget manufacturing by hanging plumb bobs, singing songs, and only doing the mounting while the moon is full, but in the end you are just compensating for poor build quality.

Good advise. This is exactly why the level on the housing is unreliable. You have to align with the rifle level, and use the reticle to align. If you want it right.

Tod has probably described the best "Home Boy" method you requested.

Its not unreliable, it is 100% reliable for a scope that is manufactured correctly. You say for it if you want it to be right the reticle has to align with the rifle. What about the adjustments, if all three components are not in alignment IT IS NOT RIGHT!

My intent is not to call you guys out, but we pay a lot for our optics. Coming up with compensatory mechanisms to mount canted reticles only continues the problem. If we quit compensating for the manufacturers quality standards we will all benefit from better product.

In a perfect world.......

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Be carefull about leveling the XTR. Mine was alittle more than 1 1/2 degrees off from bottom flat of turret housing to retical vertical line :angry2:

I set the vertical line.....vertical.....and left the housing canted. FWIW.

I realize that for the most part you will not be dialing adjustments much with the Burris reticle, however the only true solution to you problem is to get the scope fixed. As it sits you have a vertical reticle but canted adjustments, so if you ever choose to dial dope in the elevation turret it will incrementally add windage at a rate relative to the reticle cant.

The only way to level a scope is off the housing, that insures that my reticle and housing are in alignment and therefor the adjustments should correspond and be repeatable. If in that process I find my reticle canted the scope goes back until it is either fixed or the faulty product is replaced. I see no benefit in paying $600+ for a scope that's broken.

I understand your attempt to fix low budget manufacturing by hanging plumb bobs, singing songs, and only doing the mounting while the moon is full, but in the end you are just compensating for poor build quality.

Good advise. This is exactly why the level on the housing is unreliable. You have to align with the rifle level, and use the reticle to align. If you want it right.

Tod has probably described the best "Home Boy" method you requested.

Its not unreliable, it is 100% reliable for a scope that is manufactured correctly. You say for it if you want it to be right the reticle has to align with the rifle. What about the adjustments, if all three components are not in alignment IT IS NOT RIGHT!

My intent is not to call you guys out, but we pay a lot for our optics. Coming up with compensatory mechanisms to mount canted reticles only continues the problem. If we quit compensating for the manufacturers quality standards we will all benefit from better product.

My scope HAS been back to the factory!!!! I will chaulk this up to buyer beware, and I agree it SUCKS to pay $600 + for something not up to my quality standards. Fool me once.....

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Slowsure,

Keep after em!

Catman

Well in my world my housing is level, my reticle is level, and my elevation/windage adjust vertical and horizontal not on diagonals....maybe for you that's too much....for me its a minimum so that I know the equipment is right and I can work on me where most of the problem lies.

Edited by smokshwn
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I have a burris PEPER 30mm mount for my XTR and other than eyeballing it (which Ive done successfully for years) is there an easier method to make sure my scope is level?

thanks

Im pretty sure that the XTR turrets and the reticle are not square to each other as you would expect.

my XTR has been to Burris for repairs twice, so Im not up for a 3rd try.

I will probably run a level line in the basement and then off the vice technique.

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Slowsure,

Keep after em!

Catman

Well in my world my housing is level, my reticle is level, and my elevation/windage adjust vertical and horizontal not on diagonals....maybe for you that's too much....for me its a minimum so that I know the equipment is right and I can work on me where most of the problem lies.

Admiting the problem is the first step. See you therapy. :roflol:

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