New Trigger Job

[Sixgun]

I have a STI that I built myself, and had a well known local gunsmith do the trigger job on. One year later my hammer now follows real bad.

I pulled my sear and hammer, and the sear nose is tweaked pretty good from the halfcock notch hitting it, and my hammer hooks are not square anymore (95* to 100* guesstament). This is using standard STI parts. I'm guessing that the heat treat wasn't up to snuff, and the parts just wore.

I have Dave Dawsons Super Group on order. That's a Koenig hammer, C & S low mass sear and disconnecter, 17# mainspring, and new sear spring.

Since I'm already going to do a new trigger job. Would it be worth it to go to the Tri-Glide trigger system with the titanium sear spring, strut and mainspring cap? I'm kinda worried that if you have titanium rubbing on titanium it will gall (like stainless will), and cause me more problems.

Just wondering what the opinions are on this.

Thanks.

Ray C.

[ErikW]

Building one of my blasters, my gunsmith told me a titanium strut wouldn't do anything noticeable for the trigger pull but I would hear it squeak. It doesn't.

I use Tri-Glides because I think they help.

Consider the EGW hard sear. My original trigger job is 4.5 years old, has never needed a tune-up (but later had Tri-Glide parts added), and is still my best feeling pistol trigger.

[rooster]

I have an Svi hammer and sear, and the tri glide trigger system in my limited gun. I just installed the parts, didn't touch a thing 2.25# trigger pull. That was a year ago. It has run perfect ever since. The tri glide for some reason makes a difference in pull. I tried installing a different sear spring and if I get the pull down to where the Svi is it follows to half cock, when I get to where it doesn't follow it is up to over 3#. Its good stuff. I use a 16# recoil spring and a 18# mainspring. I tried a titanium hammer strut and a mainspring cap it, was junk. they galled and my gun failed during a match because the parts were so galled up the slide could not recoil. good shooting

[bountyhunter]

I pulled my sear and hammer, and the sear nose is tweaked pretty good from the halfcock notch hitting it, Ray C.

That usually means the overtravel screw was adjusted too tight. Pulling the trigger allows the hammer to fall off the full cock notch, but the half cock (safety) notch usually extends a bit farther out by design to ensure capture if the hammer slips during thumb decocking. If the OT screw is that tight, the sear doesn't get far enough back to let the half cock notch fall by with no contact.

Point is, if the sear nose clips the hammer notch each time it tears it up. Always make sure when you set the overtravel screw that when the trigger is pulled, you can raise and lower the hammer manually without the sear touching anything.