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Postal Match #1


Flyin40

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Anyone?

I just shot it. 5 Runs: 9.47 sec, 9.11 sec, 8.34 sec, 8.55 sec, 8.15 sec

The only run that wasn't 100% was the 8.34 (dropped 2).

8.15 sec, 85pts = 10.42 HF

I shot left to right. Left side barricade T2 T1. While moving right , T4 is visible right away. Poppers 4-1 while slowy moving. Hit T3 transitioning faster as I get on the right side of the right barrier with out stepping out. Then T6 T5 and stop plate (had a little left foot lift action, but it's not a big stretch to the stop plate).

Edit: Flyin40 - I just saw your post. I was missing 45 degree elbows! LOL. and some barricades....

Well, I think it would be easier to hit T3 and T4 had I them set up right.

I agree, I like the flow of the match. A reload in the middle would have muffed it up a bit.

Edited by the4thpower3
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I set it up. Ran it about 8 times. Couldn't get my timer to pick up anything no matter where I put it :wacko: Then I broke my gun :angry: Fortunately, I have a CQB Master on "pre-order". I'll just have to break down and work out the timer deal.

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I have a CED7000 (plain). I tried to get it as close to the "finish" position as possible and turned the sensitivity as high as it would go but no joy.

I'm not sure if the gun will work or not. It was hitting about 3" high. Which on these targets is enough for a M. I was going to adjust the hop up. While taking it apart I heard a crack. The outer barrel snapped where it threads onto the barrel hood. The inner barrel is still ok. It may still shoot. I just haven't tried it. I have a feeling if it does it will be even less accurate because of the lockup.

My CQB Master should be here in a couple of weeks. I just have to work out the timing. I just feel a little hard pressed to buy a $100 timer set up when the gun is only $100. Seems counterproductive to cheap practice.

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I have not tried an arm band. That may be my next "solution". So far I'm using a stool/target stand/whatever I can find to get the timer as close to the muzzle where I plan to end up as I can.

I am/was using a Western Arms Wilson Combat 1911. It is full weight but plastic slide and uses 134a (uses grip weights instead of metal). I'm getting the WE-Tech CQB Master. It's full metal and also very much like my limited gun. I'm not sure what gas it will take. I assume if it uses propane it will be much louder which may help with the timer.

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I have a spare outer barrel I can send ya if you need it. I'm using an older CED 6000 I bought here on the forum. BAM's stop plate plugs right in and work great.

Lemme know if you want the outer barrel. ;)

I have a CED7000 (plain). I tried to get it as close to the "finish" position as possible and turned the sensitivity as high as it would go but no joy.

I'm not sure if the gun will work or not. It was hitting about 3" high. Which on these targets is enough for a M. I was going to adjust the hop up. While taking it apart I heard a crack. The outer barrel snapped where it threads onto the barrel hood. The inner barrel is still ok. It may still shoot. I just haven't tried it. I have a feeling if it does it will be even less accurate because of the lockup.

My CQB Master should be here in a couple of weeks. I just have to work out the timing. I just feel a little hard pressed to buy a $100 timer set up when the gun is only $100. Seems counterproductive to cheap practice.

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Thanks for the offer Jay. The outer barrel is ok. Well I guess it depends on how each model is built. On mine, the barrel hood and outer barrel are 2 pieces. The outer barrel screws onto threads on the front of the hood. Those threads are what snapped off. I found what might work on Evike. It's for a Western Arms SVI. But it may be close enough.

SVI Part at Evike The whole section of threads on the bottom pic is what snapped off.

If I can I'll get a pic. Maybe I should start another thread to get this out of the postal match thread.

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Thanks for the offer Jay. The outer barrel is ok. Well I guess it depends on how each model is built. On mine, the barrel hood and outer barrel are 2 pieces. The outer barrel screws onto threads on the front of the hood. Those threads are what snapped off. I found what might work on Evike. It's for a Western Arms SVI. But it may be close enough.

SVI Part at Evike The whole section of threads on the bottom pic is what snapped off.

If I can I'll get a pic. Maybe I should start another thread to get this out of the postal match thread.

Your welcome and yes, should be a new thread.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I haven't had a chance to set it up. After setting up the Ohio and Ipsc match, shooting, switching the stages, shooting then tearing down I decided to take a break from the gun. I'll probably just wait until next month to shoot but who knows. I still have a couple of weeks.

For next month I was planning on trying to post a couple stages. I'm going to try and make one more freestyle to allow some more freedom.

Flyin

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I haven't had a chance to set it up. After setting up the Ohio and Ipsc match, shooting, switching the stages, shooting then tearing down I decided to take a break from the gun. I'll probably just wait until next month to shoot but who knows. I still have a couple of weeks.

For next month I was planning on trying to post a couple stages. I'm going to try and make one more freestyle to allow some more freedom.

Flyin

Just a thought, but most people are limited with steel and able to work with more paper. I know steel is fun, but if they don't have the steel targets there will be less participation. Although you could use paper "steel"....just rambling I guess :lol:

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I haven't had a chance to set it up. After setting up the Ohio and Ipsc match, shooting, switching the stages, shooting then tearing down I decided to take a break from the gun. I'll probably just wait until next month to shoot but who knows. I still have a couple of weeks.

For next month I was planning on trying to post a couple stages. I'm going to try and make one more freestyle to allow some more freedom.

Flyin

Just a thought, but most people are limited with steel and able to work with more paper. I know steel is fun, but if they don't have the steel targets there will be less participation. Although you could use paper "steel"....just rambling I guess :lol:

Actually your right on. Most won't have steel so I already have said just print off the Poppers and its good enough. The idea is to get some more people shooting this so it can be fun over the winter. I don't mind dryfire but airsoft is much better. I'm just trying to watch the stage design for now so that the design of the stages don't exclude anyone from shooting.

I look at it like this. I'm using airsoft as a tool to help me in Uspsa. So I don't care how you get the stage setup or with what material just as long as its as close as possible.

Also I was looking around for metric targets but couldn't find any at the Aaps target scale. The 1/3 scale is to small. I'm not even sure what size the Aaps target are.

Flyin

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Those targets seem like a pricey (but cool) alternative to paper. Paper is cheaper (one of the main reasons to shoot airsoft!).

If I was running a more formal match, I'd want those targets, though.

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How about the target CED sells? They have metric and classic reduced size targets specifically for airsoft.

I love the Ced targets and thats what I use except for matches. The main reason I like them is you can use pasters and they don't tear like paper. I know I have put 500 bb's between 3 targets and didn't have any problem until I got a big hole in the Azone from so many perfect shots :surprise: LOL. I have 100 metric and 50 classic targets. Actually thats all I use now, even with my 22 open gun or my actual Open gun. I don't use any full size targets any longer.

I had thought about using them but I think that would knock alot of guys out. They would have to order them(they ship out of PA. for the USA and only took me 2 days to receive them after ordering). I think some people would just say forget it instead of ordering the targets.

Flyin

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