Chambers Chamfering (myself ...... !!!)

[sensei]

To Spook, (and the other guys too)

in a old post, i had seen that it isn't difficult to make this job in the chambers of my revo, i don't want to make a hard work, but a "little" chamfering yes, do you think is a job that required a Gun-smith ? because in Italy i don't think there are persons that make this particular job, ..................... in this case it is better i do myself !!!

.................... I had to born in the States ! ........ i think it every time !!!!

ciao.

[spook]

Sensei,

I've read in your previous posts that you shoot a .38 special. I don't know if you use moonclips. If you don't use any moonclips, it is important to chamfer the cylinder only, and not the ejector star (maybe only break the edges). The reason for this is that cases will get stuck under the star when you bevel it and load loose rounds (completely blowing your reload).

What I did was take a small round file (approx. 4mm diameter) and just break the edges round the chargehole. Continue until the cases go in easily. Just make sure you stick an empty case in one of the holes you're not chamfering, so that you support the star and do not break the small pins that hold the star in it's place.

I've found that only breaking the edges is enough. Completely funneling the holes makes no big difference.

Bottom line is: take it easy and don't take anything off the star if you're shooting loose rounds.

BTW, I don't live in the US. Fellow European here.

[sensei]

thank you Spook,

I have a 686 with the cilylinder machined, and then i can usually use the TK Custom moonclips.

I'll do this little job myself, the thing i want to know is if you did it slowly by hands, or if you was using an a elettric machine, and if you can explain to me what is "small round file" (my english it isn't very good), is a kind of abrasive paper, or a metallic tool? (excuse me but i don't want to hurt my revo).

I make this question, because i think that if i want to make a "ligth" job, it's better to do by hands (slow-slow), until i have the chambers i wish.

For my "inspiration" i take a look to the chambers of my 627 - 8 times Performance Center revo, ...... i would like the same result.

P.S.

I am really thinking to buy a 625 model ........... (!) ......... but anyway, i'll have to make the same chamfering job again !!!

ciao

[Skywalker]

Sensei,

you should have pointed this out in S.Elia last weekend at the Italian Nats, I would have explained it to you.

I suppose the chamfering of the 8-shot PC Revo you are referring to is what is commonly called "counterboring": it is a no-longer-made, really nice feature the SW revos had in the past golden days; it consists of a recess in each of the the cylinder chambers, that can house the brass rim, thus the inserted round will be totally enclosed (i.e. no more rims protruding from the bottom of the cylinder).

I would strongly discourage you to have this on a IPSC competition revo: if the counterbores are not cleaned often, you could not be able to fully seat the fresh ammo; moreover, they will hold back the spent brass during the ejection phase, thus you'll have to push real hard on the ejector rod.

Anyway, a file is "una lima" in italian, and it is a useful tool to be used with lots of care; always keep in mind the old machinist rule: "you can always file a little later easily, but you can't put filed metal in place again...".

Ciao.

[sensei]

always keep in mind the old machinist rule: "you can always file a little later easily, but you can't put filed metal in place again...".

eheheheh, ............................... i know, i know ................ i'll keep in mind !!!!

excuse me to everybody, but now i have to speak in ITALIAN, to my friend Skywalker67:

Ciao Luca, ti ringrazio per la traduzione (lima), lo supponevo, ma volevo essere sicuro, comunque il "chamfering" delle camere del tamburo a cui mi riferisco non corrisponde proprio al "counterboring", si può definire più correttamente, un leggero svasamento all'imbocco delle camere per favorire il cambio rapido, da effettuarsi con le lunette (moonclips), l'amico Spook mi accennava, praticamente di lilitarmi a toglere lo spigolo vivo, arrotondadolo solamente, senza effettuare un lavoro troppo pesante e "pericoloso".

Ho visionato moltissimi siti Internet di Gun-smith americani, dove nelle foto-gallery si possono ammirare tali lavori, ed a che prezzi (il chamfering te lo fanno, alcuni a 25-30 $, altri prendono $ 5 / ogni camera da svasare......) , macchinare un tamburo per far in modo che riceva le lunette, costa dai 70 a 80 $, ...... io per fare il mio ho speso 350 Euro !!!....................... ho detto tutto ! ciao

[spook]

Ciao Sensei,

By a small file, I mean, small and round (10 cm long and 3-4mm thick, shaped like a big toothpick). The reason the chamfering-jobs are so inexpensive in the US (or anywhere else for that matter,) is that it's an easy job to do.

I did it the slow way. Just take of a little, try it for a week. Take off some more, etc. You don't have to get it the same as on the 627 8-shot. A little smaller than that is OK.

Just be careful. There's not much that can go wrong with this (famous last words).

Ciao,

Björn

[sensei]

thank you very much, Bjorn

I'll do it using the maximum care, slow, slow ..................ciao.

[Sheldon]

You can always just get the chamfering kit from Brownell's. I got it to do my wife's S&W 586. Made it quick and easy. I read about doing it from somewhere, but cannot remember where........American Handgunner article or the Khuenhausen (sp?) S&W manual. I took the extractor off the cylinder. Then placed empty cases in the cylinders to mark where the rims of the cartridges were. Then I used the chamfer tool to remove the metal to just shy of the marks. I just used a file to break the corners on the edges on the extractor. My older extractor was in a star pattern and I see the newer ones are more square in shape.....I assume for ease of manufacture....and am not sure how or if you would bevel anything on it.